What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Sparksalot
Elite Member
Lmao!
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
If your serious, i found the paper with my chicken scratches on it.
My hand writing looks like my doctors...
I'll happily take a picture of it and post, but only if your actually serious.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
IIRC, someone mentioned hard metal heater hose T lines available somewhere?
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Also the first time in a few years that my press has done anything other than flatten things to perfection.
Nice to have it earn it's keep.
When i bought it, cranking that handle for what felt like an hour to get it in a position i wanted.
I said f this and bought the 20 ton pneumatic hydraulic jack and adapted it.
I have flattened beer cans to perfection, pennies (making my own washers), etc.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html (was like $89 with a coupon at the time)
Plus
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html (was somewhere around $120 with coupon at the time)
Plus
Equals:
Nice to have it earn it's keep.
When i bought it, cranking that handle for what felt like an hour to get it in a position i wanted.
I said f this and bought the 20 ton pneumatic hydraulic jack and adapted it.
I have flattened beer cans to perfection, pennies (making my own washers), etc.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html (was like $89 with a coupon at the time)
Plus
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html (was somewhere around $120 with coupon at the time)
Plus
Equals:
gruvenparts sells them, they are machined aluminum I think
iamdub
Full Access Member
There are some from Gruven for $80 each (about $175 shipped) and some from JTR/Stealth Conversions for $70 shipped for a pair. I have the Stealth Conversions Ts. Pics, etc. in my build thread here.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Throttle learn done, fixed the issue.
From the FSM,
With Scan Tool - Reset Procedure
Ignition ON, engine OFF, with a scan tool, perform the Idle Learn Reset in Module Setup.
Start the engine, monitor the TB Idle Airflow Compensation parameter. The TB Idle Airflow Compensation value should equal 0 percent and the engine should be idling at a normal idle speed.
Clear the DTCs and return to the diagnostic that referred you here.
Without Scan Tool - Learn Procedure
Important: Do NOT perform this procedure if DTCs are set. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle.
Start and idle the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
With a scan tool, monitor desired and actual RPM.
The ECM will start to learn the new idle cells and Desired RPM should start to decrease.
Ignition OFF for 60 seconds.
Start and idle the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
After the 3 minute run time the engine should be idling normal.
Important: During the drive cycle the check engine light may come on with idle speed DTCs. If idle speed codes are set, clear codes so the ECM can continue to learn.
⇒ If the engine idle speed has not been learned the vehicle will need to be driven at speeds above 70 km/h (44 mph) with several decelerations and extended idles.
After the drive cycle, the engine should be idling normally.
⇒ If the engine idle speed has not been learned, turn OFF the ignition for 60 seconds and repeat step 6.
Once the engine speed has returned to normal, clear DTCs and return to the diagnostic that referred you here.
---
I like the "with the scan tool procedure" best, took like 5 seconds.
From the FSM,
With Scan Tool - Reset Procedure
Ignition ON, engine OFF, with a scan tool, perform the Idle Learn Reset in Module Setup.
Start the engine, monitor the TB Idle Airflow Compensation parameter. The TB Idle Airflow Compensation value should equal 0 percent and the engine should be idling at a normal idle speed.
Clear the DTCs and return to the diagnostic that referred you here.
Without Scan Tool - Learn Procedure
Important: Do NOT perform this procedure if DTCs are set. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle.
Start and idle the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
With a scan tool, monitor desired and actual RPM.
The ECM will start to learn the new idle cells and Desired RPM should start to decrease.
Ignition OFF for 60 seconds.
Start and idle the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
After the 3 minute run time the engine should be idling normal.
Important: During the drive cycle the check engine light may come on with idle speed DTCs. If idle speed codes are set, clear codes so the ECM can continue to learn.
⇒ If the engine idle speed has not been learned the vehicle will need to be driven at speeds above 70 km/h (44 mph) with several decelerations and extended idles.
After the drive cycle, the engine should be idling normally.
⇒ If the engine idle speed has not been learned, turn OFF the ignition for 60 seconds and repeat step 6.
Once the engine speed has returned to normal, clear DTCs and return to the diagnostic that referred you here.
---
I like the "with the scan tool procedure" best, took like 5 seconds.
If your serious, i found the paper with my chicken scratches on it.
My hand writing looks like my doctors...
I'll happily take a picture of it and post, but only if your actually serious.
Serious as a heart attack.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Sorry, too lazy to write that crap out again.
And too lazy to even go back to GM parts direct to look it up again.
Sorry, too lazy to write that crap out again.
And too lazy to even go back to GM parts direct to look it up again.
View attachment 266757
I appreciate it, I just took a pic of your pic to keep on my phone. Did it fit the valve cover nice and snug? And the cap fit fine? I have been having some real issues with finding replacements that are worth a shit. The last one I got flops around in the valve cover hole and leaks and my factory cap would not fit into it so I had to jerry rig a rubber hole plug to fit it until I get this shit fixed right. Kinda pissing me off because you got to pull the cover to mess with these damn things.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
It's a little loose fitting, but i did take my cross buff into the hole.
Does not have any side to side movement, just rotating.
To explain better, rotates to hit the the little lock tab/aluminum nub.
No leaking, and I replaced the seal/O-ring with the install.
I did grease that o-ring up pretty good, so i assume it will tighten up with age.
If all else fails, and it bugs me, I'll probably just glue the fker solid.
It's a little loose fitting, but i did take my cross buff into the hole.
Does not have any side to side movement, just rotating.
To explain better, rotates to hit the the little lock tab/aluminum nub.
No leaking, and I replaced the seal/O-ring with the install.
I did grease that o-ring up pretty good, so i assume it will tighten up with age.
If all else fails, and it bugs me, I'll probably just glue the fker solid.
Mine is brand new and new oring ant it slops around pretty bad like it tilts out and opens a big gap. I had to use fkn silicone adhesive to try nd seal it and keep it in place until I get it fixed. GRRRR...
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I have this sealant that's used for crankcases (2 strokes), dries pretty quick and super solid.
Looks like i bought it locally as it's not in my Order history.
That stuff would seal that fker on there solid.
Even after the fact... lol
Looks like i bought it locally as it's not in my Order history.
That stuff would seal that fker on there solid.
Even after the fact... lol
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
And my garage heater decided to take a shit.
I'm just glad it waited until after the hoe was out of the garage.
It even warmed the garage this morning for the tech2 action.
think it's the thermo coupler, research time...
I'm just glad it waited until after the hoe was out of the garage.
It even warmed the garage this morning for the tech2 action.
think it's the thermo coupler, research time...
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Changing the plugs and wires on thecopcar. Started with the even side. Number 4 was a pain to get the wire off. Broke that wire then she bit me.
plug is #6.
plug is #6.
Shit man last time I did mine at least half of the wires broke off like that inside of the heat shield sleeve things. Do you have those? I don't see them in the pics. I used dielectric grease on the new wires hoping that would keep them from welding themselves to the fkn plugs again.
I used special spark plug wire pliers and long reach pliers and they still fkn broke off.
And what I mean is when they break off the boot comes off but the metal clip that snaps onto the ***** on the plug rips out of the wire and stays on the plug tip.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
And #8.
