the_tool_man
Full Access Member
That works in a pinch. Done it many times. When my new strap wrench gets here, I'll make sure it's good and snug.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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That works in a pinch. Done it many times. When my new strap wrench gets here, I'll make sure it's good and snug.
Derick
Full Access Member
Sweet sweet victory is mine.
So a bit of back story, a few months ago, I starting hearing really bad knocking/rattling/noise from the back end. It truly sounded like a heat shield was loose, or maybe a muffler stay. Anyhow, I had it up on a lift some time ago and pryed various things and found nothing loose. It sounds terrible in the parking garage at work, because low speed, and enclosed garage makes the noise like a bazillion times worse. Functionally, I experienced no issues. It was driving me mad. So much that I took it to 3 different mechanics (my trusted one included) and they couldn't hear it, or figure it out. I live in indiana, so weather has been a bit nuts for me lately, so diagnosing myself isn't possible in the cold because my garage just barely fits my honda accord - much less the burb. So it was 58 yesterday and about 60 today, so it was time to tackle all the little things I needed to do on the burb, including finding this noise. My mechanic who replaced the torque converter last week thought it was maybe the shocks, and I should note I put brand new billsteins on....when you might ask? oh about a few months ago. See where I'm going with this?
I get the rear jacked up and pull off the wheel, and when I throw my box end on the inside nut, it was loose. Like really freakin loose. The bolt rattling around inside the mount, mind you...not the nut. So I heave and ** and get the nut and bolt out and remove the shock. I place the replacement shock that I had grabbed in there, and it was a loose as the billstein. Hmm. So I go to the bolt and nut, and sure enough, the nut only gets about 1/2" onto the threads before completely locking up. It was like it was cross threaded, but it wasnt. Corrosion, etc I'm sure is gumming up the threads. Anyhow, I throw the bolt in the vice, and run the nut up and down bolt a bunch of times until its nice and smooth, and drop a little kroil on it during reinstall. Popped the billstein back in, tightened up all the bolts with their new found smoothness, and boom problem gone. I'm glad it was a simple fix, but duhhhh why didnt the mechanics find it!?
I also replaced the front ball joints per my expectations. Remember to lower the car before you grease your joints folks.....dont ask me how I know
So a bit of back story, a few months ago, I starting hearing really bad knocking/rattling/noise from the back end. It truly sounded like a heat shield was loose, or maybe a muffler stay. Anyhow, I had it up on a lift some time ago and pryed various things and found nothing loose. It sounds terrible in the parking garage at work, because low speed, and enclosed garage makes the noise like a bazillion times worse. Functionally, I experienced no issues. It was driving me mad. So much that I took it to 3 different mechanics (my trusted one included) and they couldn't hear it, or figure it out. I live in indiana, so weather has been a bit nuts for me lately, so diagnosing myself isn't possible in the cold because my garage just barely fits my honda accord - much less the burb. So it was 58 yesterday and about 60 today, so it was time to tackle all the little things I needed to do on the burb, including finding this noise. My mechanic who replaced the torque converter last week thought it was maybe the shocks, and I should note I put brand new billsteins on....when you might ask? oh about a few months ago. See where I'm going with this?
I get the rear jacked up and pull off the wheel, and when I throw my box end on the inside nut, it was loose. Like really freakin loose. The bolt rattling around inside the mount, mind you...not the nut. So I heave and ** and get the nut and bolt out and remove the shock. I place the replacement shock that I had grabbed in there, and it was a loose as the billstein. Hmm. So I go to the bolt and nut, and sure enough, the nut only gets about 1/2" onto the threads before completely locking up. It was like it was cross threaded, but it wasnt. Corrosion, etc I'm sure is gumming up the threads. Anyhow, I throw the bolt in the vice, and run the nut up and down bolt a bunch of times until its nice and smooth, and drop a little kroil on it during reinstall. Popped the billstein back in, tightened up all the bolts with their new found smoothness, and boom problem gone. I'm glad it was a simple fix, but duhhhh why didnt the mechanics find it!?
I also replaced the front ball joints per my expectations. Remember to lower the car before you grease your joints folks.....dont ask me how I know
Derick
Full Access Member
yeah of course. There wasn't a whole lot of youtube before/after vids so I grabbed a before. Fortunately (maybe?) it wasn't chatty at all when I grabbed the before vid;
gooffeyguy
Tom
I use the strap wrench only to loosen it. I don't use anything except my hands to tighten it. They are only supposed to be installed until the gasket touches (no wobble when screwing in) then 3/4 - 1 full turn past that.
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
swathdiver
Full Access Member
A few weeks now.....
swathdiver
Full Access Member
A few weeks now.....
That's cause you started eyein' another gal in Missouri and gave her all of your attention! LOL
CHOO CHOO
BackPagePhil
I am always skeptical about leaving it so loose. I'm worried it will fall off and ruin my engine when it doesn't have oil. I hand tighten it, then use the wrench to give it a few more turns. Maybe 1/2 a turn or a bit more. I've put it on too tight once.....the screw driver trick didn't even work. I barely got it off without shredding it.
CHOO CHOO
BackPagePhil
I tried the k&n filter with the nut on the bottom this time.
camaroz2887
Member
Leo looks like u could have a dual alternator bracket. Not that I’m saying it definitely is but looks like it. Unless a previous owner had to relocate a pulley for something like a supercharger.
12BlackTahoe
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2019
- Posts
- 68
- Reaction score
- 46
washed it, squeaky clean.
you going to replace sheathing on your house, and run all your tools of the alternator.
you going to replace sheathing on your house, and run all your tools of the alternator.
......maybe lol
Nice job! I did put 250 amp alternator on mine.
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
I chose my words carefully. Snug, not tight. If it's over-tightened, it can leak around the gasket.
^^^THIS^^^
My daughter just had to have the engine in her car replaced by a "mechanic" who didn't properly tighten the oil filter when he changed her oil. I don't trust hand tight. That's especially true on the LS, where I can't really even grip the filter very well with my big, fat hands because so much of it is shrouded by the oil pan.
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
So pretty... I only got the 160 amp carquest one from AZ.
Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
Removed the old bumper(it was trashed) and oem headlights. Added new bumper(didnt fit perfectly like oem) and spyder headlights
gooffeyguy
Tom
Instructions on the oil filter or box say 3/4-1 turn past gasket contact.
I've been doing my filters hand tight (using 1 hand, usually only gets about 1 turn past gasket contact) on all my vehicles for 30 some-odd years with no problems or leaks.
Here's a discussion about this over on bobistheoilguy.com
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2759337/Re:_Proper_Oil_Filter_Tighteni
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
