What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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89Suburban

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My wife's old car came with some 35% on the front windows, i loved it.
not factory, but who ever did it did a fantastic job.

i have not had too good of luck doing my own tint.
for some things its ok, but i suspect most of it is the crappy tools i use.

I have a "pre cut" kit for the ol vette, first attempt went poorly.
The cheap tool ended up tearing the tint if i press hard enough to get all of the fluid out, and if i press hard enough to not damage the tint, it looks like ass when it dries.
So the second set of precuts are sitting on the "Vette parts shelf" until i care again.
The heat gun idea would probably work, so far i have just been using the summer sun to fully cure it.


And i have a rattly window on the rear driver side of the hoe, it has been on the list to take it apart to see what's up with it.
usually there is some sort of felt lined adjuster, I'm hoping that's all there is.

I also saw signs that the rear door panel had been removed, and either broke a clip or just didn't put it back together right (gap).


It’s a pain in the ass for sure
 

iamdub

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Did my Big 3 today. Well, most of it.

Used some 1/0 welding cable, hecho en USA, no less:

img_5793-jpg.277621



Cut the insulation to fit the lug, but not all the way through to avoid cutting any copper:

img_5795-jpg.277622



Clamped the lug in Vice Grips and filled the cavity in front of where the copper would go with solder to remove air space and to secure the tip of the wire in the lug. Crimped with hydraulic tool, added the braided sleeve and secured with heavy-duty adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing:

img_5797-jpg.277623



Attached to the factory terminal for now. This one runs from the battery negative to the frame, under a strut mount nut:

img_5799-jpg.277624
 

iamdub

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This 6" one was too short to bother with the mesh, so it's all heat shrink:

img_5801-jpg.277625



It runs from the engine block (at the bolt for the power steering pump bracket) to the frame (under an engine mount bolt):

img_5802-jpg.277626



Copied the factory alternator-to-main fuse cable:

img_5805-jpg.277627



With very minor trimming of the mount on the firewall, the lug fit fine:

img_5807-jpg.277628



Followed the original routing and was even able to slip the terminal boot on after a little squirt of B'laster:

img_5808-jpg.277629





I want to replace the battery terminals with some marine post-to-stud adapters. I'll make the positive lead from the battery to the main fuse when I get those terminals. I'd like to make a starter wire as well.
 

Drwinlied

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Hooked up the ebc (tekonsha p3) and pulled the trailer to home depot to dial in the settings. Was hoping for more brake drama...but only drama came by way of crappy trailer ramp latch system that failed again while driving.
 

Rocket Man

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This 6" one was too short to bother with the mesh, so it's all heat shrink:

img_5801-jpg.277625



It runs from the engine block (at the bolt for the power steering pump bracket) to the frame (under an engine mount bolt):

img_5802-jpg.277626



Copied the factory alternator-to-main fuse cable:

img_5805-jpg.277627



With very minor trimming of the mount on the firewall, the lug fit fine:

img_5807-jpg.277628



Followed the original routing and was even able to slip the terminal boot on after a little squirt of B'laster:

img_5808-jpg.277629





I want to replace the battery terminals with some marine post-to-stud adapters. I'll make the positive lead from the battery to the main fuse when I get those terminals. I'd like to make a starter wire as well.
Nice work. I need to do that on my Silverado. I did the ones on the Beast, and used the HF crimping tool and soldered too, then returned the crimper lol. I like the idea of incorporating the braided cover. I made some fuel and pcv lines like that, used the heat shrink to finish the ends. It works great.
 

iamdub

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Nice work. I need to do that on my Silverado. I did the ones on the Beast, and used the HF crimping tool and soldered too, then returned the crimper lol. I like the idea of incorporating the braided cover. I made some fuel and pcv lines like that, used the heat shrink to finish the ends. It works great.

Thank ya. I got the crimper off Amazon. It's likely the same POS as what HF has. But, it should be fine for my very limited use. The braided sleeve adds a slight bit of protection, but is mainly for aesthetics. I'm on an ongoing project with overhauling safes and each kit includes a 10' length of this stuff that isn't used. I've been stashing it away for this and for interior wiring, like for the amps and speaker wires in the future. I don't know how well it'll hold up to underhood temps, but I'm keeping the cables as far away from the exhaust as possible. I forgot to check it after my drive this evening.
 

03_GMC

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Yep, same for both sides.


Hummer - 25847739

I gave Rock Auto my business tonight instead of Amazon. They were twenty cents less too! Won't be here in an hour but I won't need them until next week. All three OE mounts on the way.
Did your parts come in? Also does anyone know if these lower or raise the motor at all from the factory spot? I’ve got some clearance issues on the Speed Engineering long tubes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

swathdiver

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Did your parts come in? Also does anyone know if these lower or raise the motor at all from the factory spot? I’ve got some clearance issues on the Speed Engineering long tubes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sure did! Getting started this afternoon when it starts to cool off and the sun is on the other side of the house. If all goes to plan, we'll replace the transmission mount today and the motor mounts tomorrow.
 

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