What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[FrankU]

Greased Wheezer Saturday , oiled up the seats and cleaned them with Leatherique. Then a quick clay bar followed by Collinite Marine Aviation 870 wax for the outside.

 

[Doubeleive]

I hope it has a fuse at the battery end?

ya it has a 250amp fuse

 

[Rocket Man]

ya it has a 250amp fuse

Weld away then, you’re safe!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yes I was surprised too and it was a nice learning experience. Once you pop the door panel off and put the window down about half way there are two 10mm bolts pinching the window bottom to the regulator chassis. The glass is pinched between two pieces of metal with rubber tips like mini vises. I wish I had more time to take pics and do a really good write up. But I can say for sure after working on many vehicles over my lifetime this was the easiest to figure out. And was nice to do some homework in case a regulator takes a crap you have an idea what to do. The bottom of those windows have no metal frame attached FYI it is all glass and that is it.

The nasty part was cleaning the years of crap off the glass below where the seals are and the felts. I had to use a lot of rags and simple green to break through it and clean that all up. Anyway here are the after pics. All the window tint I ever tried to do on my own was very tough in the past trying to do it in the vehicle. Taking the glass out of the doors made a huge difference in labor IMHO. I have that crappy static cling 5% on the rear 3 glasses but it works for now.

Another tough part is trying to trim the film straight around the edges. Cut it within a few inches with a pair of scissors. Set it in place with the adhesive soap solution. Squeegee it out. Use a sharp razor to scrape along the edge of the glass to trim fit it. Once you start to get it set and drying out use a new sharp razor to do your 1/8" to 1/4" edge cut around the perimeter. Still hard as hell. Also used a heat gun to help dry it and cure it. Not perfect but good enough for me.

I have plans to put some 35% on the front row sides tomorrow. I am worried about that though because the factory tint hides a lot of the rookie blemishes and mistakes. I figure I will try the passenger side first and if it turns out too ****** I can back track.




View attachment 277525 View attachment 277526

When I tint my windows I always run thin black pinstripe along the upper edge after trimming it. Hasn't let me down yet.

 

[Just Fishing]

Yes I was surprised too and it was a nice learning experience. Once you pop the door panel off and put the window down about half way there are two 10mm bolts pinching the window bottom to the regulator chassis. The glass is pinched between two pieces of metal with rubber tips like mini vises. I wish I had more time to take pics and do a really good write up. But I can say for sure after working on many vehicles over my lifetime this was the easiest to figure out. And was nice to do some homework in case a regulator takes a crap you have an idea what to do. The bottom of those windows have no metal frame attached FYI it is all glass and that is it.

The nasty part was cleaning the years of crap off the glass below where the seals are and the felts. I had to use a lot of rags and simple green to break through it and clean that all up. Anyway here are the after pics. All the window tint I ever tried to do on my own was very tough in the past trying to do it in the vehicle. Taking the glass out of the doors made a huge difference in labor IMHO. I have that crappy static cling 5% on the rear 3 glasses but it works for now.

Another tough part is trying to trim the film straight around the edges. Cut it within a few inches with a pair of scissors. Set it in place with the adhesive soap solution. Squeegee it out. Use a sharp razor to scrape along the edge of the glass to trim fit it. Once you start to get it set and drying out use a new sharp razor to do your 1/8" to 1/4" edge cut around the perimeter. Still hard as hell. Also used a heat gun to help dry it and cure it. Not perfect but good enough for me.

I have plans to put some 35% on the front row sides tomorrow. I am worried about that though because the factory tint hides a lot of the rookie blemishes and mistakes. I figure I will try the passenger side first and if it turns out too ****** I can back track.




View attachment 277525 View attachment 277526

My wife's old car came with some 35% on the front windows, i loved it.
not factory, but who ever did it did a fantastic job.

i have not had too good of luck doing my own tint.
for some things its ok, but i suspect most of it is the crappy tools i use.

I have a "pre cut" kit for the ol vette, first attempt went poorly.
The cheap tool ended up tearing the tint if i press hard enough to get all of the fluid out, and if i press hard enough to not damage the tint, it looks like ass when it dries.
So the second set of precuts are sitting on the "Vette parts shelf" until i care again.
The heat gun idea would probably work, so far i have just been using the summer sun to fully cure it.


And i have a rattly window on the rear driver side of the hoe, it has been on the list to take it apart to see what's up with it.
usually there is some sort of felt lined adjuster, I'm hoping that's all there is.

I also saw signs that the rear door panel had been removed, and either broke a clip or just didn't put it back together right (gap).

 

[Bill 1960]

A little payback today for all the time and money invested.

 

[Sparksalot]

I couldn’t even begin to say what the eyebrow % is. You can’t see it or the gap for the camera mount from outside. This is theothertwin. They left the camera mount in place on thecopcar, but no eyebrow tint.

 

[Sparksalot]

A little payback today for all the time and money invested.
View attachment 277580

You need a suite of radio antennas to complete the look.

 

[89Suburban]

When I tint my windows I always run thin black pinstripe along the upper edge after trimming it. Hasn't let me down yet.

great tip I will have to remember that one.

 

[89Suburban]

I couldn’t even begin to say what the eyebrow % is. You can’t see it or the gap for the camera mount from outside. This is theothertwin. They left the camera mount in place on thecopcar, but no eyebrow tint.

View attachment 277586

I’m not a big fan of the eyebrow tint thing

 

[89Suburban]

My wife's old car came with some 35% on the front windows, i loved it.
not factory, but who ever did it did a fantastic job.

i have not had too good of luck doing my own tint.
for some things its ok, but i suspect most of it is the crappy tools i use.

I have a "pre cut" kit for the ol vette, first attempt went poorly.
The cheap tool ended up tearing the tint if i press hard enough to get all of the fluid out, and if i press hard enough to not damage the tint, it looks like ass when it dries.
So the second set of precuts are sitting on the "Vette parts shelf" until i care again.
The heat gun idea would probably work, so far i have just been using the summer sun to fully cure it.


And i have a rattly window on the rear driver side of the hoe, it has been on the list to take it apart to see what's up with it.
usually there is some sort of felt lined adjuster, I'm hoping that's all there is.

I also saw signs that the rear door panel had been removed, and either broke a clip or just didn't put it back together right (gap).

It’s a pain in the ass for sure

 

[Sparksalot]

I’m not a big fan of the eyebrow tint thing

It does cut the sun. If it were visible from the outside, I’d take it off in a heartbeat.

 

[iamdub]

Did my Big 3 today. Well, most of it.

Used some 1/0 welding cable, hecho en USA, no less:

Cut the insulation to fit the lug, but not all the way through to avoid cutting any copper:

Clamped the lug in Vice Grips and filled the cavity in front of where the copper would go with solder to remove air space and to secure the tip of the wire in the lug. Crimped with hydraulic tool, added the braided sleeve and secured with heavy-duty adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing:

Attached to the factory terminal for now. This one runs from the battery negative to the frame, under a strut mount nut:

 

[iamdub]

This 6" one was too short to bother with the mesh, so it's all heat shrink:

It runs from the engine block (at the bolt for the power steering pump bracket) to the frame (under an engine mount bolt):

Copied the factory alternator-to-main fuse cable:

With very minor trimming of the mount on the firewall, the lug fit fine:

Followed the original routing and was even able to slip the terminal boot on after a little squirt of B'laster:

I want to replace the battery terminals with some marine post-to-stud adapters. I'll make the positive lead from the battery to the main fuse when I get those terminals. I'd like to make a starter wire as well.

 

[Drwinlied]

Hooked up the ebc (tekonsha p3) and pulled the trailer to home depot to dial in the settings. Was hoping for more brake drama...but only drama came by way of crappy trailer ramp latch system that failed again while driving.

 

[Fless]

Brake drama can be had by exercising the lever underneath it, locking up the trailer brakes. Do I need say the trailer load should be secured? LOL

 

[Rocket Man]

This 6" one was too short to bother with the mesh, so it's all heat shrink:

It runs from the engine block (at the bolt for the power steering pump bracket) to the frame (under an engine mount bolt):

Copied the factory alternator-to-main fuse cable:

With very minor trimming of the mount on the firewall, the lug fit fine:

Followed the original routing and was even able to slip the terminal boot on after a little squirt of B'laster:

I want to replace the battery terminals with some marine post-to-stud adapters. I'll make the positive lead from the battery to the main fuse when I get those terminals. I'd like to make a starter wire as well.

Nice work. I need to do that on my Silverado. I did the ones on the Beast, and used the HF crimping tool and soldered too, then returned the crimper lol. I like the idea of incorporating the braided cover. I made some fuel and pcv lines like that, used the heat shrink to finish the ends. It works great.

 

[iamdub]

Nice work. I need to do that on my Silverado. I did the ones on the Beast, and used the HF crimping tool and soldered too, then returned the crimper lol. I like the idea of incorporating the braided cover. I made some fuel and pcv lines like that, used the heat shrink to finish the ends. It works great.

Thank ya. I got the crimper off Amazon. It's likely the same POS as what HF has. But, it should be fine for my very limited use. The braided sleeve adds a slight bit of protection, but is mainly for aesthetics. I'm on an ongoing project with overhauling safes and each kit includes a 10' length of this stuff that isn't used. I've been stashing it away for this and for interior wiring, like for the amps and speaker wires in the future. I don't know how well it'll hold up to underhood temps, but I'm keeping the cables as far away from the exhaust as possible. I forgot to check it after my drive this evening.

 

[03_GMC]

Yep, same for both sides.


Hummer - 25847739

I gave Rock Auto my business tonight instead of Amazon. They were twenty cents less too! Won't be here in an hour but I won't need them until next week. All three OE mounts on the way.

Did your parts come in? Also does anyone know if these lower or raise the motor at all from the factory spot? I’ve got some clearance issues on the Speed Engineering long tubes.


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[swathdiver]

Did your parts come in? Also does anyone know if these lower or raise the motor at all from the factory spot? I’ve got some clearance issues on the Speed Engineering long tubes.


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Sure did! Getting started this afternoon when it starts to cool off and the sun is on the other side of the house. If all goes to plan, we'll replace the transmission mount today and the motor mounts tomorrow.