What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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j91z28d1

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I just checked my box of parts from replacing the bad ones so many times I left the stuff to do it together in a box lol. I did use the pin clip on the top one, forgot it comes in from the bottom so gravity might not hold that in. checked for play, both doors are still tight. so the ones I linked to are good. just missing the springs and stuff. others could be good too.

so pic of the spring toolwith part number on the top right.

the bolts from right to left, 3/8x2in 5/16x2 1/4x2. and then the shorter ones are 3/8x1.25in and 5/16x1. 25. a washer for each and a 3/8 and 5/16 nut. the 1/4in drive 9/16 socket is my spacer under the bushing so it doesn't bottom out before pressing all the way in.

if you've got a 1/4in cordless ratchet it makes it way faster and easier. but do able with a small ratchet too.
 

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east302

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And I'm not sure what all has to be done. One shop told me you have tyo get into the kick panel and disconnect all of the wiring to completely remove the door away from the vehicle to get room to work.

The first time I did it, I left the door on.

The second time, I popped the kick panel off and disconnected the wires there. Maybe there was a straggler behind the door panel, but I don’t remember for sure. Pull the rubber boot back from the A-pillar and that’s about it.

I’d pull the door again as it beat the hell out of holding that door on a jack. It does give you a lot more room to work in with that door off.
 

Mean_Green

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I will NOT be holding the door balanced on a jack. If I try to do this, the door will be in a wooden frame of some kind suspended from over head with a hoist, maybe with an engine crane or some similar rigging. I will need whatever holds it to be stable.

I get the bit of using bolts, nuts and washers as a press, but not really getting using them as substitute pins. I don't see how that would allow enough room to work.
 

j91z28d1

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well the way I did it you'd need a very elaborate fixture to hold the door because it needs to be moved up and down a lot to get you room for doing the other one.

so you hold the door level but weight supported at the rear, tap the top pin out, at that point the door will move right and left without the pin. so the exact bolt goes thru the top pin hole but not the bottom, and it's thinner than the pin, so now the door and move all around and that bolt will hold it from falling off. so you'd then remove the bottom pin, jack the door up, and will Pivot on the top hinge with your temp bolt holding it from falling off. that gives you access to work on the bottom bushings. just watch the door doesn't hit the fender as nothing it keeping the bottom from moving left and right but balance. that's why I put a rag in the crack so they don't touch.

to do the top, it's just reversed, put a temp bolt in the bottom hinge, take top temp bolt out. lower door, to get room to get to the top bushings. just don't go to high and damage the bottom bushing you just replaced

if you got the stuff I guess you could pull the door off. sounds like a hassle. I did them 3 times in the parking lot at work by myself.

once you're done and the hinge is tight, no up and down play, if the door still doesn't line up with the roof line perfect, mine didn't. it was low from years of needing fixed. this is the tool I found that worked well to adjust the doors up. you need a socket and a long breaker bar for leverage, but it's small and fits in my tool box. the big ones the auto body shops use with built in handles are a bit much to store for me.
 

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Sam Harris

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I thought I remembered someone talking about difficult to locate blue interior seats, etc.. for the OBS..?

Anyway, just ran across this on FB Marketplace. Not sure if that would help anyone, and also how far away from y’all.
 

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97YukonNZ

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16846266267827700170016384413031.jpgHi
I broke a door handle off 1 morning a wee while ago.
A GM replacement is $159.00 from Rock Auto delivered to me here in N.Z. Better to go with genuine? As I see some of the other makes are considerably cheaper. 16846267914313278977762214060936.jpgJust in the process of stripping the panel off to have a look to see if there is some adjustment that can be made as I think it only snapped because it was not pulling the ratchet properly.
 

97YukonNZ

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View attachment 399878Pretty tidy in here!16846293690701944188455287468291.jpgOkay so after looking at that I decided that it looks like a pita!
So I have improvised using a safety hitch for a trailer safety chain.
Known as a Bundy job or Bundying it!16846298112968708311198533444188.jpgFollow me for more handy tips on fixing ur Rig :favorites37:
 

Mean_Green

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I have the driver side roller pin out. Not much of a job to do that. Just a bit of grinding and driving a pin with a hammer. No need to remove door. Will probably go ahead and drop the passenger side also. Getting the new ones in again might be different.

Reading some of the bit on replacements. Folks say the Dormans and other offbrands are slightly oversized and need to be ground down a bit. Doesn't sound right. They're only $15 or less each though where the GMs are $50 or so each. But the GMs don't have a way to retain them in place and I'm not looking at swaging them down again, or tack welding them. The offbrands at least have a groove and circlip.
 

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