Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I also have a tax ID number, but it seems they still charge me tax.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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I have no way of knowing, I’ve had this less than a year. But since the pump is doing fine at 80 mph, it seems unlikely it would be failing at 2 mph. At least that’s what I’m thinking at the moment. Maybe my logic is faulty on that?
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Yeah, that’s some great suggestions. Although I’m concerned about being featured on the next people of Walmart video LOL.
Looking at the prices of the parts the sensor and the control module don’t cost that much. I may shotgun it and just replace both while cleaning the connectors. Of course I’ll need to find a shop with a bidirectional scanner to program the module if I do. I am very much regretting not having the time to buy and learn a Tech2 before this summer’s expedition.
you have to change it to a business account, then be sure to enter your hours and days open including holidays or you wont get delivery's on the weekends by default.
if you have a regular account and prime it won't carry over the prime to the business account, business prime is like $150 every 6 months or something stupid like that which is why I don't have it.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Strange, I do have a business acct, and I don't ever remember putting in my hours. I get deliveries Sat and Sun. I pay the normal Prime price too. Weird.
I’m asking because I have a Land Rover LR2 that exhibited similar behavior when its fuel pump was failing. And it uses a Delphi pump as OEM that’s a very similar design to our trucks’ pump, complete with the built-in fuel regulator. It would run on the highway all day long but stumble occasionally when sitting in traffic or hesitate significantly driving around town. A new fuel pump solved the problem. And, the fuel pump in my ‘07 Denali started acting strangely last year when it was failing. No drivability issues but it would occasionally throw a code for fuel pressure too high.
I think you’re getting good advice for troubleshooting, and I’m learning about the other potential failure points I didn’t know about as a result, but I can’t help but wonder if it will all land back with the pump. It’s a common problem with these things once they get up in mileage.
I believe Dorman makes a FPCM that doesn’t require local programming, I think they call it something like plug and play OE fix. I have no idea how that works, but I am pretty sure they sell one.
Thanks, added to my list for the future. I’m sure sooner or later I’ll need it.
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ya it's a classic fuel pump problem if it stumbles at idle or if it surges at speed
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I would recommend one with a dump valve. Makes removal easier.Thanks, added to my list for the future. I’m sure sooner or later I’ll need it.
Thanks for that info. Might be good to carry one as a spare. It baffles me why GM has designed so many parts to require programming to install. Why should a FPCM care what the VIN is? In a proper design the PCM should be able to communicate with that module and command a fuel pressure, and the module just gets it done.
Oh joy. Well I'll probably just get that replaced too. Downtime is a big hassle when we're on the road because I don't have any spare vehicles. Plus I built this to wander far afield. Breaking down off-road can be a major event or recovery expense.
It's not necessarily that the VIN gets programmed to the module -- PCMs excluded, though -- the VIN is needed to be sure whatever tool is programming it has the correct options that are affected by the module, and that the correct calibration is programmed. Lots of modules can be swapped between vehicles with like options, at least for testing.
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FWIW, my money is on the fuel pump, especially if the FPCM is still sealed up and not damp inside. My logic for selecting the fuel pump is because it is a MUCH bigger hassle to replace than the FPCM. At least, that is always the way it seems to go for me.
I don't have an FPCM in my MY, so I will just sit here in the cheap seats and see how things progress. Best of luck.
Yeah they don’t do it just so it’s tied to a VIN. Same thing with door lock modules etc. Different vehicles have different options or parameters and they need to be programmed in. The VIN is just the decoder so to speak.
run by any auto parts or harbor freight and get a cheapy fuel pressure tester before you blow a *** on shotgunning it, the most typical problem is the fuel pump alone, you can connect it and stick it up in between the hood hinge and window area turned so you can see it while you drive. when that miss hits watch the gauge.
Good idea to order a retainer / lock ring if I buy the pump?
This was a Texas truck no rust. But it’s cheap and the last thing I’ll want to hear is more parts are needed after the tank is dropped. Supply chains are too ******* up these days.
LOL $crewed is censored.
This was a Texas truck no rust. But it’s cheap and the last thing I’ll want to hear is more parts are needed after the tank is dropped. Supply chains are too ******* up these days.
LOL $crewed is censored.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
I’d rather have it and not need it… but that’s me
Might as well, and the tank strap bolts/ nut clip things. They seize up sometimes and when you try to remove them they strip out. Sorry I don't have a p/n.
