avalonandl
Full Access Member
Get an extra switch panel from a junkyard to practice on.
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They’re pretty easy. You need to pull the cluster bezel first because the ones next to it tuck behind it, then they pop right off.How hard is it to remove the dash parts for wrapping? I'm always worried I'll break tabs off the pieces. I was going to buy a second set to wrap. But if it's low risk, I may just try it with the ones I have.
weird, on mine you have to remove the trim pieces before you can even get to the cluster bezel.They’re pretty easy. You need to pull the cluster bezel first because the ones next to it tuck behind it, then they pop right off.
Yeah, I was thinking about my Silverado. Oops.weird, on mine you have to remove the trim pieces before you can even get to the cluster bezel.
Redid the alignment. I had a a very noticeable amount of negative camber and measured it out to be 1°. So I set it to 1° of positive camber as it sat on the blocks. I also adjusted the caster for a little less on the RH side to promote straighter tracking on crowned roads. Of course, this meant I had to readjust the toe. I set it for 3/16" total toe-in.
It tracks "neutrally", the steering isn't squirrelly or heavy and my steering wheel is nearly 100% perfectly level to my eye. I'll carry a 16mm wrench and tweak that on my next trip out.
I know you'll keep an eye out for wear, do you have the spec sheet? Our trucks are supposed to be set for negative .10 degrees plus or minus .6 degrees. on camber.
I was looking up how to do this at home after a shop told me I need new ball joints. Before taking it in, we put a dial indicator on the ball joints and they were fine. These guys seemed legit so I will check them all again.
I don't have any way at home to measure any smaller than maybe 1/2 a degree, so I aimed for "0". Which, I'd say is plenty close enough, at least for now. It'll be a good while before I drive it enough to see any change (if any) in the tire wear. I want to replace the tie rod ends and either reseal or replace the steering rack as it has a small leak. Do you know off hand if there's a reseal kit for them? After those parts are replaced, I'll likely get a computerized laser alignment. I definitely wanna see the before and after numbers!
By the way, my camber scale is a length of angle iron with a magnetic Harbor Freight angle finder stuck to it, held against what I can only hope are perfectly perpendicular flats milled on the face of the wheel...
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Love it, yes you can rebuild the rack with a kit from ACDelco.
Well that was super stressful and not fun at all. Three more to go, but glad to have the toughest one out of the way. View attachment 236203
Nice work!Well that was super stressful and not fun at all. Three more to go, but glad to have the toughest one out of the way. View attachment 236203
yeah but damn dude!!! that turned out great!!
I met GoofeyGuy this afternoon and bought the last pieces of Husky Weatherbeaters I needed to cover ALL the carpet in my truck. Now it can be winter with salt and all that BS, the dogs can ride with me now and I need not worry about the inside, as much....or atleast the floor
St Louis?
Nice work!
yeah but damn dude!!! that turned out great!!
Wixey makes some neat digital angle finders that are pretty inexpensive. I use them in a lot of applications both at home and at work when setting up equipment.I don't have any way at home to measure any smaller than maybe 1/2 a degree, so I aimed for "0". Which, I'd say is plenty close enough, at least for now. It'll be a good while before I drive it enough to see any change (if any) in the tire wear. I want to replace the tie rod ends and either reseal or replace the steering rack as it has a small leak. Do you know off hand if there's a reseal kit for them? After those parts are replaced, I'll likely get a computerized laser alignment. I definitely wanna see the before and after numbers!
By the way, my camber scale is a length of angle iron with a magnetic Harbor Freight angle finder stuck to it, held against what I can only hope are perfectly perpendicular flats milled on the face of the wheel...
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