What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Sparksalot

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Here's another angle of the routing. You can see the new line that connects the transmission cooler fitting from the radiator to the auxiliary TOC. Some dumb GM oxygen-stealing mouth-breathing smooth-brained dork designed the dumbest thing for this system.

View attachment 373745
The same numnbnutz that have you remove the front bumper to change a headlight lamp.
 

iamdub

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This was actually a week or two ago, but I experimented with the wire loom from Hazard Fraught. I installed it on the exposed wires that run down behind the power steering pump:

IMG_0617.JPG



It says it's rated for up to 200°F. Either it doesn't get that hot in this area or it's underrated. I had plenty of idling and hard driving on it to get it heated last weekend. Next will be all these other exposed ones. The one I put on is 1/2" and I also bought 3/8". Might go back for the smaller stuff for the injector and coil wires:

IMG_0619.JPG



I should get some proper high-temp harness tape while I'm at it.
 

iamdub

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Haven't heard from my smog guy in 2 months, so I guess I'll be spending this weekend putting the stock intake back and stock tune back on, putting regular back in the tank and removing the physical ethanol sensor. Stupid commiefornia.

You gonna put that alcohol sensor back on? I know a guy that could use it.
 

89Suburban

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Here's another angle of the routing. You can see the new line that connects the transmission cooler fitting from the radiator to the auxiliary TOC. Some dumb GM oxygen-stealing mouth-breathing smooth-brained dork designed the dumbest thing for this system.

View attachment 373745


Did you try to unbolt the cooler from the frame to give you some slack?
 

89Suburban

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This was actually a week or two ago, but I experimented with the wire loom from Hazard Fraught. I installed it on the exposed wires that run down behind the power steering pump:

View attachment 373769


It says it's rated for up to 200°F. Either it doesn't get that hot in this area or it's underrated. I had plenty of idling and hard driving on it to get it heated last weekend. Next will be all these other exposed ones. The one I put on is 1/2" and I also bought 3/8". Might go back for the smaller stuff for the injector and coil wires:

View attachment 373770


I should get some proper high-temp harness tape while I'm at it.
Need to add this to my to do list.
 

iamdub

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Need to add this to my to do list.

I've been ignoring it for far too long. I've researched a bunch of expensive stuff from specialty suppliers but never bothered to see what sizes I needed so I never ordered any. I was killing time at Hazard Fraught the other day and decided, for $3, I'd give it a shot. I just did that one circuit since it was close to the header as an experiment cuz I was expecting it to melt, if not vaporize. It might not last as long as the original stuff, especially for those of you that drive your rigs regularly. But I'm gonna rock it and find out.

Now I'll have to update my sig pic. :p
 

Rocket Man

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This was actually a week or two ago, but I experimented with the wire loom from Hazard Fraught. I installed it on the exposed wires that run down behind the power steering pump:

View attachment 373769


It says it's rated for up to 200°F. Either it doesn't get that hot in this area or it's underrated. I had plenty of idling and hard driving on it to get it heated last weekend. Next will be all these other exposed ones. The one I put on is 1/2" and I also bought 3/8". Might go back for the smaller stuff for the injector and coil wires:

View attachment 373770


I should get some proper high-temp harness tape while I'm at it.
Is it regular split loom like I see or are you talking about woven stuff?
 

Just Fishing

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The hard line on the right (that's the transmission cool I'm referring to) won't go out of the hole my booger-picker is pointing towards.

View attachment 373725


Ohhhh those!

Yeah, those were "interesting" for me to get out.
You need the whole fkn line free, that means the crossmember under the engine/front axle.

I'm not sure if the front axle needed to be out or not, but the crossmember was in the way 100%

Once it's out, you can tilt it to the side and down and out.


there is also a little bracket on the other side, don't forget it.
 

Just Fishing

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fun day out with the tahoe.
I had fun enjoying my antiques and modern toys.

1656214047019.png


I'm digging the new front end height very much!

The canopy thing,
It's ok.
Good idea overall, I think I'll probably keep it.

The table was a fantastic idea.
It made the whole thing just work. :peace:


Also tons of grasshoppers.
Like everywhere!!


When i got home I noticed something in my wheels...
Apparently, there were a shit load of grasshoppers that thought my wheels was a fun Ferris wheel.
:poker:
I thought it was weird on the way home, I had a slight vibration.



Sorry I didn't take pictures, but it was nasty.
Picture grasshoppers still in mostly one piece, but their insides were not.
It looked like they gave babies to little maggots.

then my front bumper...
Well, lets just say it had wings.
Lots of wings...

Let's go with "Angel wings"
Yes "Angel wings"
:derp:

I hosed that shit off before it dried on there.

Also, that grill insert I made with the aluminum screen is working fantastic.
More eww there.
but it's not caught in the radiator!! :waytogo:
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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You gonna put that alcohol sensor back on? I know a guy that could use it.
Most definitely! I've needed to fix the inline I made just so I could run the physical sensor, one end has been leaking for quite a while, especially when it goes over the base 43 PSI.
Apparently the ethanol was eating away at the black nylon or something.
So I need to fix that before I put it back on anyway.


I just need to put enough miles on the dumb thing to get all the sensors ready for the smog check.

But the stock intake back on and the stock tune also... Put in 20 gallons($125) of regular, physical sensor eventually settled on 22%.
With the stock tune and virtual sensor, it reads 3.5%. .. close enough to Eaton or less that it's not ******* it off, I might have to put another $50 in to water it down some more though, keep the fuel trims happy.

Forgot how gutless it feels on a stock tune. It's noticeably slower, especially in the mid-range and it doesn't feel like it pulls at all up top anymore.
And the shifts are so soft it's disgusting, even wide open you don't feel anything...

Kind of forgot how loud the intake really was as well. The stock intake is ridiculously quiet in comparison. But I kind of wondered what this exhaust setup sounded like, but I can never tell because the intake was so much louder. Haha

Pretty sure I'll be able to use the Corsa intake box with the Whipple intake tube, the couplers on the factory tube and the corsa tube line up almost perfectly.
 

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RooTBeeRthe1st

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Just did some googling finally, thought I was Sol because my DieHard battery is only 2 years old and dead, I bought it from pep boys, right before they got rid of all of their stores and just kept the service departments.
Turns out advanced Auto parts now Carrys diehard, so hopefully I can get it swapped out from them for free!
 

Tonyrodz

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Just did some googling finally, thought I was Sol because my DieHard battery is only 2 years old and dead, I bought it from pep boys, right before they got rid of all of their stores and just kept the service departments.
Turns out advanced Auto parts now Carrys diehard, so hopefully I can get it swapped out from them for free!
Just bought my Diehard Gold from them.20220529_172226.jpg
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Just bought my Diehard Gold from them.View attachment 373832
Yeah, mine is less than 2 years old and died a few months ago.
I've actually just been running off of my yellow top all the way over by the washer fluid.

I was thinking about going with a Delco 48 months, and then I realized that it's lead acid and not AGM. And with all the stupid crap I do with this thing, I'm pretty sure I would end up knocking a plate loose inside and ruining the battery real quick. I think I need the AGM to deal with all the vibrations and whatnot.
As much as I paid for the suspension on this thing, I feel like I should use it, and I know I can, so I don't slow down for ditches and things like that haha.
 

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mountie

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Yeah, mine is less than 2 years old and died a few months ago.
I've actually just been running off of my yellow top all the way over by the washer fluid.

I was thinking about going with a Delco 48 months, and then I realized that it's lead acid and not AGM. And with all the stupid crap I do with this thing, I'm pretty sure I would end up knocking a plate loose inside and ruining the battery real quick. I think I need the AGM to deal with all the vibrations and whatnot.
As much as I paid for the suspension on this thing, I feel like I should use it, and I know I can, so I don't slow down for ditches and things like that haha.
Marine batteries are supposed to be more durable for vibrations.....
 

Doubeleive

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Yeah, mine is less than 2 years old and died a few months ago.
I've actually just been running off of my yellow top all the way over by the washer fluid.

I was thinking about going with a Delco 48 months, and then I realized that it's lead acid and not AGM. And with all the stupid crap I do with this thing, I'm pretty sure I would end up knocking a plate loose inside and ruining the battery real quick. I think I need the AGM to deal with all the vibrations and whatnot.
As much as I paid for the suspension on this thing, I feel like I should use it, and I know I can, so I don't slow down for ditches and things like that haha.
varta efb, I was just reading up on it this morning
 

iamdub

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Is it regular split loom like I see or are you talking about woven stuff?

The clean and shiny stuff in the pic. Regular split loom like what was on there from the factory. I don't know if it's made up of the same material. But it looks, feels and smells "normal" and not like the typical Chineseum plasticy rubber stuff that aromatizes Hazard Fraught. I considered doing the woven stuff. But it's too damned hot to be getting that involved. I'll replace what's missing and dry rotted and close the hood.
 

iamdub

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Good idea for the starter wire! I transferred the factory sleeve when I upgraded the starter wire, but it's not a good fit. That might also be good for that main power wire that runs along the cowl from the battery to the fuse & relay center. I think a lot of heat builds up there cuz that loom is extra crispy.
 

Charlie207

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Ohhhh those!

Yeah, those were "interesting" for me to get out.
You need the whole fkn line free, that means the crossmember under the engine/front axle.

I'm not sure if the front axle needed to be out or not, but the crossmember was in the way 100%

Once it's out, you can tilt it to the side and down and out.


there is also a little bracket on the other side, don't forget it.
Yeah, I had the both lines the make up the assembly completely detached from both ends and all supporting brackets.

There was simply not enough room to move the lines fire/aft enough to grant enough free slack to get the front hard line out.
 

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