What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

Laying under there changing the oil yesterday I was thinking maybe I should swap my lower arms just for the new bushings. Ball joint seems fine but might as well change it all if I was doing it.

That’s how it begins. Once you’re under there and start looking around, you get these wild ideas and end up buying new parts.

I have never seen any cracks above the stereo area- do you have any pictures of where that might be? And no other plans, all I've seen the cracks are the areas I added epoxy to.

In front of the speaker is correct. It hasn’t cracked on mine yet, but the clip that holds the front cover in place is a very weak point. I found out it was actually the cause of my crack above the instrument cluster. Once it went things started vibrating and the rest is history at that point.

 

[Rocket Man]

That’s how it begins. Once you’re under there and start looking around, you get these wild ideas and end up buying new parts.


In front of the speaker is correct. It hasn’t cracked on mine yet, but the clip that holds the front cover in place is a very weak point. I found out it was actually the cause of my crack above the instrument cluster. Once it went things started vibrating and the rest is history at that point.

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Ah. Yeah I don’t have the center speaker so that area is different on mine and not an issue. The other 2 areas where yours is cracked are where the reinforcements are on the new dash and I added the epoxy as well.

 

[alpha_omega]

Ok. Just checking. I would hate to see your brand new dash fall victim like so many others. I’m close to pulling the trigger on a new one, I just need to get my other hundred million projects done first.

 

[Doubeleive]

A little off topic, but anybody knows why I don't have the blue supporting banner yet even though the money came out of my account a month ago?

@Shaggy

 

[gooffeyguy]

That’s how it begins. Once you’re under there and start looking around, you get these wild ideas and end up buying new parts.


In front of the speaker is correct. It hasn’t cracked on mine yet, but the clip that holds the front cover in place is a very weak point. I found out it was actually the cause of my crack above the instrument cluster. Once it went things started vibrating and the rest is history at that point.

View attachment 349667View attachment 349668View attachment 349669View attachment 349670

I and I believe @Doubeleive put a block of foam under that speaker to help support that area. The grill cover pops off and the speaker is ******* down in the corners and lifts out from the top.

That tab we're talking about that's towards the window actually helps support the center of the dash. The piece along the windshield with the defrosters is a more rigid plastic and it has a trim clip that pops into the tab and actually helps hold it up and keep from bouncing. That tab breaks and the clip has noting to hang on to.

EDIT: hmm, S C R E W E D is filtered

 

[alpha_omega]

I and I believe @Doubeleive put a block of foam under that speaker to help support that area. The grill cover pops off and the speaker is ******* down in the corners and lifts out from the top.

Exactly! And like you guys I had some foam under mine in both locations and it still managed to crack the dash above of the cluster.
Despite using the foam support, some guys have issues with the sun warping or cracking the dash, but that’s not an issue for me. I park in a garage, have tinted windows and use a sun visor whenever I’m parked outside. I think mine was just on its last leg by the time I realized there was a problem.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

That’s how it begins. Once you’re under there and start looking around, you get these wild ideas and end up buying new parts.


In front of the speaker is correct. It hasn’t cracked on mine yet, but the clip that holds the front cover in place is a very weak point. I found out it was actually the cause of my crack above the instrument cluster. Once it went things started vibrating and the rest is history at that point.

View attachment 349668

Oh yeah, It always works out that way.
And of course I did make a couple purchases already.
But because some it never sent those tires, they gave me a refund that went to my card, so I had a $1,300 negative balance, figured might as well use it for other things.
RockAuto better keep sending me more magnets. Haha

Ah. Yeah I don’t have the center speaker so that area is different on mine and not an issue. The other 2 areas where yours is cracked are where the reinforcements are on the new dash and I added the epoxy as well.

So far mine has only cracked in the corner of the airbag that still needs to be recalled... But because it's an ssv, when I was ripping wires out and such, there was a little module with a key in it to turn the passenger airbag on and off, and it has a light on it but I never saw it to turn on when I was messing with it, so I'm pretty sure that airbag won't go off whether the seat sensor is triggered or not. So I'm not too worried about metal shrapnel flying throughout the cabin at this point, plus I haven't gotten another notification that they actually have airbags in stock ready to go like they said they would let me know.

I think my dash is doing okay all things considered. Off-road stuff is not nice to it, and it is parked in the Sun nearly every day of the week but I do use a sun shade, no window tint yet, still.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

TL: DR

Also, I started shopping for rebuild kits for the rear end since I have that leaking seal, might as well rebuild the whole thing and put an Auburn Select-a-loc diff in it. Anyone rebuild their rear end?
And now if I'm going to be in there doing all of that, maybe change to a 3.55 or maybe even 3.73(but that'll kill my mpg at 70+ crossing the country) I think I'd be pushing almost 2,000 RPM instead of 1700 like the 3.42's.

The only reason I even think about it is because the slightly larger tires and it's a dog off the line until about 4000 RPM...
All that being said, I'm sure I'm overthinking things especially given that once the blower goes on it'll be making a lot more torque and will make the converter seem like it has a higher stall which should alleviate any of that 0-30 sluggishness.

Ashamed these front diffs are glass. I would love to be able to plop a locker in that thing as well. Just like adding a winch down the line, the stuff I do I would likely never need it, but it would be really good to know that I have it if I did.
So I'll likely just wait on the gears as I'll probably be happy with them in the end.





Also starting to look into mounting the trans cooler sort of lower and behind the bumper with a fan on it especially once I have to put the after cooler in front of the condenser and radiator.

 

[Rocket Man]

TL: DR

Also, I started shopping for rebuild kits for the rear end since I have that leaking seal, might as well rebuild the whole thing and put an Auburn Select-a-loc diff in it. Anyone rebuild their rear end?
And now if I'm going to be in there doing all of that, maybe change to a 3.55 or maybe even 3.73(but that'll kill my mpg at 70+ crossing the country) I think I'd be pushing almost 2,000 RPM instead of 1700 like the 3.42's.

The only reason I even think about it is because the slightly larger tires and it's a dog off the line until about 4000 RPM...
All that being said, I'm sure I'm overthinking things especially given that once the blower goes on it'll be making a lot more torque and will make the converter seem like it has a higher stall which should alleviate any of that 0-30 sluggishness.

Ashamed these front diffs are glass. I would love to be able to plop a locker in that thing as well. Just like adding a winch down the line, the stuff I do I would likely never need it, but it would be really good to know that I have it if I did.
So I'll likely just wait on the gears as I'll probably be happy with them in the end.





Also starting to look into mounting the trans cooler sort of lower and behind the bumper with a fan on it especially once I have to put the after cooler in front of the condenser and radiator.

I don’t think the front diffs are weak. I broke mine because of a hard launch in reverse with AWD and power adders. It apparently twisted the housing in the mounts due to the fact it wasn’t braced for that much torque in the opposite direction as normal. I mean, who launches in reverse?

 

[Doubeleive]

the dash cracking is not from the sun, it's just bad plastic period, age and vibration is what does it. I have put epoxy around the center speaker clip mounts in addition to a bottom support to try and prevent more cracking but eventually I will just have to replace it. These dash are not like the old style that would curl and peel from the sun.

 

[gooffeyguy]

TL: DR

Also, I started shopping for rebuild kits for the rear end since I have that leaking seal, might as well rebuild the whole thing and put an Auburn Select-a-loc diff in it. Anyone rebuild their rear end?
And now if I'm going to be in there doing all of that, maybe change to a 3.55 or maybe even 3.73(but that'll kill my mpg at 70+ crossing the country) I think I'd be pushing almost 2,000 RPM instead of 1700 like the 3.42's.

The only reason I even think about it is because the slightly larger tires and it's a dog off the line until about 4000 RPM...
All that being said, I'm sure I'm overthinking things especially given that once the blower goes on it'll be making a lot more torque and will make the converter seem like it has a higher stall which should alleviate any of that 0-30 sluggishness.

Ashamed these front diffs are glass. I would love to be able to plop a locker in that thing as well. Just like adding a winch down the line, the stuff I do I would likely never need it, but it would be really good to know that I have it if I did.
So I'll likely just wait on the gears as I'll probably be happy with them in the end.





Also starting to look into mounting the trans cooler sort of lower and behind the bumper with a fan on it especially once I have to put the after cooler in front of the condenser and radiator.

If you're 4wd you will need to change the front ring and pinion gears to match also.

I have 4.10s in the 02 mustang and it runs around 2200-2300 rpm at 70 on the highway, but the 4.6 motor makes power higher in the rpms anyway.

 

[Rocket Man]

the dash cracking is not from the sun, it's just bad plastic period, age and vibration is what does it. I have put epoxy around the center speaker clip mounts in addition to a bottom support to try and prevent more cracking but eventually I will just have to replace it. These dash are not like the old style that would curl and peel from the sun.

The NBS dashes last forever though. I have removed, painted and reinstalled mine twice and it's still strong at nearly 20 years old. Still looks like new.

 

[Sparksalot]

I really was hoping to get a hoe with a push bar, but at this point I'm glad I didn't. It definitely creates an approach angle issue, and I think I would have had a tough time getting rid of it's looks/function for off-road function.
Down the road I'm looking to build a bumper that'll house a winch nicely without sticking out 1 foot off the front like most seem to.

Finding a bumper for a Hoe is a challenge. I had a bumper kit bookmarked but can’t find it now.

 

[iamdub]

And now if I'm going to be in there doing all of that, maybe change to a 3.55 or maybe even 3.73(but that'll kill my mpg at 70+ crossing the country) I think I'd be pushing almost 2,000 RPM instead of 1700 like the 3.42's.

It might not affect your MPG as much as you'd think. Mine has the 3.73 and I get 22-23MPG at 70 and 21-22MPG at 75. Stock 32" tire size. Your 6th gear ratio is .67, my 4th gear is .70.

 

[George B]

Was able to hear the after blow feature for the HVAC running that I turned on with my tech2.

 

[Doubeleive]

Was able to hear the after blow feature for the HVAC running that I turned on with my tech2.

lol couldn't resist

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

lol couldn't resist

Weirdo…

 

[Tonyrodz]

WTH??

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

If you're 4wd you will need to change the front ring and pinion gears to match also.

I have 4.10s in the 02 mustang and it runs around 2200-2300 rpm at 70 on the highway, but the 4.6 motor makes power higher in the rpms anyway.

Yeah I know, I haven't looked recently, but I think my ring and pinion choices were only limited by what's available for the front essentially.

Finding a bumper for a Hoe is a challenge. I had a bumper kit bookmarked but can’t find it now.

Yeah, all the ones that I've seen are big and or ugly, and way over freaking price.
If I don't build it myself I'll just have my buddy make one out of sheet metal most likely.
Try and keep it high and tight but still have provisions for a winch, front plate, and some tow points.

It might not affect your MPG as much as you'd think. Mine has the 3.73 and I get 22-23MPG at 70 and 21-22MPG at 75. Stock 32" tire size. Your 6th gear ratio is .67, my 4th gear is .70.

I mean, I already get garbage for MPG anyway, and around town it is what it is. But if I end up doing 1300-2500mi(each way) a little bit of fuel economy at high speed can go a long way.
I already need to get my new tires rebalanced. They shake like a mofo between 70-80

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Mmm

WTH??

Exactly….