Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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OP
OP
Are you talking Morimoto XB HID's? I didn't see any LED's on their site for the 5202's and don't want to run HID in my fogs.
OP
OP
Oh yeah, I saw those too lol. Probably would if I didn't spend so much on headlight parts.
Yup. Justin tuned all my gassers way back when.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I thought I had all the LED/ retrofit situation either completed or on order. Interior LED's; license plate LED's; CHMSTL LED's; backup LED's; tail/rear turn LED's; front turn/marker light LED's; headlights will be retrofit HID soon. All check. Tonight I remembered fog lights...and the truck has these weird ones, 5202. Bulb and socket all in one. So I ordered these JDM Astar 6000k ones. That should be it.
I paid $30 for my old school Philips 5202s!
Will those plug in without having to mess with anything?
OP
OP
I got some new aluminum leaner/sealer yesterday that I'd ordered so I gave it a try on the front billets today. Supposedly it seals and will repel everything for 2-3 months. Time will tell. It's called Gord's and it got great reviews. I only did the fronts because it was killing my shoulder and even though they had been polished 2 weeks ago with MR Metal they were already getting a bit dull. The Gord's brightened them up. Hopefully it lasts.
OP
OP
And after that I decided to go see how the tune worked. As soon as I started moving, the ABS, Stabilitrack and Traction Control lights were back. Good news is, the tune really woke it up. It's way quicker. I went back and hooked up the Tech 2,checked the codes which were speed sensor, scrolled to the data display where it shows them and went for a drive. The LR isn't working well, at 35 mph it shows 6. The other 3 are fine. I had cleaned the rears which were full of grime and metal dust but had noticed the o-ring on the LR was bad and it was probably leaking. I'm going to replace that one. I think that will fix it. All my other codes are gone, steering wheel position sensor is still reading accurately.
OP
OP
Yes, direct replacements for the standard 5202's and they were only $25 shipped an Amazon.
Those black ones will sperate where the aluminum and plastic meet under heat. Put a piece of good electrical tape around it or pull apart and re glue with something stronger. If you want the brightest 5202 bulbs possible PM me. I'll show you what I sell.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
I use zephyr pro 40 and white diamond on my billets. Once I machine polish them again I will coat them with adams ceramic coating. The ceramic coating holds the polish on mine for 9 months before needing polishing. That's not driving in the rain only clear days and wiping water off wheels after it rains. That's the only way I know to keep from constant polishing.
OP
OP
I started on the front brakes today. I was planning on replacing the rotors, calipers, pads and stainless hoses that were originally on The Beast for only a few months when I did my NNBS upgrade. But then I decided to leave the calipers on because they were already black and I have decided I want my brakes to not stand out on this truck, mainly because it has drums on the rear at this point. The ones off The Beast were red. Also, these were in great shape. I do plan on converting to discs in the rear but that will be later. So then I started to replace the stainless hoses but they were different than the Silverado's so that was out. That left me with the rotors and EBC pads. I painted the outer edges of the rotors and thought the hats were covered by the wheels so I didn't paint them. I was wrong but as it was, I only got the left side done today anyway so I'll take it apart and paint that tomorrow. But I was glad I decided to swap the pads and rotors out. The pads he had on it must have been the cheapest made; they had probably 70% left but they had some serious cracks and I have no doubt they would have fallen apart. Plus the rotors are slotted so they might dissipate heat better.
OP
OP
Also, I replaced 2 studs while I was at it. One was broken off halfway and one was pretty much stripped. I tried to get the first one in with my 1/2" impact but it wouldn't quite seat so I threw a few of them in the freezer for a couple hours. That did it; I was barely able to get them fully seated. It feels good to take care of that though; there was the one lug that was barely grabbing any threads so I didn't torque it much and the other felt like it was going to strip so I didn't fully torque it either. Now I can R&R that wheel without a worry and I feel safer too. Good thing too since I'll be pulling it off tomorrow.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Does that make the metal contract? So it's easier?
OP
OP
Yep. I learned that trick when installing bearings on my Harleys. Either heat up the wheel or freeze the bearing and I could just tap them in with a hammer and block of wood, no bearing press needed. I found out it was easier to freeze the bearing. Same with the lugs; the tolerance was so tight that all it took was a couple of thousandths and freezing provided that. If I'd thought of it the night before and left them in overnight it would have been easier. I now have a box of wheel studs in my freezer in case I need any more today.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Nice.
OP
OP
I got a couple things done today. I installed the passenger front rotor and pads and this time I painted the hat on the rotor beforehand. Next I fixed the mount for the overflow tank that someone had screwed up when they relocated the tank. There was a broken off bolt in the valve cover where they had it attached at one point. It came zip-tied in place, sort of anyway. The bracket also needed to be modified to work right and I drilled out the bolt and tapped the hole in the valve cover. It came out pretty good, nice and solid. Then the rear wheel speed sensor showed up so I installed that and painted the brake drum with black caliper paint since I'm going with black brakes. And I added some split loom where it was missing too @Galante . Then I hooked up the Tech 2 and went for a drive to see if the sensor was reading right. No such luck. Still only reads about 5 mph at 35. I came home and looked up troubleshooting on alldatadiy and decided to call it a day. I'll pull the wheel again tomorrow and get into it. And now I need to pull the driver front and passenger rear wheels to finish painting like I did on the other 2. These damn billets are wearing me out lol. Tomorrow the tailgate helper and the Depo's will be delivered also. Friday the retrofits from TRS will be delivered.
Thanks red...
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Watch that shoulder Red.
OP
OP
I have a way to pull the wheels using my knee to lift at the center caps. Works pretty good when the tire barely clears the ground.
OP
OP
I pulled the RR and LF wheels and finished up the painting today, then pulled the LR to troubleshoot the speed sensor issue. I was trying to spin the wheel with a DVM hooked up to the sensor leads to see whether it was generating an ac signal which is pretty damn hard with the driveline connected. I decided to look up into the hole where the sensor mounts to see if I could watch the reluctor spin. I noticed it looked like it was slipping so I stuck a tool up there and could spin it without the axle moving. I tried the side that's working and couldn't do that. So it's the "electronic brake control ring" that's the problem. I looked up the replacement procedure and , just like I thought, the axle has to come out. Then USPS showed up and there was my tailgate assist so I CM'd the brackets and installed it. That little thing works great; thanks @kwOH for the heads up on that. It looks like the paint might be a touch dark but it's pretty close. It might actually be the clear I used, I'll get some other and see. It should be close enough for the headlights, which just showed up as I was typing this. They are Depo this time.
