What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Rocket Man

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How hard is it to remove the dash parts for wrapping? I'm always worried I'll break tabs off the pieces. I was going to buy a second set to wrap. But if it's low risk, I may just try it with the ones I have.
They’re pretty easy. You need to pull the cluster bezel first because the ones next to it tuck behind it, then they pop right off.
 

lowh07

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Well that was super stressful and not fun at all. Three more to go, but glad to have the toughest one out of the way.
1E2C9555-0774-4915-933F-AE5A09F937DD.jpeg
 

DaRosa218

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Having a rough idle and seems to be missing when cruising down the road. Going to check for vacuum leaks, pull a couple plugs and clean air filter & MAF sensor. Oxygen Sensors have just been replaced, I did get a P0175-00 "Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2" Code yesterday.
 

iamdub

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Redid the alignment. I had a a very noticeable amount of negative camber and measured it out to be 1°. So I set it to 1° of positive camber as it sat on the blocks. I also adjusted the caster for a little less on the RH side to promote straighter tracking on crowned roads. Of course, this meant I had to readjust the toe. I set it for 3/16" total toe-in.

It tracks "neutrally", the steering isn't squirrelly or heavy and my steering wheel is nearly 100% perfectly level to my eye. I'll carry a 16mm wrench and tweak that on my next trip out.
 

swathdiver

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Redid the alignment. I had a a very noticeable amount of negative camber and measured it out to be 1°. So I set it to 1° of positive camber as it sat on the blocks. I also adjusted the caster for a little less on the RH side to promote straighter tracking on crowned roads. Of course, this meant I had to readjust the toe. I set it for 3/16" total toe-in.

It tracks "neutrally", the steering isn't squirrelly or heavy and my steering wheel is nearly 100% perfectly level to my eye. I'll carry a 16mm wrench and tweak that on my next trip out.

I know you'll keep an eye out for wear, do you have the spec sheet? Our trucks are supposed to be set for negative .10 degrees plus or minus .6 degrees. on camber.

I was looking up how to do this at home after a shop told me I need new ball joints. Before taking it in, we put a dial indicator on the ball joints and they were fine. These guys seemed legit so I will check them all again.
 

97audia4

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I plan on doing 3:73 or 4:10 diff ratios, I dont feel like dealing with any downtime.

Do the Yukon and Tahoe's that are 4wd have the same front diff as the AWD Deanali's fron 2007 to 2014? I dont care about the guts as I also want to do the Yukon Lockers and gear sets.
 

iamdub

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I know you'll keep an eye out for wear, do you have the spec sheet? Our trucks are supposed to be set for negative .10 degrees plus or minus .6 degrees. on camber.

I was looking up how to do this at home after a shop told me I need new ball joints. Before taking it in, we put a dial indicator on the ball joints and they were fine. These guys seemed legit so I will check them all again.

I don't have any way at home to measure any smaller than maybe 1/2 a degree, so I aimed for "0". Which, I'd say is plenty close enough, at least for now. It'll be a good while before I drive it enough to see any change (if any) in the tire wear. I want to replace the tie rod ends and either reseal or replace the steering rack as it has a small leak. Do you know off hand if there's a reseal kit for them? After those parts are replaced, I'll likely get a computerized laser alignment. I definitely wanna see the before and after numbers!

By the way, my camber scale is a length of angle iron with a magnetic Harbor Freight angle finder stuck to it, held against what I can only hope are perfectly perpendicular flats milled on the face of the wheel... :eek:

image_17440.jpg
 

swathdiver

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I don't have any way at home to measure any smaller than maybe 1/2 a degree, so I aimed for "0". Which, I'd say is plenty close enough, at least for now. It'll be a good while before I drive it enough to see any change (if any) in the tire wear. I want to replace the tie rod ends and either reseal or replace the steering rack as it has a small leak. Do you know off hand if there's a reseal kit for them? After those parts are replaced, I'll likely get a computerized laser alignment. I definitely wanna see the before and after numbers!

By the way, my camber scale is a length of angle iron with a magnetic Harbor Freight angle finder stuck to it, held against what I can only hope are perfectly perpendicular flats milled on the face of the wheel... :eek:

image_17440.jpg


Love it, yes you can rebuild the rack with a kit from ACDelco.
 

Geoffsfas10

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Well that was super stressful and not fun at all. Three more to go, but glad to have the toughest one out of the way. View attachment 236203

yeah but damn dude!!! that turned out great!!

I met GoofeyGuy this afternoon and bought the last pieces of Husky Weatherbeaters I needed to cover ALL the carpet in my truck. Now it can be winter with salt and all that BS, the dogs can ride with me now and I need not worry about the inside, as much....or atleast the floor
 

HiHoeSilver

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yeah but damn dude!!! that turned out great!!

I met GoofeyGuy this afternoon and bought the last pieces of Husky Weatherbeaters I needed to cover ALL the carpet in my truck. Now it can be winter with salt and all that BS, the dogs can ride with me now and I need not worry about the inside, as much....or atleast the floor

St Louis?
 

lowh07

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Nice work!

thanks... for the odd bumps, I found a pretty good method. Pull up on the side so the air has an escape. Then work side to side top to bottom with your fingernail to make sure it’s all covered with no bubbles
 

wjburken

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I don't have any way at home to measure any smaller than maybe 1/2 a degree, so I aimed for "0". Which, I'd say is plenty close enough, at least for now. It'll be a good while before I drive it enough to see any change (if any) in the tire wear. I want to replace the tie rod ends and either reseal or replace the steering rack as it has a small leak. Do you know off hand if there's a reseal kit for them? After those parts are replaced, I'll likely get a computerized laser alignment. I definitely wanna see the before and after numbers!

By the way, my camber scale is a length of angle iron with a magnetic Harbor Freight angle finder stuck to it, held against what I can only hope are perfectly perpendicular flats milled on the face of the wheel... :eek:

image_17440.jpg
Wixey makes some neat digital angle finders that are pretty inexpensive. I use them in a lot of applications both at home and at work when setting up equipment.

https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-...ocphy=9018667&hvtargid=pla-455788151006&psc=1
 

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