What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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avalonandl

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Plug and wires changed yesterday 8/14 at stealership in Troy. Immediately noticed improved throttle response especially at 50% to WOT.

Gas mileage on the trip up north was 18.3
Previous trips in the mid 16's. My mpg meter is very accurate- tracked last 2 tanks and I am using less than it says.

Although expensive well worth it.
 

Rocket Man

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Plug and wires changed yesterday 8/14 at stealership in Troy. Immediately noticed improved throttle response especially at 50% to WOT.

Gas mileage on the trip up north was 18.3
Previous trips in the mid 16's. My mpg meter is very accurate- tracked last 2 tanks and I am using less than it says.

Although expensive well worth it.
Not so expensive if you do it yourself!
 

R3cord303

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Instead of doing AFM delete, I've been talking with someone at the local speed shop. Sounding like I'll be getting a Jasper engine that already has the cam and delete installed in it. Save a little bit of money and still get the benefit of a brand new engine. Will see. Gonna get installed, get it dyno tuned and then I'm driving down to SoCal. I know Jasper isn't exactly the highest quality engine ever but it will be fine for a daily with the little bit of extra power from the cam.
 

Tonyrodz

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Instead of doing AFM delete, I've been talking with someone at the local speed shop. Sounding like I'll be getting a Jasper engine that already has the cam and delete installed in it. Save a little bit of money and still get the benefit of a brand new engine. Will see. Gonna get installed, get it dyno tuned and then I'm driving down to SoCal. I know Jasper isn't exactly the highest quality engine ever but it will be fine for a daily with the little bit of extra power from the cam.
I had a Jasper reman 4.3 in my 95 Blazer. Bought it with 110,000 and got rid of it well over 280,000, had 0 issues with the motor. Never lost any power, and never smoked a bit. I did have to add oil, but that was due to my heavy foot.
 
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Rocket Man

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My back is worth more to me... at 64 I am trying to be kind to myself. Saving myself up for changing the air compressor for auto-ride...
I understand. I’m 60 and just did my transmission. My back bothers me but plugs don’t really hurt to do, I pull my wheel liners and do them from underneath. It’s still a fast process. I’ll never trust anyone to do my work, probably just keep at it as long as I can drive.
 

Tonyrodz

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I understand. I’m 60 and just did my transmission. My back bothers me but plugs don’t really hurt to do, I pull my wheel liners and do them from underneath. It’s still a fast process. I’ll never trust anyone to do my work, probably just keep at it as long as I can drive.
Getting old sux.
 

Doubeleive

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guess it's time to do the gruven mirror gears my passenger mirror keeps getting stuck in, I can get it to go back out but I have too do the stretch out the window push on the mirror and hit the button at the same time. those that have done it, was it hard?
 

iamdub

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My back is worth more to me... at 64 I am trying to be kind to myself. Saving myself up for changing the air compressor for auto-ride...

Fear not. Having recently replaced my compressor, I can tell you that it's surprisingly easy. The hardest part is separating the wire harness plug because there's no slack and it's on top.

There's three nuts (14mm I think)- two towards the back and one towards the front. Loosen the rear until they're about flush with or above the studs then give 'em a couple whacks with a hammer. They're splined studs that grip the frame when you tighten the nuts so knocking them back out just a hair really loosens up the compressor. The front nut is loosened via access through a hole on the insideof the frame. Once loose, you slide the compressor up and towards the back so the stud heads can come out of the keyed slots. I got the rear studs out and left the front one in the slot in the frame so the front of the compressor could hang as I rotated the back part downward to better access and separate the wire harness. After that and the airlines are disconnected, just slide the compressor up and to the back to get that front stud out of the slot/hole and it's free to go. Hang the new one by the front hole and do everything in reverse order. I'd estimate it to be about a 20 minute job working on the ground.
 

osiris94ej

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Not bad for not touching a welder for 6 years. Also borrowing a new to me welder i wasn't familiar with.
f8c4d79ed4270575135b9cdad7ed1fb8.jpg

1ba465f00510f16a30bcb362a21a86e1.jpg

d3f81b355b1085f6b36859d89ca71daa.jpg


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

kbuskill

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guess it's time to do the gruven mirror gears my passenger mirror keeps getting stuck in, I can get it to go back out but I have too do the stretch out the window push on the mirror and hit the button at the same time. those that have done it, was it hard?

No it's not terribly hard... they provide good/lengthy instructions.

I bought the gears that were already attached to the shafts, so I wouldn't have to wait 24hrs for the epoxy to cure, as well as their HD motors.
 
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07Burb

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Not bad for not touching a welder for 6 years. Also borrowing a new to me welder i wasn't familiar with.
f8c4d79ed4270575135b9cdad7ed1fb8.jpg

1ba465f00510f16a30bcb362a21a86e1.jpg

d3f81b355b1085f6b36859d89ca71daa.jpg


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
nice :waytogo:
 

mattjones

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Got me a weekend project. Part of the 100K mile service: 5 gal ATF, 1 gal of gear oil, gasket & filter.
20190816-123757990-i-OS-1.jpg

20190816-123810468-i-OS-1.jpg

I’ve never done this myself. Aren’t the tranny pans on these GM trucks notoriously difficult to get off because of the exhaust pipe or something?
 

avalonandl

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Fear not. Having recently replaced my compressor, I can tell you that it's surprisingly easy. The hardest part is separating the wire harness plug because there's no slack and it's on top.

There's three nuts (14mm I think)- two towards the back and one towards the front. Loosen the rear until they're about flush with or above the studs then give 'em a couple whacks with a hammer. They're splined studs that grip the frame when you tighten the nuts so knocking them back out just a hair really loosens up the compressor. The front nut is loosened via access through a hole on the insideof the frame. Once loose, you slide the compressor up and towards the back so the stud heads can come out of the keyed slots. I got the rear studs out and left the front one in the slot in the frame so the front of the compressor could hang as I rotated the back part downward to better access and separate the wire harness. After that and the airlines are disconnected, just slide the compressor up and to the back to get that front stud out of the slot/hole and it's free to go. Hang the new one by the front hole and do everything in reverse order. I'd estimate it to be about a 20 minute job working on the ground.

Can I replace it without jacking up the SUV? Just laying on the ground???
 

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