What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

You aren't draggin' a stop sign, are you?

lol, no but that's about the only thing that would make any sense, something hanging in the drivetrain but there was barely a smidge of very fine metal in the rear diff that worked on about 2 weeks ago, nothing abnormal, shifts good, coast's along fine, no bad wheel bearings

 

[PG01]

Crap I get 10 in The Beast with a supercharged, cammed 6.0 and a heavy ass foot. And I’m flying most of the time, Ill tell you.

You’ll tell me what?....

 

[BG1988]

Yeah... after some soul searching... You guys hit the points that were in my head like a roofer hitting nails... 6.2 would be nice... but I got what I ultimately have wanted for the last 12 years since the 07 came out... Like the Tahoe-burb front end better anyways... Hell I could just 6.2 swap this old gal if the AFM eats itself and have the mail hauling machine I want. I have done all fluids except the coolant, was going to do that probably a water pump and thermostat when it gets cooler out just as preventive.

You guys are some of the reasons I like this place so much... Feel at home!

Guess I need to work on ditching this superchips tune and go ahead and do the BB.... Thinking a 2/4 may come before the end of year.... Spend some money on fun for once...

Thanks for all those who chimed on with good voices of reason... I know she is getting broken in... Actually rides better than that mag ride for sure.....

if you want the AFM to last longer change the oil often like every 4000-5500 miles OCI you will get 300,000 miles
like the other hybrid owners get unless some unicorn component fails first




This photo shows a engine with 1995 suburban with 70k miles
the lifters are all ready failed the oil tubes are clogged with dirty oil according to the video it took 45 seconds to get very low flow from the rod tubes... so it's running "dry"

the idiot was revving the engine too and also said keep some water handy if it catches fire... LOL I called him out of that to do a follow up video still no response on that ( he did mention a fire extinguisher though) but WATER will cause a oil fire to flare up




apparently this guy is using magnets on his oil filters and has been collecting a lot of metal shavings

if you watch the video you can HEAR a metal to metal screeching( metal frottage) sound from those lifters hurts my ears

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

if you want the AFM to last longer change the oil often like every 4000-5500 miles OCI you will get 300,000 miles
like the other hybrid owners get unless some unicorn component fails first

I keep mine about every 5k miles full dexos synthetic and its never full black... That dark brown in between coffee and tea...Last one went 6k but I have had some stuff going on and decided to lay on driveway and get it done. May drop some marvel mystery oil in the day before the next change happens to help some cleaning... But this thing keeps pretty oil for first 2k miles, then it browns slowly...

I agree though, The AFM should last with good oil changes but I just turn it off with program to hopefully put it farther out of reach of the Failure Fairy...

 

[Rocket Man]

You’ll tell me what?....

What.

 

[BG1988]

I keep mine about every 5k miles full dexos synthetic and its never full black... That dark brown in between coffee and tea...Last one went 6k but I have had some stuff going on and decided to lay on driveway and get it done. May drop some marvel mystery oil in the day before the next change happens to help some cleaning... But this thing keeps pretty oil for first 2k miles, then it browns slowly...

I agree though, The AFM should last with good oil changes but I just turn it off with program to hopefully put it farther out of reach of the Failure Fairy...

yeah mine does not start changing colors tell 4,000-4200 miles that is when i change it...

that is when i start seeing a few carbon flakes floating around..


i'd assuming these carbon flakes are from the intake valves

it's a very low density amount just a few here and there

so i guess it's a "good thing" they are being removed.. someone in the past must have used cheap gas at some point when the cost was very high..



oil is cheap, filters are cheap as there is plenty of rebates always available..(someitmes you can get the oil for free (5w40 is Free after rebate)(chevron is $0.50 cents a qt after rebate for 10w30 will need to water it down with two qt of 0w30) For me it's cheap insurance..


my dad has good luck changing it every 3k on his old nissan Sentra 210k miles out of it before he got a newer Toyota a 2013 it has 62k never had a CEL on the sentra or toyota so far

 

[Doubeleive]

Crap I get 10 in The Beast with a supercharged, cammed 6.0 and a heavy ass foot. And I’m flying most of the time, Ill tell you.

apparently I have rocket assist on a oem motor with just a blackhawk cai & 90mm tb, lol, last night it did finally bump up to 8.2

 

[Doubeleive]

pulling the radiator out this morning there supposed to deliver the new one sometime shortly after lunch

 

[Doubeleive]

Would a failed VVT solenoid actuator cause this? I can’t recall right now which way the cam defaults too, but just a thought.

wouldn't that give me some kind of check engine code?

 

[wjburken]

wouldn't that give me some kind of check engine code?

I am not sure to be honest as I am not sure which is the master.

Does the computer know when it wants to fire the spark and knows where the cam should be at that time and if it isn't there it throws a code, or does it wait for the cam to be in a certain position and then fire the spark which would not necessarily throw a code. I know if a cam position sensor doesn't sense a state change, it will throw a code because it thinks the cam isn't moving at all.

I do know that a bad VVT solenoid or valve can have an impact on fuel consumption.

 

[Doubeleive]

I am not sure to be honest as I am not sure which is the master.

Does the computer know when it wants to fire the spark and knows where the cam should be at that time and if it isn't there it throws a code, or does it wait for the cam to be in a certain position and then fire the spark which would not necessarily throw a code. I know if a cam position sensor doesn't sense a state change, it will throw a code because it thinks the cam isn't moving at all.

I do know that a bad VVT solenoid or valve can have an impact on fuel consumption.

well there is no misfires I have sat and monitored it with the tech2 and no misfire history either. the engine only has 40k on it, previous motor had a bad cam and my warranty covered a rebuilt motor and I paid the difference to the dealer about $1k to have a new factory motor put in only thing used on it was the intake and coils, fuel rail, power steering pump I had them put a new water pump on it at the same time so the water pump would have the mr goodwrench lifetime warranty. If my cat's aren't clogged or getting clogged then I don't know what else could be wrong it runs perfect. I replaced all 4 02 sensors at 100k which was 20k ago, i've serviced everything, put new plug wires on it about 3 weeks ago, the mileage was piss poor even before that

 

[wendal]

Met up with a fellow member today @dross99_si and attempted to find an emissions leak. Turns out the Tech-2 wanted the engine temp below 158 and that wasn't happening under today's Florida sun, even in the morning after a short drive. So instead we poked around the computer system and shot the breeze until next time. We're both chasing a P0442, very small evap system leak. The Tech-2 can be used to eliminate one portion of the system but I really need to make or buy a smoke generator and do a visual search.

Andy's 2007 Tahoe is one of the cleanest and well maintained trucks I've seen.

Oh, for you guys with Tech-2 and 2007 or 2008 trucks, where can you see the Fuel Pump Module or the pressure and such? Mine (2009) has a dedicated menu but did not see it on the 2007 and poked around a while and still couldn't find it.

If I missed an entry where you guys did this, my apologies; I've gotten way behind in this thread...

Did you guys change the purge valve?

I had a p0442, changed this valve in 5 minutes, error gone. My truck had been fighting to start on the first turn after filling up the gas tank. This resolved the issue and the error.

 

[wjburken]

well there is no misfires I have sat and monitored it with the tech2 and no misfire history either. the engine only has 40k on it, previous motor had a bad cam and my warranty covered a rebuilt motor and I paid the difference to the dealer about $1k to have a new factory motor put in only thing used on it was the intake and coils, fuel rail, power steering pump I had them put a new water pump on it at the same time so the water pump would have the mr goodwrench lifetime warranty. If my cat's aren't clogged or getting clogged then I don't know what else could be wrong it runs perfect. I replaced all 4 02 sensors at 100k which was 20k ago, i've serviced everything, put new plug wires on it about 3 weeks ago, the mileage was piss poor even before that

Man, you got me hanging on this one. I can't think of anything you have not covered. Only getting 8-10 mpg is very odd. Even in the winters here when we leave our vehicle run/warm-up, we average 13-14 mpg.

I only mentioned the VVT as I was getting ready to replace the solenoid and the valve on my 2007 because I was getting poor mileage and that was in the same boat as you. I actually purchased the solenoid and the valve, but ended up trading the vehicle in before I got to it.

If you do decide to go that route, now is the time to do it since your radiator is pulled and your coolant is drained.

 

[Doubeleive]

Man, you got me hanging on this one. I can't think of anything you have not covered. Only getting 8-10 mpg is very odd. Even in the winters here when we leave our vehicle run/warm-up, we average 13-14 mpg.

I only mentioned the VVT as I was getting ready to replace the solenoid and the valve on my 2007 because I was getting poor mileage and that was in the same boat as you. I actually purchased the solenoid and the valve, but ended up trading the vehicle in before I got to it.

If you do decide to go that route, now is the time to do it since your radiator is pulled and your coolant is drained.

if that is what controls the cylinder deactivation I have had that turned off with a canned tuner since the motor was put in

 

[wjburken]

if that is what controls the cylinder deactivation I have had that turned off with a canned tuner since the motor was put in

It does not have anything to do with cylinder deactivation. What I am referring to is the VVT solenoid and the valve for advancing/retarding your cam. I am assuming you still have VVT active in your vehicle. The valve doubles as the bolt that attaches your VVT phaser sprocket to the cam. The solenoid is mounted on the timing chain cover behind the water-pump.

 

[R3cord303]

Man, you got me hanging on this one. I can't think of anything you have not covered. Only getting 8-10 mpg is very odd. Even in the winters here when we leave our vehicle run/warm-up, we average 13-14 mpg.

I only mentioned the VVT as I was getting ready to replace the solenoid and the valve on my 2007 because I was getting poor mileage and that was in the same boat as you. I actually purchased the solenoid and the valve, but ended up trading the vehicle in before I got to it.

If you do decide to go that route, now is the time to do it since your radiator is pulled and your coolant is drained.

What engine do you have? My 07 doesn’t have VVT.



Unrelated but my MPG average sense replacing the engine and doing the AFM delete and cam hasn’t risen so far on the drive to California. Still at 14.3 but goodness the vehicle has been doing great on the drive.

 

[wjburken]

What engine do you have? My 07 doesn’t have VVT.

The 6.2L in the Denali's have VVT.

 

[Doubeleive]

It does not have anything to do with cylinder deactivation. What I am referring to is the VVT solenoid and the valve for advancing/retarding your cam. I am assuming you still have VVT active in your vehicle. The valve doubles as the bolt that attaches your VVT phaser sprocket to the cam. The solenoid is mounted on the timing chain cover behind the water-pump.

View attachment 229993
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i'm familiar with where it is located, I just wasn't sure if it had anything to do with cylinder deactivation or not. on the old engine I was getting 10 average, then when the new motor was put in I was getting 10, it's only sat on 8 since I reset everything in the dic and I have only been driving around town maybe 5-10 mile hwy drives at the most and the rest city driving, I need to go out of town a ways soon I may reset it again and see if it bumps off of 8, I think it's mostly just my spirited driving but not 100% sure.

 

[wjburken]

i'm familiar with where it is located, I just wasn't sure if it had anything to do with cylinder deactivation or not. on the old engine I was getting 10 average, then when the new motor was put in I was getting 10, it's only sat on 8 since I reset everything in the dic and I have only been driving around town maybe 5-10 mile hwy drives at the most and the rest city driving, I need to go out of town a ways soon I may reset it again and see if it bumps off of 8, I think it's mostly just my spirited driving but not 100% sure.

Fair enough. I thought your low mileage was a new development. You got let those ponies run on the open range once in awhile! Here in Iowa, we have a lot of wide open spaces to let them run.

 

[Doubeleive]

Fair enough. I thought your low mileage was a new development. You got let those ponies run on the open range once in awhile! Here in Iowa, we have a lot of wide open spaces to let them run.

well im going to keep an eye on it for sure, I need to pick up a thermometer and check the cat's at least that's easy enough