High Mileage Invest Money Or Not?

[Aeterna]

I have a 2007 Tahoe Z71 4x4 with 185k miles. Its rough around the edges but everything works. Ive put 20k miles on it in the last year so it is still reliable and runs fine

my question is, I am debating on putting 3-4k into it to get some of these items fixed or do I just let it keep leaking/slowly breaking down. Or, do I sell it and get something else. I imagine some of you have crossed this bridge at one time or another and curious if you regretted investing the money or vice versa.

current issues:
-oil pan leak
-rear main cover leak (i think)
-front diff leaks out of both axles
-exhaust manifold small leak (both sides)
-Rack and Pinion Leak and worn mounting bushing
-driver seat front tilt doesnt work (might not fix)


Additional Items I would like to have done:
-install magnaflow 18” muffler
-Install transmission cooler (going to tow boat and toys)
-maybe install new driver seat with heat and cooling not sure the cost
-replace ujoints as I think they are still factory.


Parts I have already replaced:
-rotors all around
-both front wheel hubs
-both front cv axles
-both tie rod ends
-driver motor mount
-master cylinder
-valve cover gasket passenger
-valve cover (new design) driver side
-passenger brake caliper
-windshield
-belts
-plugs
-both front upper control arms
-front struts
-rear shocks
-headunit with apple carplay
-fresh ac recharge
-battery

 

[Derick]

That's a tough call. I've been pondering over big expenditures myself. A lot of the guys here will talk about payments, and blah blah blah its cheaper to spend more now than have a payment. But at the end of the day you still have a 10+ year old car. While the parts you just fixed are going to be good for awhile, your motor may gernade, and thats another 5k. So I really dont know what the right answer is. I've got mine listed, if it sells, it sells. If it doesnt, I'm daily driving it, so whatever on that I guess. You definitely have some doozy repairs there, so I'm curious to see what you decide on. If you/someone is getting in there for an oil pan gasket replacement, have the oil pump pickup tube oring replace at the same time.

 

[Aeterna]

Thanks for the tip on the Oring.

the argument for selling would be to get something else. But to do that and not be on the hook for repairs would be to get something that still has quite a bit of warranty left. A comparable vehicle like that is 10 times as much as the repairs im looking at. So its an interesting argument.

just wondered how others have faired if they crossed the bridge.

 

[79jasper]

I would say depends, are you doing the work yourself? Or having a shop do it? Save a ton of money doing it yourself.
Buying newer doesn't guarantee you won't have repairs shortly either.
We choose paying cash for a higher mileage older model to save money in the long run. Sure beats having a car payment, if/when any repairs do come up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Aeterna]

Most of the work I listed as already done is stuff I did, but fixing the leaks I am going to pay a shop to do. I dont want to invest all that time and then turn around and it still leak. Would rather pay for it and have a little warranty in case they did a shotty job.

but yeah that is the argument, car payment vs invest a few grand to keep what I currently have healthy.

 

[OR VietVet]

Other thing to consider is you have a used vehicle and know all about it. You buy another used rig you have to start figuring it all out as to what it needs and deal with that. Buy new and spend a lot of money and have the payments unless you can pay up front. If the one you have suits your needs, it may be the best course but if you just want something else, well that is your call.

Some of your additional items are just because you want them but not needed for the rig to stay on the road.

 

[Aeterna]

Im not really wanting something else, I love this Tahoe ive taken it all over the country. Just trying to gauge is others have regretted dumping money into their high mileage rides.

 

[89Suburban]

I'd fix it and keep it.

On the front seat tilt, if you hear the motor trying to move but it doesn't, it may just be a jammed corkscrew. Pop the seat cushion up and use a grab wrench to pop it loose and lube it back up and run it up and down through it's full range. Do the same for the rear tilt and forward/reverse travel screws while you are in there. I had both my tilt motors do this and fixed them.

 

[Aeterna]

I'd fix it and keep it.

On the front seat tilt, if you hear the motor trying to move but it doesn't, it may just be a jammed corkscrew. Pop the seat cushion up and use a grab wrench to pop it loose and lube it back up and run it up and down through it's full range. Do the same for the rear tilt and forward/reverse travel screws while you are in there. I had both my tilt motors do this and fixed them.

Badass ill give that a shot! The motor makes noise just clicks but nothing happens. Ill dig into that soon thanks. Is there any special grease I should use?

 

[89Suburban]

Badass ill give that a shot! The motor makes noise just clicks but nothing happens. Ill dig into that soon thanks. Is there any special grease I should use?

I just used sparing amounts of syl glyde. Also a good time to have a shop vac handy to clean up under there. Especially if you have an ass blown seat cushion like I did.

 

[avalonandl]

3-4 k is about 6 months of payments on a new suv.....with 66 more to go...

you will get better use from the shop fixing all those yhings at once. Find a good shop that knows what they are doing and pay a little more.

 

[Aeterna]

3-4 k is about 6 months of payments on a new suv.....with 66 more to go...

you will get better use from the shop fixing all those yhings at once. Find a good shop that knows what they are doing and pay a little more.

Thanks, the place I am using has been around for many years and has great reviews. Once I get a quote for all the work i will see about uploading it here.

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks, the place I am using has been around for many years and has great reviews. Once I get a quote for all the work i will see about uploading it here.

Please do and if they give you more estimates for anything not on your list, please list the reasons "why" the shop says these items are needed. Not just because they are "bad".

 

[OR VietVet]

Out here in the PNW we don't have to deal with rust so we can see an advantage for keeping up the older rig as long as it meets our needs.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

it wouldn't be that bad to invest the money into our trucks simply because they last. it's not unheard of to have a truck in to 200k+ mile range it's almost normal lol

 

[vendo]

I just bought a 95 tahoe 2 dr from fla,lot of work was already done on this,174k miles on it..i like the 2 dr models..new trucks cost way to much for me...keep the old ones going is a lot cheaper..unless you have tons of money..

 

[pcwizard2600]

Been there, done that. I live in a rust state, and the only reason I got rid of that last two vehicles were due to the rust. '01 Silverado and '02 Avalanche, both with over 260k on them and they ran like new still. However when the frame rusts or other parts that make it almost unrepairable, then it is time to let go. New and even later model used are priced so ridiculously high that I personally cannot justify the payments.

 

[Linderov]

I'm at 216K in my "02 so I think i crossed that bridge! As others said, the big question is if you like it. There are kits and aftermarket stuff that make it easy to fix these vehicles. And mine is still fun and easy to drive. And looks good because wax is cheap!

Downsides: I found sometimes there's days (3 weeks while my husband replaced ALL the brake lines) when it's being repaired. For me, that's not a problem as I have another car.

I find repairs can happen in clusters. Some people will say that's a sign- "its toast will just break down all the time now"- but that's not true. I have clusters of issues followed by months and years of relative peace.

Also, even the best repair shop will make a mistake: bad part, poor install. I had to accept that my Dealer whiffed on a differential replacement. Such things happen.

If, like me, you're pleased as punch to show off your truck to your friends and talk about all the trips and jobs you did with it, you may as well fix it. These trucks will go 300K, just check whats for sale out there.

Also now is a bad time to buy a new truck. Sales are down but prices are up. Wait for gas prices to spike or electric trucks come out to compete with the ICEs, to bring prices down.

 

[SUP SR]

3-4 k is about 6 months of payments on a new suv.....with 66 more to go...

you will get better use from the shop fixing all those yhings at once. Find a good shop that knows what they are doing and pay a little more.

 

[SUP SR]

I have made the decision to keep repairing my 2002 Z71 Tahoe with over 260k miles. Even if someday I need to replace the engine, it still makes sense vs the cost of even a late model used Tahoe. I have owned it since new and it still runs like new. Have replaced the transmission, water pump, alternator, front wheel bearings, tie rods, upper and lower ball joints. Added a TruCool 40k transmission cooler and Airaid air intake. Lifted the front 2" using Rough Country keys. Rebuilt the driver's seat, changed all interior lights to LEDs. Replaced the knock sensors by bolting the new ones to the outside of the engine (instead of below the intake manifold).Swapped the instrument cluster with a 2001 GMC Yukon's with a transmission temp guage.

BTW, I tow a 6,000 boat just fine.