Well....Just tried to cycle the e-brake in our 2013 and it is bound up somewhere. Guess I have a new project.
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Aha, the adjuster, I see now.That's the for the parking brake shoes.
Well....Just tried to cycle the e-brake in our 2013 and it is bound up somewhere. Guess I have a new project.
Well....Just tried to cycle the e-brake in our 2013 and it is bound up somewhere. Guess I have a new project.
I would think so. I believe @swathdiver uses it with his ACDelco dexos synthetic oilIs the K&N suitable for synthetic oil?
I do this as well. Though my mechanic tells me the parking pawl is super strong and there’s no need to do this. Do you have another opinion?One of these days I want to replace the actuator and cables, not too expensive or hard to do. I want the truck to hold with a trailer on at an incline such as a boat ramp if needs be. Too much movement now and my foot goes close to the floor as it is. Was supposed to do it a few months ago but was running out of patience and time. We use it all the time to protect the parking pawl inside the transmission.
If I park on any significant slope, I use the parking brake. I would rather not trust the parking pawl.I do this as well. Though my mechanic tells me the parking pawl is super strong and there’s no need to do this. Do you have another opinion?
Maybe true but that load goes somewhere. Like the motor and trans mounts.I do this as well. Though my mechanic tells me the parking pawl is super strong and there’s no need to do this. Do you have another opinion?
Same here.If I park on any significant slope, I use the parking brake. I would rather not trust the parking pawl.
X2. Definitely. My driveway has enough incline that I always use it there.Maybe true but that load goes somewhere. Like the motor and trans mounts.
I use mine on steep inclines both nose up and down. I hate the snap sound of the parking pawl when shifting out of park.
Which A/T were you running?Dropped down from 275/55 a/t to a 285/50 highway tread and more year round friendly.![]()
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I had Pirreli atrs. The old tread design. I traded my used 420v's and the used Pirreli's for this new set of Cooper HT Plus.Which A/T were you running?
I like these. What rim is that?Dropped down from 275/55 a/t to a 285/50 highway tread and more year round friendly.![]()
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I guess you don’t have a diff up there to worry about. Or CV axles.Took it for a shakedown run and to test the exhaust, then to get dinner, then to Walmart.
The mufflers are actually quieter than before, when I had cats, as I thought they should be. I just couldn't figure out how having an extra 22" of muffler wouldn't make much a difference. The noise is what little leaks past the cutout since it doesn't seal up 100%. I stuffed a couple wadded-up rags in it and went for a test drive. It was almost as quiet as stock. I floored it and, as expected, the rags shot out somewhere around 5,000 RPM and the noise was back. I turned around to retrieve the rags and went home, satisfied that all that muffler work actually was a success. I have a plan and parts to move forward in this, but it can wait until cooler weather.
... Besides, I now have something much more pressing to be concerned with:
A couple hours ago, on my way back from Walmart, I turned onto the road that my street is off of. As I accelerated, I heard and a sharp clunk and felt it in the steering wheel. I slowed and looked in the mirror to see if I ran over something, but the road was clear. I let it idle forward and could hear an intermittent clinking. Stopped and revved it in neutral to see if it was the trans- nope. It only does it when rolling. I idled the ~3/8 mile home and parked it. I'll pull the front wheels tomorrow and assess. It's either a blown hub or a broken hub bolt. The hubs have always felt and sounded fine, so I doubt one would just go from fine to this bad with no warning. I think I know what it is since there's nothing else up there to cause these symptoms.