Frustrating Camber Issues

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cfmistry

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So after doing a 3/4" Belltech drop kit I had the truck aligned. Even with the 2* camber bushings pressed into the UCAs, I can't get any better than -1.5* of camber (on each side). That's not even in the normal range. On top of that the caster is WAY off, like 7*, but I don't care about that too much. Toe aligns correctly (thankfully) so tire wear shouldn't be too bad.

Do you guys a camber of -1.5* is going to cause any major issues? I'm kind of fed up and don't want to throw more money into this project. For a 3/4" drop this is causing me a lot of hell. And all my control arms are new BTW (nothing bent)!

Thanks,
Cyrus
 

OR VietVet

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kbuskill

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So after doing a 3/4" Belltech drop kit I had the truck aligned. Even with the 2* camber bushings pressed into the UCAs, I can't get any better than -1.5* of camber (on each side). That's not even in the normal range. On top of that the caster is WAY off, like 7*, but I don't care about that too much. Toe aligns correctly (thankfully) so tire wear shouldn't be too bad.

Do you guys a camber of -1.5* is going to cause any major issues? I'm kind of fed up and don't want to throw more money into this project. For a 3/4" drop this is causing me a lot of hell. And all my control arms are new BTW (nothing bent)!

Thanks,
Cyrus

-1.5° camber will eat the inside of the tires. Alignment specs call for 0°- 0.5° negative camber.

Not sure which drop kit you have. Did it come with drop spindles?

The 2° bushings aren't needed if you are using drop spindles.

My 4/6 dropped Burb aligns perfectly with just the 1° camber plates.

My guess is the bushings weren't installed in the correct orientation.
 
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cfmistry

cfmistry

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I do not have spindles. This is via "drop struts" entirely in the front and 4" drop coils in the rear. All Belltech stuff, from a kit (738SP) that includes the eccentric camber bushings.

I had the shop send me a pic of the bushings before install, and they are correct. You can verify that below.

Below is my latest alignment printout. The guy at the shop said that negative camber doesn't wear tires much -- toe is more responsible for that. Not sure on that? Regardless, that much red on my printout doesn't sit well with me.

Cyrus
Alignment.jpg
Eccentric bushings.jpg
View attachment 267749
View attachment 267750
 

OR VietVet

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The alignment guy is mistaken and should not be saying that. He is saying that because he went as far as he could with adjustments and wants the rig off the alignment rack.

Too much negative and positive camber WILL wear tires, period. So can too much toe in and toe out. That is alignments 101.
 

kbuskill

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I do not have spindles. This is via "drop struts" entirely in the front and 4" drop coils in the rear. All Belltech stuff, from a kit (738SP) that includes the eccentric camber bushings.

I had the shop send me a pic of the bushings before install, and they are correct. You can verify that below.

Below is my latest alignment printout. The guy at the shop said that negative camber doesn't wear tires much -- toe is more responsible for that. Not sure on that? Regardless, that much red on my printout doesn't sit well with me.

Cyrus
View attachment 267751
View attachment 267752
View attachment 267749
View attachment 267750

I'm not sure what to tell you.

I am curious how you get 3" of drop out of 2" drop struts?

The Belltech struts are good for 2" of drop with no rings installed. So to get 3" you would need shorter springs or a dropped spring perch to get the other inch. Or I suppose you could mount the struts below the lower control arms, with grade 9 hardware, and then set the struts for a 1" drop.

My truck had 2" spindles and I had the drop struts set at 2" of drop, zero rings on the struts, and I only have the 1° camber plates.

If you take out my drop spindles then I would have effectively had a 2" strut drop and the 1° camber plates had plenty of adjustment.

I would perhaps take it to a different alignment shop and see what they say.
 
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cfmistry

cfmistry

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The alignment guy is mistaken and should not be saying that. He is saying that because he went as far as he could with adjustments and wants the rig off the alignment rack.

Too much negative and positive camber WILL wear tires, period. So can too much toe in and toe out. That is alignments 101.

Thank you for clarifying. He seemed like a knowledgeable and trustworthy guy so I made the mistake of believing him! He actually told me that well before the truck went on the rack... I think he was trying to say that most people blame camber when in actuality excessive toe is worse on tires. Could that be true? Anyways from my knowledge of other cars (mostly sportscars) it seems that -1.5* is not too crazy.

I'm not sure what to tell you.

I am curious how you get 3" of drop out of 2" drop struts?

The Belltech struts are good for 2" of drop with no rings installed. So to get 3" you would need shorter springs or a dropped spring perch to get the other inch. Or I suppose you could mount the struts below the lower control arms, with grade 9 hardware, and then set the struts for a 1" drop.

My truck had 2" spindles and I had the drop struts set at 2" of drop, zero rings on the struts, and I only have the 1° camber plates.

If you take out my drop spindles then I would have effectively had a 2" strut drop and the 1° camber plates had plenty of adjustment.

I would perhaps take it to a different alignment shop and see what they say.

Belltech's site does state they are a 2" drop but their newest instructions state it is a 3" drop for the NNBS. I emailed them and they confirmed. I used 0 rings and sure enough it dropped it 2-15/16". Maybe they changed their design recently?

I am aware the spindles keep the geometry more similar to alignment is easier, but I needed new shocks so I tried to kill 2 birds with one stone.

The camber plates are the ones you need to cut the upper control arm mounts for correct? Seems like a ton of work I don't want to do. Ugh.

Thanks to both of you guys for helping me! Much appreciated.
 

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The toe out or in, depending on the amount, can wear the tire quicker because the tire is pointed wrong and will scruff the tread of quick. A camber problem is leaned wrong and puts more weight on that particular area and will typically take longer to show the wear.
 
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