Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
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Search around, lots of options.
But it's still a diy thing since it's just an empty can.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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Search around, lots of options.
But it's still a diy thing since it's just an empty can.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I have one from Amazon. About $30 a few years ago. It has the baffle plate and the metal mesh material, plus a 1/4 turn drain. The bracket bolted right up to existing holes on the alternator bracket.
I honestly don’t see much oil caught in it though. I get maybe 1/2 teaspoon when I remember to drain it.
I see it comes with the ball of steel wool now, that's good. Used to have to buy that separate.
I put this one on.. maybe it's just my truck, but it catches what I think of as a log of oil. a buddy put the same one on a ls6 c6 with the valley breather that is said to be better than the valve cover and it catches a lot too.
EVIL ENERGY Baffled Oil Catch Can,Oil Separator Catch Can 300ml Universal Aluminum Black https://a.co/d/3u0KJwB
I don't think it's anything special though.
the hose seems good, oil resistance. just not long enough for my app. it has an o ring on the can and an extra for the can and the dip stick. but I added some silicone grease to the to o rings and haven't damaged one yet and I check it often.
randeez
Full Access Member
not familiar with the elite CC,
the mighty mouse CCs i use have the filter on top, but they have a rubber disc like thingy in there when theres vacuum it allegedly sucks closed. i pulled them out and am just venting to atmosphere tho
if money is not a concern, I do feel like this is one of the better ones.
eliteengineeringusa.com
you need to add a vacuum port to the air intake at a high air speed location for the 3rd port so it has flow thru it at high throttle when there's no intake vacuum.
and then replace the oil cap with thru clean air side separator
www.eliteengineeringusa.com
I believe that's the best overall. but also over kill haha.
E2 Catch Can
Looking for oil catch cans and other aftermarket car parts online for your vehicle? Shop Elite Engineering for the best parts available today!
you need to add a vacuum port to the air intake at a high air speed location for the 3rd port so it has flow thru it at high throttle when there's no intake vacuum.
and then replace the oil cap with thru clean air side separator
Clean-Side Oil Separator
Looking for oil catch cans and other aftermarket car parts online for your vehicle? Shop Elite Engineering for the best parts available today!
I believe that's the best overall. but also over kill haha.
so you run it open? have ton looked at your fuel trims? mine go crazy if I just forget to put the clean size at the air box back on. I'm curious what venting it does.
mikez71
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Seems like that would bleed off some of the metered air going into the engine.. (blowby)
The intake 'clean' side being open would let unmetered air into the engine.
What would venting actually do?..
Maybe the fuel trims vary a little more?
So long as the blowby is consistent, perhaps it runs as well as stock? (without the oil ingestion)
The intake 'clean' side being open would let unmetered air into the engine.
What would venting actually do?..
Maybe the fuel trims vary a little more?
So long as the blowby is consistent, perhaps it runs as well as stock? (without the oil ingestion)
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as I understand, running it wide open is for not running anything back into the intake to be burned. race and drag car stuff. and then if you run boost street car you out the check valve in it, so under high boost wot high blow by you vent it, but then back at idle and part throttle it's back to running normally and running back into the intake.
on my truck when I forget to plug the clean air metered side in, I got 10-15% trims adding fuel pretty quickly because it's a huge vac leak.
on my truck when I forget to plug the clean air metered side in, I got 10-15% trims adding fuel pretty quickly because it's a huge vac leak.
last night I was reading a little more about it on a old thread on another forum, I guess it has no real benefit but maybe it depends on your build
Can I take the pcv valve off and replace it with a push in breather? - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards
TBI - Can I take the pcv valve off and replace it with a push in breather? - I was wondering if there are any adverse effects of taking the pcv valve off and putting a push in breather in its place and plugging the line to the tbi? Has anyone done this before? Thanks
www.thirdgen.org
randeez
Full Access Member
sorry i was just commenting about the top "open filter" and how it acts not open all the time.
mine is a large turbo, aftermarket intake, motion raceworks valve covers set up... more of a cake and eat it too situation, i wasnt real confident it would work but had to try with the best catch cans i could find. I have tried to mimic the factory routing. 10ans welded to the factory valve covers still blew abunch of oil out, pulling from the valley cover also resulted in a lot of oil. would pull vacuum from intake after throttle body with check valves at each can.
currently its just 10an off each valve cover to its own catchcan, probably going to up them to 12an when i get around to it. mine is more for crank case ventilation, the only reason i was trying to run a pcv was because i do street drive it more often than not but the smell/fumes arent that noticeable
How do I stop this from peeling?
ahh that makes sense that you're in a totally different Realm than our stock trucks.
back in the day they used to sell weld into the exhaust collectors big like 3/4in vac ports, so the Venturi effect or whatever it's called would cause a vac at high rpm and suck the crank case pressure out of the engine. helps the rings seal have read. but yeah.
I've seen race cars with 2 big catch cans inline to catch all the oil and then vented to atmosphere, I guess big boost and especially alcohol fuels cause a ton of blow by and thin the oil quickly. so it's ******* cans.
well the blow by you're trying to reburn is already be used, so your pvc system is really a bit of a exhaust gas recirculation. so in theory if you didn't route the pvc back into the intake, you'd get slightly more fresh air charge on the intake stroke. but how much effects that has on a daily driver that isn't trying to make a lot of power all the time, I don't know
the trick in the newer 2x clear. it's in a can but it's real clear. you have to pop the bladder inside with the hardener just before you spray it.
Park it in the garage.
But seriously, there are a ton of YT vids about fixing clear coat with rattle can clear coat.
Running the PCV back into the intake is solely an emissions deal.
That is why no race applications do it, they just vent it out to the atmosphere.
Cars had blow by tubes that dumped under the car up into the mid 50's before they started running them back into the intake.
They always make it look so easy
that they do. I have learned to polish clear pretty well thou from YouTube but it takes a long time.
my thoughts going in is if I'm not going to a body shop, then how much worse can I make it anyways. along as it seals enough to keep it from rusting, it was worth the try
