Z55 rebuild or bilsteins

[Ilikemtb999]

I’ve read just about everything I can on z55 suspension and still cannot decide if I should go with a stock rebuild (or arnott) or buy some bilstein 5160 resi shocks for the rear.

I’d love to hear from anybody that has gone the delete route and if you regret it or are happy with it.

Current issue is the bags out back are not holding air and the compressor is dead. Arnott 2708 electronic replacements are $250 each at rock and dorman compressor is $200 or so.

Bilstein 5160 reservoir shocks are $500 for the pair out back and I can just get helper bags for heavier loads (probably new springs too).

Pricing comes out to about the same but might end up cheaper in the long run with the “dumb” shock route.


Side note, can I keep the leveling sensors and hook a stock compressor up to helper bags?

 

[Big Mama]

A few thoughts:

1) Your rig was designed with stock suspension for safety as well as ride quality and load handling.

2) Your stock system lasted how long?

3) If you go with passive shocks you need to replace the springs. Stock Z55 springs are softer. I found this out the hard way before switching back to stock.

4) If cost is comparable and you’d have to add helper bags this is an easy call. Arnott has a lifetime warranty so you’ll never buy rear shocks again.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

^^^^^x2^^^^^ in my opinion.

This Forum is FULL of threads covering this exact topic, and there are good justifications for going either way. At the end of the day, the choice is yours.

BUT, as @Big Mama stated above, if you go the passive shocks route, you will need to change your rear springs to the non-Z55 specification.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I did state I’d be doing springs with bilsteins. My concern with new oem rebuilds (arnotts) are other things going out within the system and being nickel and dimed.

The basic arnotts with airbags I assume just aren’t as good as a bilstein 5100 series. I don’t see going that route. It’s either electronic replacements or a higher (low) end shock.

I’ve seen discussion about this but haven’t actually seen people go the route I speak of.

 

[petethepug]

Search 88mph on the forum

I’m pushing 180k+ on the original suspension in my 09 Esky. Here’s a list of parts you need to rebuild the z55 front struts w/ OEM, guaranteed for life GM struts and the ancillaries. It’s $1.2k.

If you want want to replace all the bushings and control arms with steel or aluminum, it’s another 2-$3h more.

Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

It's front-end refresh time. I'm fast approaching 180K miles on our 09 Esky ESV. It has the original everything on the suspension. The front sway bar bushings have been replaced with poly recently because they were ready to disintegrate. While looking around at parts I saw that aluminum upper...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Here’s the list of all the part #’s from RockAuto. You’d need z55 struts for the Denali. Z95 for the Esky are listed below

View attachment 429586View attachment 429587

You’ve only got to do it once the right way with a lifetime guarantee on factory struts. Jerry-rigging parts and sensors for an economy ride means you’ll be doing it again & again and have your top speed limited to 88mph or override the stability system at your own risk.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Search 88mph on the forum

I’m currently talking about the rears since all of my dampers are actually functional, just the bags have torn.

 

[petethepug]

I’m referring to the rears if your truck has z55 autoride.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I’m referring to the rears if your truck has z55 autoride.

I’m confused then because your linked thread is all about the front end.

 

[j91z28d1]

why not just buy oem replacement shocks off rock auto? mine were like 300 each, my compressor still works, but a new one is what? 200?

i vote just fix it and be done with it. best of both worlds. it rides stock, about the best it's going to. can pump up for load and the rest of the active handling stuff is all calibrated for it.

I don't see why people buy the arnotts or rebuilds whatever that is?


I do have z95 not z55 thou. but seems about the same just a slightly different/older technology.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

why not just buy oem replacement shocks off rock auto? mine were like 300 each, my compressor still works, but a new one is what? 200?

i vote just fix it and be done with it. best of both worlds. it rides stock, about the best it's going to. can pump up for load and the rest of the active handling stuff is all calibrated for it.

I don't see why people buy the arnotts or rebuilds whatever that is?


I do have z95 not z55 thou. but seems about the same just a slightly different/older technology.

Z55 is similar but electronically controlled.

One reason I’m mulling it over is that I may want to lower it in the future. I miss having a low nnbs hoe. It simplifies it quite a bit.

 

[j91z28d1]

the z95 is electronically controlled as well. Just goes about it differently.

I caught a thread somewhere about one of the aftermarket selling z55 and z95 "compatible" shocks.. both were the same and just fakes. they didn't do anything.

I can see if you wanted to drop it I guess. I'd like to lower the back of mine about an inch, I haven't got around to trying adjusting anything yet. but I read they make sensor adapters for lift kits and lowering kits. Definitely seems to add a bit of hassle but after driving different trucks at work around these ridiculously maintenance roads here, when I jump in my z95 suspension and hit the same bumps and don't fly out of my seat or in the case of the ford's, the whole steering wheel going limp while the tires bounce around. it makes me just want to leave well enough alone and enjoy a smooth ride that sucks up big bumps pretty nice. but I do also of the big side wall 17in rims too.

 

[petethepug]

The post I linked does have info regarding the front end. The wisdom I’m sharing in that post is ….

“You’ve only got to do it once the right way with a lifetime guarantee on factory struts. Jerry-rigging parts and sensors for an economy ride means you’ll be doing it again & again and have your top speed limited to 88mph or override the stability system at your own risk.”

If you are going to lower it, wouldn’t you want a strut with a lifetime warranty? If you’re talking about laying some frame then you’ve got no choice but to convert to standard hydraulic struts.

If there’s more factors to add, I get that the recommendations don’t quite work. Are you planning to use drop spindles? At a certain point you’ve gotta let us know about the whole enchilada you’re cooking up or you’re moving the goal post around.

 

[Big Mama]

Same thoughts here. Adjusting ride height sensors and using shock extenders are part of lowering the rear. Why not do it all at once? As for the brand of shocks it’s your call. We all have different opinions. I like Arnott because I’m using them now. Others like oem.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

The post I linked does have info regarding the front end. The wisdom I’m sharing in that post is ….

“You’ve only got to do it once the right way with a lifetime guarantee on factory struts. Jerry-rigging parts and sensors for an economy ride means you’ll be doing it again & again and have your top speed limited to 88mph or override the stability system at your own risk.”

If you are going to lower it, wouldn’t you want a strut with a lifetime warranty? If you’re talking about laying some frame then you’ve got no choice but to convert to standard hydraulic struts.

If there’s more factors to add, I get that the recommendations don’t quite work. Are you planning to use drop spindles? At a certain point you’ve gotta let us know about the whole enchilada you’re cooking up or you’re moving the goal post around.

Have you gone thru the warranty process?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

@iamdub do you regret deleting your z55? I think I came across a post of yours with this info and going to belltech struts/shocks.

 

[petethepug]

No warranty on z55 or z95, knock on wood. Used Koni & Arnott lifetime warranty several times. Simple as: Call mfgr, obtain RMA #, buy new strut and return broken part. Arnott used to reimburse for ALL shipping + costs

Specifically bought z95 from R/A because they’re no nonsense on warranty & returns.

Have you gone thru the warranty process?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

No warranty on z55 or z95, knock on wood. Used Koni & Arnott lifetime warranty several times. Simple as: Call mfgr, obtain RMA #, buy new strut and return broken part. Arnott used to reimburse for ALL shipping + costs

Specifically bought z95 from R/A because they’re no nonsense on warranty & returns.

Arnott lifetime warranty has sailed. Still $150 cheaper than gm depending on
Where I buy from. I’ll have to think it over on what I want to do. It’s a hard pill to swallow when I paid $7k for it.

I’d like to hear from people that like to mod their vehicles more than stock ownership.

 

[Big Mama]

What kind of mods? Lowering?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Replace the OEM suspension with OEM parts and put a pair of Hellwig sway bars on the truck, if you want both a 'modded' and a fantastic performance ride (for a truck).

 

[petethepug]

That’s a common thing to say about putting good money after bad on an 09 LTZ you paid $7k for. It’s actually just the opposite though.

My rig was stickered for $88k when new in 09. 11 years later I picked it up for $14.5k. Last year, after 4 years of ownership it got a new trans, all fluids flushed, $5k worth of deferred maintenance and it was only $6.5k to getr done.

The trans rebuild was $5k but the deferred maint was the parts cost from R/A. With the trans coming out all parts are bolt off & on with trans replacement.

If you want to drop it more than 2-3” there’s no need to discuss keeping the autoride.