2007 Tahoe 5.3l AFM DOD delete thread

[Taheezy_88]

The tubing should fit the same. They just moved the port.

For the pulley, can’t you put a socket in there as a spacer?

I already order a pulley that was recommended off a YouTube vid. I was using the Chrysler pulley from oriellys cause the other one they offered was total shit.

 

[Taheezy_88]

Anyone have a part number for pushrods?

edit: found them

 

[Taheezy_88]

Still waiting for parts guys. Have pulley and water pump off. Removed 8 10mm bolts on the timing cover but it isn't budging and I don't wanna have to pry more. Would two oil pan bolts be bolted into the timing cover? Chilton only refers to 8 bolts which are removed.

 

[1BADI5]

As for crank placement before or after removing cam is irrelevant as you have the heads off and therefore the valves aren't there to be opened or closed and you are replacing the cam.

The dot on the crank gear should be at the 12 o'clock position and cylinder 1 should be at TDC.

And the dot on the cam gear would be at the 6 o'clock position. And with the cam having the pin on it, its easy peasy

 

[1BADI5]

Still waiting for parts guys. Have pulley and water pump off. Removed 8 10mm bolts on the timing cover but it isn't budging and I don't wanna have to pry more. Would two oil pan bolts be bolted into the timing cover? Chilton only refers to 8 bolts which are removed.

View attachment 272849 View attachment 272850

Yes, there are 2 bolt that go through the oil pan up into the bottom of the timing cover; you have to remove them.

Also, you'll probably want to remove the crank bolt to remove the cover, if not it will/could damage the crank seal..........but I will recommend replacing that since you're in there or the new cover should have one in it already.

 

[Taheezy_88]

Thanks for the quick reply. I just removed the bolts. New crank bolt on the way already order. I have the old one in to get back to TDC.

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[1BADI5]

Thanks for the quick reply. I just removed the bolts. New crank bolt on the way already order. I have the old one in to get back to TDC.

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No problem!

A bunch of us have done this in the last 6 months, so plenty of experience on here to assist

 

[Taheezy_88]

Okay oil pickup tube bolt. Do I have to drop the oil pan? That's a tight fit any advice?

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[1BADI5]

I dropped my pan.

Is your truck 2wd or 4wd?

 

[Taheezy_88]

4wd.

Cam bolt removal? Chilton has no reference to removal. Searching online now

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[Taheezy_88]

.

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[1BADI5]

4wd.

Cam bolt removal? Chilton has no reference to removal. Searching online now

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Yeah dropping the pan on a 4wd is not fun, but its a ***** to get that bolt if you don't

I think that cam bolt was a 21mm, i just zipped that out with the impact

 

[Taheezy_88]

When I went to pop the cam bolt the whole cam and crankshaft rotated so I stopped right there.

edit: ended up using an air impact wrench

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[kbuskill]

When I went to pop the cam bolt the whole cam and crankshaft rotated so I stopped right there.

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Have you already pulled the heads?

If not, have you already pulled the spark plugs?

If so reinstall the plugs and use the impact.

They make a tool that installs in place of the starter that locks the flywheel in place so it can't rotate. That is how I did mine.

Looks like this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143422296740

 

[iamdub]

Okay oil pickup tube bolt. Do I have to drop the oil pan? That's a tight fit any advice?

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You can drop the pan and let it rest on the cross member and front axle. This would give you just enough space to use a wrench on the bolt to turn it a flat at a time then finger it out and in. You can snake a new oil pan gasket in there before you bolt the pickup to the new oil pump. DON'T FORGET THE RTV AT THE FOUR POINTS.

 

[Taheezy_88]

Update*
Got the oil pan dropped enough to pull oil pump. I still need to drop it fully but will get back to that towards the end of the rebuild.

Cam bolt off
Sprocket /timing chain off.
Old camshaft out.

Do I use sealer on any bolt and if so which one?

Torque specs on everything that needs to be torque or a link would be greatly appreciated thx
Cam thrust plate

3 Cam bolts

Valley cover

Harmonic balancer

Head bolts

Exhaust manifold bolts

Intake manifold bolts

Oil pump?
timing cover?

 

[Geotrash]

Update*
Got the oil pan dropped enough to pull oil pump. I still need to drop it fully but will get back to that towards the end of the rebuild.

Cam bolt off
Sprocket /timing chain off.
Old camshaft out.

Official I'm in the rebuild stage now.
IMPORTANT KEY INFORMATION ON REBUILD PLEASE let me know

Do I use sealer on any bolt and if so which one?

Torque specs on everything that needs to be torque or a link would be greatly appreciated thx


Tomorrow I will install the new cam, cam retention plate, sprocket, chain and oil pump.

I used a Haynes manual. There are torque specs for everything at the beginning of each chapter. Alldatadiy.com also has similar info.

 

[Taheezy_88]

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5191/~/gen.-4,-aluminum-block-torque-specs

I dug this up for torque specs.

 

[Geotrash]

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5191/~/gen.-4,-aluminum-block-torque-specs

I dug this up for torque specs.

Good find. If you're using any ARP bolts though, follow their printed instructions to the letter, including using their thread lube and pay close attention to the orientation of any washers so that the taper on the bore faces the radius on the head of the bolt. Lots of people miss that last detail.

 

[Taheezy_88]

Thanks! I went ahead and removed the oil pan completely instead today. There is a small line that runs on top of the rack and pinion thats a pain to clear i had to drop the differential to get just enough room.. What a pain in the ass!

Sunday ill start putting everything back together. Still need to send me ecm out