What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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cfmistry

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Just got an '07 LT3 last week. Loving it. But so far...

2 new key FOBs
2 new keys
A/C control stickers
Steering wheel wrap
New center console wrap
Universal floor mats (it didn't come with any)
Front air dam (was missing)
Timken front left wheel bearing/hub :(
Gabriel Ultra rear shocks
GM TPMS sensors (mine were missing)
Used 285/45-22 tires

So it's been a bit more expensive than I planned for, but still manageable!
 

the_tool_man

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Just got an '07 LT3 last week. Loving it. But so far...

2 new key FOBs
2 new keys
A/C control stickers
Steering wheel wrap
New center console wrap
Universal floor mats (it didn't come with any)
Front air dam (was missing)
Timken front left wheel bearing/hub :(
Gabriel Ultra rear shocks
GM TPMS sensors (mine were missing)
Used 285/45-22 tires

So it's been a bit more expensive than I planned for, but still manageable!

Every time I purchase a used vehicle, especially if it's more than 5 years old, I budget $1000 for repairs. My reasoning is that when someone knows they're going to sell/trade theirs, they defer maintenance and repairs. My experience has shown this to be pretty typical, unless buying something fairly new from a dealer.
 

Derick

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Every time I purchase a used vehicle, especially if it's more than 5 years old, I budget $1000 for repairs. My reasoning is that when someone knows they're going to sell/trade theirs, they defer maintenance and repairs. My experience has shown this to be pretty typical, unless buying something fairly new from a dealer.
Yep, this is the right answer. Consider it into your offer as well. "Ok, you want 10k, ok, well I figure another 1-2k in repairs and stuff that you've avoided for the last 2 years, soooo I'll give you 9200. "
 

GranPrix

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cfmistry

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Every time I purchase a used vehicle, especially if it's more than 5 years old, I budget $1000 for repairs. My reasoning is that when someone knows they're going to sell/trade theirs, they defer maintenance and repairs. My experience has shown this to be pretty typical, unless buying something fairly new from a dealer.

Tool man, you are 100% right. In fact I know I am pretty lucky only running about $1k in small repairs on a 150k mile truck. I am lucky the previous owners took good care of her, evident by the Amsoil stickers.
 

09 L9H

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Every time I purchase a used vehicle, especially if it's more than 5 years old, I budget $1000 for repairs. My reasoning is that when someone knows they're going to sell/trade theirs, they defer maintenance and repairs. My experience has shown this to be pretty typical, unless buying something fairly new from a dealer.
This is the way to do it. I bought my truck off a buy-here pay-here lot in June. Told the salesman I wanted to go a Chevy dealership for a PPI and he said "oh, we've already had a mechanic look everything over." I foolishly said OK and only had it a few days before I dropped about $2500 on it in one morning.

Went in for new tires ($1250), and the tire place determined that my brake discs/pads were shot. Went to a brake shop and they replaced my brakes only to find out that my wheel bearings were completely busted. And no, I didn't get fleeced. The front end had been making a horrible grinding sound under cornering loads, so I knew that was either bearings or ball joints. But when they had it on the lift, they showed me just how much play there was about the horizontal axis.

Since then I've driven about 13k miles and no maintenance other than an oil change every 5k miles or so. Lesson learned: take vehicle to a dealership for a PPI and have money saved up for DM items. And in case you're wondering, yes, this was my first actual vehicle purchase.
 

09 L9H

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I definitely did not rip donuts in any empty parking lots this weekend. No I did not.

IMG_0465.jpeg
 

iamdub

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I definitely did not rip donuts in any empty parking lots this weekend. No I did not.

View attachment 212113

You scored an L9H Tahoe from a buy-here-pay-here lot?! I'd think that people that own those know what they have and take care of them and trade them in at new car dealerships. In my mind, it's just the type of vehicle that's too nice to end up at those types of car lots.
 

M3kanic

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You scored an L9H Tahoe from a buy-here-pay-here lot?! I'd think that people that own those know what they have and take care of them and trade them in at new car dealerships. In my mind, it's just the type of vehicle that's too nice to end up at those types of car lots.
You'd be surprised. I know a few high profile dealership owners and they only care about profits. Most of the time they dont care what it is. They just know that a particular type of vehicle sells well in that area and that's what they care about.

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the_tool_man

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You scored an L9H Tahoe from a buy-here-pay-here lot?! I'd think that people that own those know what they have and take care of them and trade them in at new car dealerships. In my mind, it's just the type of vehicle that's too nice to end up at those types of car lots.

Two years ago that was true. But I'm seeing them show up at those lots quite a bit recently. They usually have over 150k miles, and/or obvious cosmetic issues (ragged interior, crap wheels, questionable mods). Even then, they ask a premium for them.
 

09 L9H

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You scored an L9H Tahoe from a buy-here-pay-here lot?! I'd think that people that own those know what they have and take care of them and trade them in at new car dealerships. In my mind, it's just the type of vehicle that's too nice to end up at those types of car lots.
Believe me, I was just as surprised as you are. And the lot was only 4 mi from where I live! The only other ones I'd found were in like Dallas and Jacksonville. I really lucked out. I had been looking for a UZJ100 Land Cruiser, but the F-150 I had at the time was having some issues so my new car search escalated quickly. I found my Tahoe on a Tuesday night and bought it the next afternoon.

It was listed on Autotrader as a 5.3L, but the 8th VIN digit was 2. I took that to mean that the lot didn't know it was a 6.2 and hoped that meant i could lowball them, but unfortunately it didn't work out that way.

Two years ago that was true. But I'm seeing them show up at those lots quite a bit recently. They usually have over 150k miles, and/or obvious cosmetic issues (ragged interior, crap wheels, questionable mods). Even then, they ask a premium for them.
This is kinda the case with mine. Photos on Autotrader carefully hid the horribly cracked dash and dent in the front passenger door. Both were a surprise to me when I went to test drive. There were also some random interior bits I had to replace. But I'm the 3rd owner and mechanically it's super solid so I don't regret the purchase. 403 HP can cover a multitude of sins.
 

swathdiver

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Replaced the back up bulbs with OE replacements from a Buick/GMC dealer in Escondido, Cali for under $6 delivered. Of course, in the nice cool air my youngest daughter and I each broke the top guide pin to each taillight assembly! Tried pulling straight back but had more leverage the other way. One of the tradeoffs of tight body lines, no give! Everything went back together nice and tight though.
 

M3kanic

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Ain't that the truth! Love my 6.2L. Gonna love it even more after Sunday, when I get my BB tune.
I want a review. The cats are bad on mine and I want to put on the speed engineering headers and y pipe. Then get a tune to turn off the o2. So I want to know your impressions.

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the_tool_man

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I want a review. The cats are bad on mine and I want to put on the speed engineering headers and y pipe. Then get a tune to turn off the o2. So I want to know your impressions.

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Sure.

I've been debating whether or not to buy the AutoCal, too. I have no need to return it to stock. And I don't have any plans to mod it. But plans change, lol. If I ever have to mechanically delete the AFM, the likelihood of a cam upgrade is pretty high. And BB offers a $50 discount on the tune with purchase. Decisions...
 

M3kanic

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Sure.

I've been debating whether or not to buy the AutoCal, too. I have no need to return it to stock. And I don't have any plans to mod it. But plans change, lol. If I ever have to mechanically delete the AFM, the likelihood of a cam upgrade is pretty high. And BB offers a $50 discount on the tune with purchase. Decisions...
That's what is so hard for me as I already have an autocal from my GMT800. But I agree with you on deleting the afm and getting a cam at the same time.

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kbuskill

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Technically I didn't do anything to her BUT...

I did order the Rancho RS999784 struts for the front for myself for Christmas.

http://www.gorancho.com/products/sh...nce-strut/rancho-rs9000xl-strut-rs999784.html

rps20181212_232330_368.jpg


They are 9 way adjustable so I can tune them to the firmness I desire hopefully.

I plan on installing them the way @07Burb has his by mounting them below the control arm to achieve the ride height I am looking for instead of having to buy spring relocators and losing strut travel.

The Belltech drop struts will be available after I get these put on if anyone is interested. Probably after the first of the year.
 

iamdub

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Technically I didn't do anything to her BUTT

Giggity.


I plan on installing them the way @07Burb has his by mounting them below the control arm to achieve the ride height I am looking for instead of having to buy spring relocators and losing strut travel.

Wait- this is a thing?! I've been plotting on this lately trying to come up with a way to make some simple brackets to "hang" the struts from the underside but with the weight still on the top just as it was designed. I don't wanna rely solely on bolts to hold it together. If the bolts fail, that side will slam to the ground. Done correctly, I'm estimating this to be good for about a 2" bolt-on drop. @07Burb, you gotta fill me in, bro!
 

kbuskill

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Giggity.




Wait- this is a thing?! I've been plotting on this lately trying to come up with a way to make some simple brackets to "hang" the struts from the underside but with the weight still on the top just as it was designed. I don't wanna rely solely on bolts to hold it together. If the bolts fail, that side will slam to the ground. Done correctly, I'm estimating this to be good for about a 2" bolt-on drop. @07Burb, you gotta fill me in, bro!

Look up rough country 2/4 lowering kit.

They simply bolt the strut to the bottom of the control arm with a 1/4" spacer.

They do however provide what they call "grade 9" bolts in there kit... which I had never heard of before.

Turns out "grade 9" is also known as F911 or L9 and has a 180,000 LB shear strength which they claim is 20% stronger than grade 8.

I certainly don't plan on doing this without the "grade 9" hardware which I have already been looking into.
 

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