Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[alpha_omega]

Ok, checked the exhaust manifold bolts. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the right thing, but a little out of school on this. On the passenger side, I see all 6 bolts. On the driver side, I'm missing the one closest to the firewall. Pics attached. What are your thoughts?

That one can be tricky. If you’re lucky it may still have some purchase once the manifold is removed. If not, a welder is needed. Luckily your block is aluminium.
If I had to make a gamble, I’d say your manifold isn’t far from cracking in the center. They all do it. In fact it’s such a problem that some manufactures started selling theirs “pre-cut” to avoid the strain put on them by temps and engine movement (usually caused by broken motor mounts).

 

[bobby2175]

You still rebuilding that truck Bobby? Got back a few weeks ago from mine, 3,194 miles and only popped the hood to add washer fluid and check the oil. Never had to add any oil.
Everything worked, one airbag light that resolved itself, she ran like a top the entire time.

@swathdiver !! How was your trip to monument valley? I expected nothing less from the truck!

I'd say for me, I have finished all of the core things you all have mentioned here and I'm just having fun tinkering and learning more about the truck...you know, I'm a little late to the party you guys have been having - maybe about 13 years late.

After I got the major repairs and PM done, I've finished installing my dash cam, installed the Diode Dynamics SS3 max fog lights (which are incredible), all interior LEDs, puddle lamp LEDs, and rear backup LED, bought an oil catch can that I still have to install, bought a replacement gear for the broken folding mirror but still have to do the work, have to figure out how to fix the broken lumbar support for the driver seat, just got back my powder coated spare wheel, got my @BlackBearPerf tune and finalizing what tools and "stuff" I need to take with me.

The truck is running better than it has in over 5 years and I'm feeling really confident in taking it down. I have one broken exhaust manifold bolt that I have to keep an eye on, but I love driving this truck again!

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver !! How was your trip to monument valley? I expected nothing less from the truck!

I'd say for me, I have finished all of the core things you all have mentioned here and I'm just having fun tinkering and learning more about the truck...you know, I'm a little late to the party you guys have been having - maybe about 13 years late.

After I got the major repairs and PM done, I've finished installing my dash cam, installed the Diode Dynamics SS3 max fog lights (which are incredible), all interior LEDs, puddle lamp LEDs, and rear backup LED, bought an oil catch can that I still have to install, bought a replacement gear for the broken folding mirror but still have to do the work, have to figure out how to fix the broken lumbar support for the driver seat, just got back my powder coated spare wheel, got my @BlackBearPerf tune and finalizing what tools and "stuff" I need to take with me.

The truck is running better than it has in over 5 years and I'm feeling really confident in taking it down. I have one broken exhaust manifold bolt that I have to keep an eye on, but I love driving this truck again!

Because of the embolism I had a few months ago, we decided to save Monument Valley for another time when we have a better understanding of my health. Didn't want to be in need of medical attention in such a remote location so soon after surgery. Instead we went to China, Nome, Cleveland and Buffalo all in one trip, all in Texas! LOL

 

[bobby2175]

Because of the embolism I had a few months ago, we decided to save Monument Valley for another time when we have a better understanding of my health. Didn't want to be in need of medical attention in such a remote location so soon after surgery. Instead we went to China, Nome, Cleveland and Buffalo all in one trip, all in Texas! LOL

Definitely health first and you're back on the mend! Sounds like a great road trip!

 

[bobby2175]

@iamdub - quick question. You were helping me with big 3/4 previously, but I just don't see getting to it before I leave. But the one ground I haven't cleaned up and I'd like to have some redundancy on before I leave is that strap that goes from the firewall to back of the engine. Is there an easy way to run a new cable somewhere to reinforce that ground even temporarily until I do the full upgrade after the trip?

 

[George B]

While I'm thinking of it, I *was* successful in removing all of the exhaust manifold bolts without breaking them on my 2012 when I did the cam swap. But the engine only had maybe 110K on it and was a dry country truck when I bought it, so there was no corrosion anywhere. I used Deep Creep penetrating oil over a couple of days before I did the job and they came out easily. But I wouldn't recommend this if you're not prepared to pull the heads because sure as the moon, you'll break one if you're not.

I was successful at replacing all mine on my 2013 but had 70k miles at the time. None were broken at the time.

 

[George B]

For your battery cable upgrade you can also have cables made by these guys. Prices seem reasonable and the quality is on par.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub - quick question. You were helping me with big 3/4 previously, but I just don't see getting to it before I leave. But the one ground I haven't cleaned up and I'd like to have some redundancy on before I leave is that strap that goes from the firewall to back of the engine. Is there an easy way to run a new cable somewhere to reinforce that ground even temporarily until I do the full upgrade after the trip?

There are lots of options. You can use that same stud on the firewall to run the larger cable to the frame or engine. Or, pick a spot elsewhere if it's more convenient. All the sheet metal of the body is connected and you just need a good ground from it to the frame or engine (engine is grounded to the frame in the Big 3). Until you do the Big 3, run it from the body to the engine as the factory setup has the battery ground going to the engine. I wanted more conductivity so I drilled the pinch weld on the cowl and bolted a 4 gauge to it and routed it to the original ground location on the front of the passenger side cylinder head. Actually, I repurposed the factory battery ground for this. Just cut off the battery terminal and soldered and crimped on a lug. For maximum conductivity, I drilled the hole slightly undersized so the bolt cut threads in the metal as I turned it:

 

[bobby2175]

Anyone know what type of screw will fit these spots? Was trying to install my oil catch can, but the screw that came with the kit doesn't work.

EDIT: Figured it out!

 

[swathdiver]

Anyone know what type of screw will fit these spots? Was trying to install my oil catch can, but the screw that came with the kit doesn't work.

EDIT: Figured it out!

So what size is it? Someday I'll get around to doing mine and this knowledge would save us some time!

 

[bobby2175]

So what size is it? Someday I'll get around to doing mine and this knowledge would save us some time!

I actually just grabbed various fasteners from under the hood to test size - I took a 10 mm that was holding this support above the second battery location and it fit perfectly.

 

[bobby2175]

Have a new question - I'm trying to get the most out of my Bose system in the Denali but don't want to replace the stock amp or head unit before I leave for my trip as I need to do a lot more reading about some of the issues like steering wheel controls, etc.

But I am interested in making a first step by upgrading the speakers and perhaps looking at the rest of the system next year.

First - is this even possible to make the system sound better without swapping out the stock amp? If it is possible, can you suggest some good speakers to upgrade to?

I don't really know anything here, so any advice would be great!

My kids and I spend a lot of time in the truck and we like our music loud, crisp and sounding amazing!

I'm good with spending some money on this if the sound quality improves significantly.

 

[swathdiver]

Have a new question - I'm trying to get the most out of my Bose system in the Denali but don't want to replace the stock amp or head unit before I leave for my trip as I need to do a lot more reading about some of the issues like steering wheel controls, etc.

But I am interested in making a first step by upgrading the speakers and perhaps looking at the rest of the system next year.

First - is this even possible to make the system sound better without swapping out the stock amp? If it is possible, can you suggest some good speakers to upgrade to?

I don't really know anything here, so any advice would be great!

My kids and I spend a lot of time in the truck and we like our music loud, crisp and sounding amazing!

I'm good with spending some money on this if the sound quality improves significantly.

I recently replaced all of my speakers save for the subwoofer with OE Bose speakers and they definitely made a difference in sound quality in my fifteen year old truck. More bass now too. Some companies in the past made replacement door speaker kits that bolted right up but are not made anymore. During my learning, all the aftermarket speakers have to be modified or adapters used to attach then to our truck, same for the connectors. Being quite ignorant on the subject of stereo system and having a hard time learning it, I stuck with GM OE.

 

[iamdub]

Have a new question - I'm trying to get the most out of my Bose system in the Denali but don't want to replace the stock amp or head unit before I leave for my trip as I need to do a lot more reading about some of the issues like steering wheel controls, etc.

But I am interested in making a first step by upgrading the speakers and perhaps looking at the rest of the system next year.

First - is this even possible to make the system sound better without swapping out the stock amp? If it is possible, can you suggest some good speakers to upgrade to?

I don't really know anything here, so any advice would be great!

My kids and I spend a lot of time in the truck and we like our music loud, crisp and sounding amazing!

I'm good with spending some money on this if the sound quality improves significantly.

I was about to tag James but he gave you his witness. My experience with my '08 was the speakers sounded great but a little weak. I replaced the HU with a Pioneer with plenty of sound shaping capabilities (13-band EQ). It's louder and more clear now. I've always done full sound systems in my vehicles but this one actually satisfies me as-is so I've left it alone. I did add a nice Alpine amp and sub for fun, though.

One thing to note is that the stock Bose system operates on oddball impedances, like 2.9Ω and others between the woofers and tweeters. So, replacing the speakers with the usual 4Ω ones would result in lower output unless they were super efficient. I don't know how the amp would hold up with straight 2Ω speakers. More output, for sure. But also would run hotter. Safest bet is to replace with new OEM speakers or aftermarket HU or both. There are other popular benefits to an aftermarket HU such as Bluetooth audio streaming and much improved back up camera and display quality. The features and functions are only limited by your wallet.

 

[bobby2175]

I was actually looking on crutchfied and came across these infinity speakers - Kappa 603CF. I noticed some people in the forums here talk about infinity positively plus I liked how they had a 3 year warranty. The reviews sounded encouraging as well.

Was thinking of starting with replacing the 4 door speakers and see where I go from there (want to do these before the trip) but can see going broader into the head unit, amp, sub, etc but won't get into this other stuff before the trip. My one challenge is that I won't be able to put anything in the trunk space as we usually travel with a lot of stuff for 7 of us.

These look like they hit at 3Ω.

Infinity Kappa 603CF

Kappa Series 6-1/2" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

Do you think these would make a difference and with the included wiring harness and some minor mods - are these an easy install?

 

[iamdub]

I was actually looking on crutchfied and came across these infinity speakers - Kappa 603CF. I noticed some people in the forums here talk about infinity positively plus I liked how they had a 3 year warranty. The reviews sounded encouraging as well.

Was thinking of starting with replacing the 4 door speakers and see where I go from there (want to do these before the trip) but can see going broader into the head unit, amp, sub, etc but won't get into this other stuff before the trip. My one challenge is that I won't be able to put anything in the trunk space as we usually travel with a lot of stuff for 7 of us.

These look like they hit at 3Ω.

Infinity Kappa 603CF

Kappa Series 6-1/2" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

Do you think these would make a difference and with the included wiring harness and some minor mods - are these an easy install?

I'm a fan Infinity, especially their Kappa line. Really, I like most all of Harman's brands. I have no experience installing those speakers so I can't comment on that. What I can say is if you're gonna have the door panels off to do audio upgrades, I'd strongly recommend sound insulation and damping. Doing this, alone (and properly), will make a drastic improvement even with the stock speakers, assuming they're not rotted or blown. You could travel rabbit holes for days researching the well-known brands (Dynamat, Fatmat, Kilmat, Second Skin to name a very few) and there are a few offerings on Amazon (Noico is the popular one there) that seem to be impressive underdogs. Resonix from Skizer was one I was really looking in to.

 

[bobby2175]

I'm a fan Infinity, especially their Kappa line. Really, I like most all of Harman's brands. I have no experience installing those speakers so I can't comment on that. What I can say is if you're gonna have the door panels off to do audio upgrades, I'd strongly recommend sound insulation and damping. Doing this, alone (and properly), will make a drastic improvement even with the stock speakers, assuming they're not rotted or blown. You could travel rabbit holes for days researching the well-known brands (Dynamat, Fatmat, Kilmat, Second Skin to name a very few) and there are a few offerings on Amazon (Noico is the popular one there) that seem to be impressive underdogs. Resonix from Skizer was one I was really looking in to.

Yes, for sure on the sound deadening. I've been researching it over the past couple of days and maybe I'll start with that and then move on to speakers and the rest of the system next year.

Question on the sound deadening - in watching several videos, I've seen some people cover the entire door panel and I've seen others stating you only need to cover 30%. Which is the right answer or is it somewhere in between? I'm pretty detailed in everything I do, so I'm good with covering the entire door and doing it right, but wasn't sure about the best methodology.

Also, is it true that I should wait for warmer weather for it to adhere better?

 

[iamdub]

Yes, for sure on the sound deadening. I've been researching it over the past couple of days and maybe I'll start with that and then move on to speakers and the rest of the system next year.

Question on the sound deadening - in watching several videos, I've seen some people cover the entire door panel and I've seen others stating you only need to cover 30%. Which is the right answer or is it somewhere in between? I'm pretty detailed in everything I do, so I'm good with covering the entire door and doing it right, but wasn't sure about the best methodology.

Also, is it true that I should wait for warmer weather for it to adhere better?

I plan to do both to achieve both functions. Covering the entire panel would muffle sound transmitted through the thin sheet metal while tiling would stop the resonance of the panel itself. Technically/scientifically, they're the same in physical aspects. But each has they're own purpose. I only wanna take the door apart once so I'd rather go ham while I'm in there. I'll use a thinner material on the door skin then tile over that with heavier stuff.

This kind of stuff typically does adhere better when warmer. Just see what the manufacturer recommends on whichever product you choose. It'd be worth it to me to heat up the garage to the ~60s or so and enjoy the winter project. Keep the insulation inside your house so it's warm, pliable and sticky until you're ready to install it.

 

[Geotrash]

IIRC, the Denali's have additional sound deadening materials and insulation already installed. I know ours are both very quiet going down the highway. I've never felt the need to upgrade the sound insulation in either of ours. Makes me wonder what the difference between it and SLT/SLE models really is.

 

[bobby2175]

IIRC, the Denali's have additional sound deadening materials and insulation already installed. I know ours are both very quiet going down the highway. I've never felt the need to upgrade the sound insulation in either of ours. Makes me wonder what the difference between it and SLT/SLE models really is.

Well, I'm going to go down this rabbit hole over the next couple of weeks and do some overkill with it because I'm a little curious and interested. My brother used to do a bunch with acoustics, so I'm going to give it a go.

I agree that it's pretty quiet in the Denali. I don't have much in expectations going in, but I'll see what's there already. The one thing I will say though is that when I'm in the Denali and using my bluetooth headset (vs the in truck mic), it picks up enough wind noise that it's ANC distorts my voice so that people on the other side cannot clearly understand me. When I'm in my wife's Acura, I don't have this issue. I'm sure it's nothing and I'll make little progress here, but if sounds like a fun project.

Are there better mics than the stock mic when using bluetooth in the Yukon? Even that one sounds terrible on the other side.

Are phone app dB apps accurate enough to do a before and after?