avalonandl
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Thats what mine looked like, mine may have been worse.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
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Thats what mine looked like, mine may have been worse.
swathdiver
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New wiper blades up front, Anco 31-22s.
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Just finished it up tonight but I did let it idle for a few minutes once I was done and it did seem to idle smoother than it was. I’ll know this week if it seems to run better. I would expect it would. The wires were original with 216k on them and the plugs had about 100k on them
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Yeah, that was the worst one of the 8. There was one other that looked almost as bad. Lol
Torx #25 is all I know for now.
Like the stock better.
I am so happy your oil soaked driver's side valve cover matches mine.
If you mean the flip-top caps that the bolt goes through the bottom half then the cap snaps over it, I decided against this style because I'd expect the plastic to warp, shrink, dry rot, etc. in the sunlight and heat and, eventually, the caps wouldn't stay snapped closed.
If you were talking about the caps that are basically a disc with a hex-shaped recess to fit over the bolt head, that would work as well but would need to be adhered somehow. They would also sit much higher off the roof than caps snapped into set screws that were flush with the roof line. Thread sealer, such as what is used on bolts that protrude into water jackets in engine blocks should be plenty sufficient as it is (obviously) heat- and water resistant. The flat caps I'd snap over the set screws would have a layer of adhesive sealant (windshield adhesive, etc.) applied to the underside to secure them as well as seal them from the outside. Windshield adhesive is designed to adhere and seal and not weather, so it's ideal. When I press the cap onto the set screw, the adhesive will squish out around the edges. I'd just wipe off the escess while it's still wet. The threaded insert will be completely encapsulated by plastic that's covered by body paint and UV-reflective clear coat as well as adhesive sealant designed for such a purpose. The flat caps would be maybe 2mm high rather than the hex bolt caps which would stand off the body the thickness of the bolt head plus the thickness of the plastic itself. The lower profile would be much cleaner.
Sounds good!
The problem is more common with electronics that are sealed in boxes with regular silicone. The solder and copper are more prone to react with the fumes released by the silicone as it cures. Used in an open automotive environment, the gases can escape. Maybe the problem is inconsistencies when applying the silicone that create air pockets under the cured silicone "skin" leading to corrosion? Maybe you don't apply the silicone excessively thick and you lay a consistent enough bead that there aren't any voids created to encapsulate gases. All I know is I've seen window frames rotted out all around because a leaking window gasket was sealed with household silicone sealant. Though, there are other factors involved such as the alloys in the metal the car body was stamped from and the chemicals used in the production of the silicone itself, all of which may (and likely) have changed over time. I'd still rather play it safe and use purpose-made stuff. Common household silicone sealant isn't as stable in constant outdoor environments as automotive windshield adhesive.
Okay!
spiritman
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I installed 6 LED 578 bulbs in my 2011 Yukon Denali. They replaced the map and dome lights.
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Nothing like LED’s.
wjburken
Supporting Member
Torx #25 is all I know for now.
I believe #25 is used on 5mm (metric) or #10 (SAE) machine screws.
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I am so happy your oil soaked driver's side valve cover matches mine.
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