What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Had a slow air leak in the left rear tire due to the TPMS being cracked at the stem. Replaced with a new stem without TPMS. Now I have the low air tire warning light on my dash. How can I get rid of this or disable the TPMS altogether?

You can’t. TPMS system can’t be disabled, so you need to either install a working sensor or come up with some kind of workaround as suggested above.

@Rocket Man figured out how to disable his system, but he doesn't know how exactly. That SOB just pulled a bunch of fuses while troubleshooting a transmission problem and his TPMS system has been chill ever since. I studied up on every fuse in my box that didn't have a clear designation and got nowhere. I'm wondering if it shares a circuit or is labeled as something else to deter tampering. You'd think such info would've been found out long ago, though.
 

XEALOT

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Had my summer tires put on. Did a full wash and detail of the engine bay.
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sumo

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Torched my siezed tie rods so I could set the front toe alignment. Also replace the leaking oil plate block off gasket
 

Doubeleive

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hmm, mine is clunking on a hard acceleration, motor mounts seem fine I held my foot on the brake in gear and gave it gas and the motor barely budged, both the differentials were recently rebuilt and it made no difference.
 

04Huck

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It would clunk as I was coming off the brake, before I even touched the accelerator. It seemed to happen more when I had harder stops.
Hmmm, I’ve got the same issue. Guess I’ll be doing a slip yoke and all new fluid in the rear end


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wendal

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hmm, mine is clunking on a hard acceleration, motor mounts seem fine I held my foot on the brake in gear and gave it gas and the motor barely budged, both the differentials were recently rebuilt and it made no difference.
Has it been doing so since day 1? Mine had been doing this since day 1. I thought it was a problem with a caliper or something, until I read the thread on the slip yoke issue, and how some people were lubing the slip yoke.
 

Doubeleive

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well I bought it used, but ya basically it has been doing it for as long as I can remember, it really seems like it is coming from the front but the dealer said the engine mounts are good, it had just had a new one installed before I bought it, then when they put the new engine in it got another new mount, when I had the differentials rebuilt I asked them to check the motor mounts also and they said they are good, I just haven't pursued it beyond that but I probably should before it causes some other problems, it will do it if I hard accelerate from a stop or already moving it does it either way. I could be doing 45 and punch it and it will clunk.
 

wendal

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well I bought it used, but ya basically it has been doing it for as long as I can remember, it really seems like it is coming from the front but the dealer said the engine mounts are good, it had just had a new one installed before I bought it, then when they put the new engine in it got another new mount, when I had the differentials rebuilt I asked them to check the motor mounts also and they said they are good, I just haven't pursued it beyond that but I probably should before it causes some other problems, it will do it if I hard accelerate from a stop or already moving it does it either way. I could be doing 45 and punch it and it will clunk.
That sounds a little different than what I had. I would only experience it when I would come to a stop. When I would come off the brake, it would clunk like pressure was relieved somewhere. I guess the nickle plating on the slip yoke keeps whatever in the trans from seizing...

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/slip-yoke-with-internal-or-external-snap-rings.67683/





http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/drive-line-clunk-and-fix.38275/





http://fortwayneclutch.com/product/1330-series-gm-26-27-spline-nickel-plated-transmission-driveshaft-slip-yoke-skus-2-3-01433x-5001433/





http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/nickel-plated-slip-yoke.72470/
 

93blkongreenpro

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Gonna try the black 1st and see if I like it. If not, I'll spray the metalizer.
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aflumb

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Well after spending so much time 2 weeks ago detailing the Tahoe the wife decided she didn’t like the wax on the drivers rear


Hard to see but the door handle had to be completely painted and right by the body line of the wheel well was scratched pretty bad. But only the clear coat

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About 30 mins later and only the door handle needs painting
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JG510

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I have a question on a 2007 Yukon SLE 4.8L v8. I bleed my brakes the other day because i wanted to flush out old fluid. I did the 2 person method, one person pumps 3 times, while leaving pedal on the bottom, second person opens bleeder then closes bleeder and repeats. I started with the right rear side then left rear, and everything was going good. As soon as i opened the the front right bleeder valve, alot of air came out and now the brake pedal drops to the floor. any suggestions on how i can fix this?
 

swathdiver

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I have a question on a 2007 Yukon SLE 4.8L v8. I bleed my brakes the other day because i wanted to flush out old fluid. I did the 2 person method, one person pumps 3 times, while leaving pedal on the bottom, second person opens bleeder then closes bleeder and repeats. I started with the right rear side then left rear, and everything was going good. As soon as i opened the the front right bleeder valve, alot of air came out and now the brake pedal drops to the floor. any suggestions on how i can fix this?

Jesus, Get yourself a subscription to AllDataDIY for your truck. It will have the complete process to bleed your brakes and a troubleshooting guide should it go wrong. I thought these things had to be done with a scan tool? Haven't messed with the hydraulic side of my brakes yet so IDK.
 

Doubeleive

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I have a question on a 2007 Yukon SLE 4.8L v8. I bleed my brakes the other day because i wanted to flush out old fluid. I did the 2 person method, one person pumps 3 times, while leaving pedal on the bottom, second person opens bleeder then closes bleeder and repeats. I started with the right rear side then left rear, and everything was going good. As soon as i opened the the front right bleeder valve, alot of air came out and now the brake pedal drops to the floor. any suggestions on how i can fix this?
were you keeping the reservoir full? sounds like you ran all the fluid out during the process
 

tsuintx

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I thought these things had to be done with a scan tool? Haven't messed with the hydraulic side of my brakes yet so IDK.

Scan tool for bleeding brakes? Potentially yes, if you are messing with the ABS, but if you are just doing your normal bleeding, there's no scan tool needed.
 

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