I will have it towed early Monday to the dealer, I should have took it back when I was just a couple miles away and they were still there but didn't want to make anyone wait on me
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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mikez71
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Does it smell like coolant too?
No chance I'll hydrolock my motor leaving it pressurized overnight is there?
I don't know forsure, just smells different than gas.
I don't know if you would. maybe you'd wanna. turn the motor over by hand or pull the plugs?
probably for the best but what a hassle.
try to do stuff right and then that happens. ugh.
mikez71
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Sorta good news, the pressure tester leaks by itself!
Good idea on pulling plugs! I don't feel like messing with it anymore..
Maybe I will send an oil sample in as you suggested..
Otherwise I'm just sitting back and watching the coolant level long term.
Sorry for the inconclusive exercise, but will report back once there is anything real to report!
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
It's not far, a few miles. Just head down until you see the bridge for San Luis Pass, and there should be a pull-off/dirt road before that.
You'll need to drive down some (potentially flooded) sand roads to get to the beach. But then it's open... Follow the beach back east to get away from the trash and mobs fishing.
I wouldn't recommend swimming there at all. The currents will rip you away. But, during the week it's quiet and great.
belair62
Member
This is unbelievable. Whatever "tech" did this should not be allowed to touch a vehicle except for washing them. Looks like they pressed the cross right thru the cap since its bulging ooutward and said ooops....oh well lets send it.
ya i've been mulling this over in my head, i guess i will take it up with the service manager on Monday I know they will take care of it I have been going to this dealer since like 1986 but it really makes me wonder wtf this service tech was thinking. I have some u-joints in my tool box that I bought a while ago because I was going to do it myself but not sure if they are the correct size which was why I decided to just have the dealer do it while it was there. Just gives me less confidence in the work that was done on the driveline period which is a crucial part and a critical one for me because I tend to drive pretty spirited.
Finally, had time to do the data logging for BBP a week ago or so. Received my tune files back end of the week and installed yesterday. For a stock SSV, what I notice the most is the improved throttle response and less of the trans search for the proper gear going up and down hills. I am happy with the changes, especially knowing the AFM was tuned out!
Bet one of the needles fell out of place and the cup was forced over it.
I don't remember when I was under mine last if they are like that. but older gm cars used a shaft without clips they used this melted in nylon in thru cast holes. when I was a kid I tried to change u joints like we used to do, pop off clips and hammer them out. worked without a 2nd thought but this one didn't move. later a old guy said take it to a machine shop. well we basically had no money back then for stuff like that, but I eventually did. watched them heat it with a torch to melt out the nylon and beat them out. then put new ones in. the shaft was never right again. I tried having it balanced, after a few times they said the ears must had been damaged, it passed their balancer but shook the car to death from 70-100mph.
drive shaft shop talked me into building me one.. it was very expensive to me at the time and nice looking but not much better in the car. I gave up and drove for years like that. young and dumb, no one to tell me any better haha. it killed everything slowly.
eventually I read somewhere the automatic v6 cars used to the same driveshaft as the v8 manual cars. so I hit up a junk yard, grabbed one form a auto car, maybe 20$ back then after spending 100s on nonsense. put it in and smooth as glass. after that when they stated vibrating from to much racing, I'd just grab another. later in life when I got my 96 tahoe, I notched drive shaft vibration in it higher mph, looked under it and saw junk yard marks they put on them, thinking someone had already tried fixing this, I didn't even try fixing it. back then I still had hooks up at dealerships and just got a new one. smooth as glass again.
I do u joints at work on industrial stuff, but I tell everyone to stay away from all that stuff in anything close to stock and buy new from the dealer.
i say all that to say the tech mostly likely damaged the ears beating it or pressing it apart. so that's probably why the new caps didn't go in smooth and broke.
atleast try to get the to install a new shaft, I'm pretty sure they damaged that one in the process.
drive shaft shop talked me into building me one.. it was very expensive to me at the time and nice looking but not much better in the car. I gave up and drove for years like that. young and dumb, no one to tell me any better haha. it killed everything slowly.
eventually I read somewhere the automatic v6 cars used to the same driveshaft as the v8 manual cars. so I hit up a junk yard, grabbed one form a auto car, maybe 20$ back then after spending 100s on nonsense. put it in and smooth as glass. after that when they stated vibrating from to much racing, I'd just grab another. later in life when I got my 96 tahoe, I notched drive shaft vibration in it higher mph, looked under it and saw junk yard marks they put on them, thinking someone had already tried fixing this, I didn't even try fixing it. back then I still had hooks up at dealerships and just got a new one. smooth as glass again.
I do u joints at work on industrial stuff, but I tell everyone to stay away from all that stuff in anything close to stock and buy new from the dealer.
i say all that to say the tech mostly likely damaged the ears beating it or pressing it apart. so that's probably why the new caps didn't go in smooth and broke.
atleast try to get the to install a new shaft, I'm pretty sure they damaged that one in the process.
presuming the snap ring was fully inserted to begin with how much force would it take to push it out like that? i'm presuming a lot
The power of the press... 
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Yes, the Tech-2 and maybe the apps have a PID for commanded pressure and of course actual pressure.
I got side tracked but I was following along with a guy on YouTube that used a can board setup to sniff out what data pack was being sent and returned from the ecm by scanners for finding pids for stuff like that. I need to get back on that. I really want to find the pids to add to tq app for simple use.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I bet they used a Spicer 1350 instead of a 1355 with the right retainers. This is exactly what happens when the wrong parts are used. The spicer kits come with an assortment of retainers of varying thicknesses.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Stop by the house Wes, I've got a pile of the right u-joints, the right tools (J-9522) and a shop press now. We'll knock it out in 10 minutes!
I wish buddy
bad news is a new oem one is no longer available
good news is a dorman one can be overnighted if necessary
