[emoji1787]Uhh... You do know what kind of drive-by Sam is asking for, right, Tony? I know you NJ thugs have a different definition for that than Denver.
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[emoji1787]Uhh... You do know what kind of drive-by Sam is asking for, right, Tony? I know you NJ thugs have a different definition for that than Denver.
Lol, it's launch control!!
you need a tech2 to test themSo after replacing the window regulators, now my switches are ******. Might have been the problem all along. Replaced both rear switches and they worked for a bit. Then the front switches rear windows stopped working.
Just replaced the switch with a brand new oem switch. Thoughts? Do these need reprogrammed at the stealership?

Figured. Well, I took apart my old switch, cleaned all the contacts and still nothing. So, I tested one of the old window regulators. Now it works. So new switches in rear, cleaned the contacts on the old switch, and put the old regulator back in on the passengers side rear.you need a tech2 to test them![]()
Figured. Well, I took apart my old switch, cleaned all the contacts and still nothing. So, I tested one of the old window regulators. Now it works. So new switches in rear, cleaned the contacts on the old switch, and put the old regulator back in on the passengers side rear.
Sadly, not worth me trying to ship back a $35 window regulator. Unless they just want to credit me and I toss the new one.
Tried both of the old regulators and they worked with the new switches in the back. So it has to be the motor on the new window regulator I bought.
Well, at least my window goes up all the way..........for now [emoji849]
.Well to continue from the previous cleaning. Finally got the wifey wagon ceramic coated and paint correction done.
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I could hear a "tick" in the switch, but no movement. [emoji1745] Well, thankfully I got it fixed. Not but an hour later, it was a torrential downpour.I think the switch modules have load-sensing circuitry that rely on feedback from the motors. A defective and/or sub-par aftermarket motor might draw more amperage than the OEM motor, triggering the "breaker" circuitry in the switch module.
Just replaced the switch with a brand new oem switch. Thoughts? Do these need reprogrammed at the stealership?
The part number for the Chevy 6.2L badge is 84192174. I’ve thought about buying one for my truck but haven’t pulled the trigger.Random thought after sitting at a redlight earlier next to a new 2019 Sierra Denali...
Might be neat to use the center part of the fender emblem from the '19 truck for some of us NNBS 6.2 owners looking for a unique (but still technically OE) badge/emblem.
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Have you ever noticed how small your rear tire looks in the wheel well?Drove it to church then stopped at the grocery store on the way home and low and behold.... another WDT Suburban with the same wheels as mine sitting in the parking lot...
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The other one is obviously an '09+... you can tell by the rear bumper.
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The other one also didn't have two hooks up front.
Wish I could have gotten some better pics but there was a big work van parked in the way.
It's hard to tell much of a difference in height until you see the wheel well gap out back... lol
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Also, before anyone has a chance to tell me I have a parking light out on the rear... it's just the way the camera pics up LEDs... they all work, I promise.