What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[mikez71]

why is this only showing 4 channels? I would think these have a minimum of 5, my denali has 10

It's only 4 from headunit to amp. Also rear doors are connected to d-pillars.
I guess you need the luxury amp and you get separate D pillars and center speaker ('07 diagrams here)

 

[89Suburban]

It's only 4 from headunit to amp. Also rear doors are connected to d-pillars.
I guess you need the luxury amp and you get separate D pillars and center speaker ('07 diagrams here)

Where is the amp mounted?

 

[Doubeleive]

Where is the amp mounted?

under the center console. you can access the wire harness by pulling the cup holder out

 

[89Suburban]

under the center console. you can access the wire harness by pulling the cup holder out

Where the sub is, is it separate from the sub?

 

[Doubeleive]

Where the sub is, is it separate from the sub?

yes the sub is in the front part, amp is in the back part, when you lift the cup holder out the harness is right there near the bottom of the storage box
this is mine where I cut the anc mic feed

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/media/bose.27367/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/media/bose2.27369/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/media/bose1.27368/

Disable Bose active noise cancellation nnbs 07-14 yukon escalade denali tahoe suburban

since there is very little to no information on this on the interwebz these are the wires to cut to disable the bose active noise cancellation (anc) on the bose premium if you add a powered subwoofer and get feedback (hum), after I cut these I no longer get any feedback and all 10 speakers are...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[kbuskill]

@kbuskill thoughts?

Sorry, just seeing this.

The rear control being unplugged is why you have no rear speakers functioning.

The tweeters in the A-pillars are wired in parallel to the front door speakers, same goes for rear door and D-pillar speakers.

My guess is your driver's door speaker took a crap and needs to be replaced.

 

[89Suburban]

Sorry, just seeing this.

The rear control being unplugged is why you have no rear speakers functioning.

The tweeters in the A-pillars are wired in parallel to the front door speakers, same goes for rear door and D-pillar speakers.

My guess is your driver's door speaker took a crap and needs to be replaced.

Good to see you floating around here

 

[kbuskill]

Good to see you floating around here

Thanks, I still visit on the regular, just don't post as much.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Filled the washer fluid and changed out a couple wire stand offs that were broken, salvaged a few decent ones from the junkyard, then replaced a couple sections of wire loom purchased a big box full of loom and shrink wrap for like $30-40 off of eBay a while back, these clips you can't get separate you have to buy a wire harness to get them
View attachment 441336
View attachment 441337

Try these guys for the wire loom clips.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/G...rt=13&cat=64&show=45&page=1&search= Wire loom

 

[Doubeleive]

Try these guys for the wire loom clips.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/General-Motors-Clips-And-Fasteners-s/64.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=64&show=45&page=1&search= Wire loom

I have looked at every clip they carry before, they don't have the one that is a female mount and they don't have the S shaped clip to hold the coil pack harness to the bracket, I had one of those that broke also, I finally found one at the junkyard that worked.
almost all of my clips were brittle and crumbled when touched. I have managed to replace all the bad ones now I think. I just have keep my eyes open for them.
I still need the one that clips the oil cooler lines to the fan shroud, I just have it zip tied for now.
broken clips and leaks are a pet peeve of mine

 

[Fubar0715]

at least that's a easy cheap fix, just takes a Allen wrench

When I got around to fixing this - my solution was to get a mirror with the auto dimmer feature. Pretty sure it came from some Buick or GM car. I found the harness tucked up in the headliner inside the console space. That was my solution to the problem.

 

[Fubar0715]

Some jerkface broke into my car at our Airbnb over the weekend. They stole a few things like a high-end IFAK/first-aid kit and my freaking AutoCAL V3. I had just cut the foam out of an Apache 2800 case to hold the scanner and cables on Thursday, and wanted to bring the scanner with me because I flashed a new update tune Thurday night (basically a v2 of the 50lb injector tune, with some tweaks, and 91+ octane version & TCM tune) and loaded the v1 tune just in case there were any hiccups on our ~400 mile trip up through Maine, and back. (new tune works great, btw).

So, if anyone knows where a cheap, used, AutoCAL V3 can be sourced, and if I can mate the hardware to my tune files, that'd be great*. I emailed BBP about sourcing a replacement, and I'm going to reach out to my insurance to see how hard they laugh about covering the other stuff.

I bet they thought the Apache case was a gun or something.

I have my AutoCAL from BBP when I did my tune - happy to share/loan it to you if you just need to borrow one versus buying. Havent used it since loading the files to the ECM.

 

[Charlie207]

I have my AutoCAL from BBP when I did my tune - happy to share/loan it to you if you just need to borrow one versus buying. Havent used it since loading the files to the ECM.

You're a legend!

I filed an insurance claim, and I'm waiting to see what the results are of that. If they cover it then I'm going to just replace it with a new one. I tinker often enough that it's probably worth it for me to have one on-hand.

If it's not covered, then I'll reassess my life choices.

 

[Doubeleive]

the autocal has to be licensed for the vin, not sure if you can just slap the license on another autocal but maybe, they do support xx amount of vins
bb might charge for a new license not sure.
I think they will have the ultimate answer

 

[Pandabird]

My first order from the states arrived! Mostly ordered some pretty basic stuff like filters and a remote for the DVD thing, but I also grabbed a blank OEM GM key since it only had one and it was getting worn out. Well, thought I could clone it for cheap but since it's genuine it can't be done, needs the programming cycle with some black box looking thing that looked pretty bulky.
Ended up having 3 keys, two of which work as new and it's seriously nice not having to wiggle a key around and simply turn it. Still only got the one key-remote though, oops.

Anyone familiar with a kit consisting of a key-remote and a small device that's plugged into the port? Says it will work 3 times and will blink and you will need to do stuff with the remote to connect it. What if one of them is original, will it still work with programming both?

 

[Doubeleive]

My first order from the states arrived! Mostly ordered some pretty basic stuff like filters and a remote for the DVD thing, but I also grabbed a blank OEM GM key since it only had one and it was getting worn out. Well, thought I could clone it for cheap but since it's genuine it can't be done, needs the programming cycle with some black box looking thing that looked pretty bulky.
Ended up having 3 keys, two of which work as new and it's seriously nice not having to wiggle a key around and simply turn it. Still only got the one key-remote though, oops.

Anyone familiar with a kit consisting of a key-remote and a small device that's plugged into the port? Says it will work 3 times and will blink and you will need to do stuff with the remote to connect it. What if one of them is original, will it still work with programming both?

if you have a working key then all you have to do is have the blank cut, then insert the working key, turn it to run until security light goes out, then remove it and insert the new key and turn it to run until the security light goes out, repeat with any more keys. then that's it. done. no special equipment or extra programming needed.
you have like 10 seconds to do each individual key otherwise it times out and you have to start over.
do all of the keys at the same time back to back. otherwise if you try to add a another later the first ones will no longer work.
so if you have 4 keys do all 4 at the same time

 

[Pandabird]

if you have a working key then all you have to do is have the blank cut, then insert the working key, turn it to run until security light goes out, then remove it and insert the new key and turn it to run until the security light goes out, repeat with any more keys. then that's it. done. no special equipment or extra programming needed.
you have like 10 seconds to do each individual key otherwise it times out and you have to start over.
do all of the keys at the same time back to back. otherwise if you try to add a another later the first ones will no longer work.
so if you have 4 keys do all 4 at the same time

That's like omega ouch, especially when I know the transponders can be plucked out of the key itself and we have basic key cutting equipment (albeit for house keys) at work. could have saved like 150 bucks just asking around first. Oh well. It's done and it works (some handiwork was needed to replicate the worn key as brand new). Still need a remote for the wifey though

 

[Doubeleive]

That's like omega ouch, especially when I know the transponders can be plucked out of the key itself and we have basic key cutting equipment (albeit for house keys) at work. could have saved like 150 bucks just asking around first. Oh well. It's done and it works (some handiwork was needed to replicate the worn key as brand new). Still need a remote for the wifey though

the remote fob is a different process depending on the year, the 07-09 I think can be done yourself after that it takes tech2 or locksmith, etc

 

[Pandabird]

the remote fob is a different process depending on the year, the 07-09 I think can be done yourself after that it takes tech2 or locksmith, etc

To be specific it's an item I'm not sure I'm allowed to link to but it's on

Spoiler: amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-99156-Keyless-Entry-Remote/dp/B00Z7MN6HU?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Pm7IToYIAiaiTOYgPOZeXsl-qjcKc7WsPfAEGL0QN1v1Bi99GQPBKXNgGgy_qYYOVVPHB_ea7SqK3H7uD-TEkrrLmQvrmEoJSpp-DaOMG1uck3IjYVqt5HkLUhSE4L7zghkUcQTUAx7EQznzEFAeC4hO7YhCwrdrd1wANcjK_B3rcEgeOXpnbbxzjYnS5UaJOzPi8eBRZVgtiWfVFpLXFN5fq20nI8cT_qK3TeMLXqjo8UHC4cfEX-m_YX4EHsXV6yG5SVy3YnAXqRRnYE6b-y99MN90p6fho_JR3BsyGTg._C5t60wo_zuG2LlBdfBMa94aOojVukS3qK5gNmz0fmY&dib_tag=se&keywords=2011+chevy+tahoe+key+fob&qid=1730232897&sr=8-58

Anyways it claims it will program FOB's.

Basically yeah i have messed up by now and it's the actual FOB's that need a programming procedure, not the keys. Don't want to go back to these guys because they charge 75 for a programming cycle and trust me they are the cheapest around here.

 

[Doubeleive]

To be specific it's an item I'm not sure I'm allowed to link to but it's on

Spoiler: amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-99156-Keyless-Entry-Remote/dp/B00Z7MN6HU?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Pm7IToYIAiaiTOYgPOZeXsl-qjcKc7WsPfAEGL0QN1v1Bi99GQPBKXNgGgy_qYYOVVPHB_ea7SqK3H7uD-TEkrrLmQvrmEoJSpp-DaOMG1uck3IjYVqt5HkLUhSE4L7zghkUcQTUAx7EQznzEFAeC4hO7YhCwrdrd1wANcjK_B3rcEgeOXpnbbxzjYnS5UaJOzPi8eBRZVgtiWfVFpLXFN5fq20nI8cT_qK3TeMLXqjo8UHC4cfEX-m_YX4EHsXV6yG5SVy3YnAXqRRnYE6b-y99MN90p6fho_JR3BsyGTg._C5t60wo_zuG2LlBdfBMa94aOojVukS3qK5gNmz0fmY&dib_tag=se&keywords=2011+chevy+tahoe+key+fob&qid=1730232897&sr=8-58

Anyways it claims it will program FOB's.

Basically yeah i have messed up by now and it's the actual FOB's that need a programming procedure, not the keys. Don't want to go back to these guys because they charge 75 for a programming cycle and trust me they are the cheapest around here.

ya that's the dorman fob & programmer I have sold a bunch of those before. the programmer is only good for 3 uses so be sure to do it correctly the 1st time then you will be to do it again years down the road or something if need be.