What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[iamdub]

Washed it then removed the roof rack then washed the roof again.

I didn't know the threaded inserts stuck up as high as they do. The caps I painted aren't gonna be nearly as low-profile and clean as I was expecting. By my tolerances, this is HUGE:

I cut the stem off a plain, non-painted cap to test. I planned to apply a thin layer of urethane to seal them and fill what I thought would be a really thin gap between the cap and roof. This gap is about the thickness of a nickel, so the sealant would really show:

And these are definitely NOT blind holes!:

Anyone have any suggestions for removing the footprints? I only have polishing compound and it's not abrasive enough. Should I get rubbing compound or is there something better suited?

I'm REALLY tempted to just put the rack back on until I can regroup with a better game plan. For now, I put the screws back in with some black Permatex under the head and ran them all the way in.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Put in an OEM USB port in the front center stack, now I have clean phone charging options. I have an idea for a wireless charger, but not sure if I want to cut up my console insert just yet

 

[qcon]

Added a Black Friday light bar to the push bar. Also found a used Diablosport s1000 module for $50. I read that’s it’s basically a rebranded Range AFM. The module really woke up the Suburban and acceleration and ride feels much more responsive and smooth. I am noticing a decreased fuel economy, but it could just be me having more fun stepping on the gas pedal...

 

[89Suburban]

Washed it then removed the roof rack then washed the roof again.

I didn't know the threaded inserts stuck up as high as they do. The caps I painted aren't gonna be nearly as low-profile and clean as I was expecting. By my tolerances, this is HUGE:

View attachment 236598

A tube of silicone is so much cheaper and better looking.


I cut the stem off a plain, non-painted cap to test. I planned to apply a thin layer of urethane to seal them and fill what I thought would be a really thin gap between the cap and roof. This gap is about the thickness of a nickel, so the sealant would really show:

View attachment 236599


And these are definitely NOT blind holes!:

View attachment 236600

View attachment 236601

Anyone have any suggestions for removing the footprints? I only have polishing compound and it's not abrasive enough. Should I get rubbing compound or is there something better suited?

View attachment 236602


I'm REALLY tempted to just put the rack back on until I can regroup with a better game plan. For now, I put the screws back in with some black Permatex under the head and ran them all the way in.

Added a Black Friday light bar to the push bar. Also found a used Diablosport s1000 module for $50. I read that’s it’s basically a rebranded Range AFM. The module really woke up the Suburban and acceleration and ride feels much more responsive and smooth. I am noticing a decreased fuel economy, but it could just be me having more fun stepping on the gas pedal...
View attachment 236612 View attachment 236610 View attachment 236611

bad ass looking rig!!

 

[wjburken]

Washed it then removed the roof rack then washed the roof again.

I didn't know the threaded inserts stuck up as high as they do. The caps I painted aren't gonna be nearly as low-profile and clean as I was expecting. By my tolerances, this is HUGE:

View attachment 236598


I cut the stem off a plain, non-painted cap to test. I planned to apply a thin layer of urethane to seal them and fill what I thought would be a really thin gap between the cap and roof. This gap is about the thickness of a nickel, so the sealant would really show:

View attachment 236599


And these are definitely NOT blind holes!:

View attachment 236600

View attachment 236601

Anyone have any suggestions for removing the footprints? I only have polishing compound and it's not abrasive enough. Should I get rubbing compound or is there something better suited?

View attachment 236602


I'm REALLY tempted to just put the rack back on until I can regroup with a better game plan. For now, I put the screws back in with some black Permatex under the head and ran them all the way in.

Wow!

Can you put one of your extra tree rivets in a drill and spin it while holding it up against a file to turn it down to the same diameter of the insert? Would that look any better?

That the inserts aren’t blind is a surprising discovery to say the least.

 

[BG1988]

Most looked like this :/View attachment 236582View attachment 236583

With the exception of this one: View attachment 236591

View attachment 236592

Looks like I might have some serious issues on my hands.... And yes, that's oil

PCV valve sucking up some oil?

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Added a Black Friday light bar to the push bar. Also found a used Diablosport s1000 module for $50. I read that’s it’s basically a rebranded Range AFM. The module really woke up the Suburban and acceleration and ride feels much more responsive and smooth. I am noticing a decreased fuel economy, but it could just be me having more fun stepping on the gas pedal...
View attachment 236612 View attachment 236610 View attachment 236611

rod vault????

 

[DaRosa218]

That's what I'm thinking, going to order a new valve cover with the updated PCV system and add a oil catch can

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Rocket Man]

Washed it then removed the roof rack then washed the roof again.

I didn't know the threaded inserts stuck up as high as they do. The caps I painted aren't gonna be nearly as low-profile and clean as I was expecting. By my tolerances, this is HUGE:

View attachment 236598


I cut the stem off a plain, non-painted cap to test. I planned to apply a thin layer of urethane to seal them and fill what I thought would be a really thin gap between the cap and roof. This gap is about the thickness of a nickel, so the sealant would really show:

View attachment 236599


And these are definitely NOT blind holes!:

View attachment 236600

View attachment 236601

Anyone have any suggestions for removing the footprints? I only have polishing compound and it's not abrasive enough. Should I get rubbing compound or is there something better suited?

View attachment 236602


I'm REALLY tempted to just put the rack back on until I can regroup with a better game plan. For now, I put the screws back in with some black Permatex under the head and ran them all the way in.

That sucks. I don’t understand why GM went to that system of fastening the racks on the NNBS. It’s the first I’ve heard of it actually. I would be tempted to get an Esky rack and PTM and just leave the cross rails off. That would look cleaner to me than those huge rivnuts sticking up plus that would provide better protection against leaking since there’s gaskets involved.

 

[Sam Harris]

That's what I'm thinking, going to order a new valve cover with the updated PCV system and add a oil catch can

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Yessir! Hope that takes care of it!

 

[HiHoeSilver]

rod vault????

It's an awning, I believe.

 

[DaRosa218]

Yessir! Hope that takes care of it!

Same, I just bought my Dad's commuter off of him so I'm going to take my time going through the Yukon and repair issues as found. Along with the updated valve cover, I'm going to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket and intake manifold gaskets. I'll also check/replace the valley pan gasket and clean the intake including the throttle body.

So in the meantime it looks like i'm looking forwards to 43mpg? LOL

 

[swathdiver]

Saw a lowered Esky with the rack removed. First thing my eyes focused on was the studs sticking out of the roof, FAIL!

 

[iamdub]

Wow!

Can you put one of your extra tree rivets in a drill and spin it while holding it up against a file to turn it down to the same diameter of the insert? Would that look any better?

That the inserts aren’t blind is a surprising discovery to say the least.

Nice idea and I might could do that if the cap spun evenly enough. They're just molded plastic tree rivets so they're not precision formed pieces and would likely wobble, resulting in an oblong head or an off-center turning at best. But, that'd just be a way to cap off the hole and the raised insert piece would still be very visible. I could screw in some set screws with thread sealer and top them off with silicone to accomplish the same thing.

What I was aiming for was to have a slightly domed, low-profile cap with a minimal edge to smoothly cover each one. Not an abrupt cylinder standing above the surface.

If I knew how the sheet metal around the insert would react, I'd drill off the raised portion and have what I want but better. The bumps on the roof covering the holes would be just the thickness of the tree rivet head and that'd be really clean. I'm pretty much at a standstill until I can figure out how to buff out those footprints.

 

[iamdub]

That sucks. I don’t understand why GM went to that system of fastening the racks on the NNBS. It’s the first I’ve heard of it actually. I would be tempted to get an Esky rack and PTM and just leave the cross rails off. That would look cleaner to me than those huge rivnuts sticking up plus that would provide better protection against leaking since there’s gaskets involved.

My thoughts as well. Or, get a strip of low-profile body molding, hollow out where the rivnuts would protrude, PTM and stick that on.

I just don't get how everyone was saying they were blind holes. Just like measuring my spindle and then strut drops, I guess I'm the only that actually tests these things to have hard data.

 

[Rocket Man]

Nice idea and I might could do that if the cap spun evenly enough. They're just molded plastic tree rivets so their not precision formed pieces and would likely wobble, resulting in an oblong head or an off-center turning at best. But, that'd just be way to cap off the hole and the raised insert piece would still be very visible. I could screw in some set screws with thread sealer and top them off with silicone to accomplish the same thing.

What I was aiming for was to have a slightly domed, low-profile cap with a minimal edge to smoothly cover each one. Not an abrupt cylinder standing above the surface.

If I knew how the sheet metal around the insert would react, I'd drill off the raised portion and have what I want but better. The bumps on the roof covering the holes would be just the thickness of the tree rivet head and that'd be really clean. I'm pretty much at a standstill until I can figure out how to buff out those footprints.

I used Meguiars Fine Cut Cleaner on a buffer to get rid of mine.

 

[iamdub]

Saw a lowered Esky with the rack removed. First thing my eyes focused on was the studs sticking out of the roof, FAIL!

Right? They're now almost at eye level! Looks like a PPV that had the light bar removed before it went to auction.

 

[Rocket Man]

My thoughts as well. Or, get a strip of low-profile body molding, hollow out where the rivnuts would protrude, PTM and stick that on.

I just don't get how everyone was saying they were blind holes. Just like measuring my spindle and then strut drops, I guess I'm the only that actually tests these things to have hard data.

I don’t know about the NNBS, only the NBS but Im sure if anyone pulled a rack off a NNBS and didn’t plug the holes, hard data would have filled their truck with water. I know mine are blind.

 

[wjburken]

Nice idea and I might could do that if the cap spun evenly enough. They're just molded plastic tree rivets so their not precision formed pieces and would likely wobble, resulting in an oblong head or an off-center turning at best. But, that'd just be way to cap off the hole and the raised insert piece would still be very visible. I could screw in some set screws with thread sealer and top them off with silicone to accomplish the same thing.

What I was aiming for was to have a slightly domed, low-profile cap with a minimal edge to smoothly cover each one. Not an abrupt cylinder standing above the surface.

If I knew how the sheet metal around the insert would react, I'd drill off the raised portion and have what I want but better. The bumps on the roof covering the holes would be just the thickness of the tree rivet head and that'd be really clean. I'm pretty much at a standstill until I can figure out how to buff out those footprints.

Can you get to the bottom side of that panel? Maybe you could grind off or use pliers to collapse the bottom flange of the insert and pull it out without messing with the painted side.

 

[Mickey_7106]

True duals and h pipe will get you there

Thank you! I will eventually figure out how to tune it so that it crackles and pops on deceleration. I think all I have to do is copy/paste the dfco settings from a G8 tune file. That said I can’t figure out where my laptop is. It WAS in the laptop bag in my back seat but it is no longer there. Hopefully it turns up- because if not then some fool walked off with it