Upper Bal Joint Replacement?

[EddieC]

How hard is it to replace upper ball joint in '08 Tahoe?
I am seeing that it is generally sold with and installed on a new control ar,
Hardware is looking a bit rustly which might complicate the job.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

It might be best to change both the control arm and ball joint together.

 

[EddieC]

It might be best to change both the control arm and ball joint together.

That seems to be how the parts I see are found.

 

[swathdiver]

How hard is it to replace upper ball joint in '08 Tahoe?
I am seeing that it is generally sold with and installed on a new control ar,
Hardware is looking a bit rustly which might complicate the job.

You replace the whole upper control arm, the ball joints are not replaceable. If you live up north, be prepared to cut the bolts, otherwise, PB Blaster a couple times a few days before you get started should get the bolts out. When we did ours back in May, the upper ball joints popped out of the knuckle, but the lowers required force to remove. Not a hard job, my teenage daughters helped me.

 

[OR VietVet]

IMO, if I am going to tear down that far, I would do the upper and lower complete arms on both sides. Align and post a pic of the before and after alignment readings.

 

[EddieC]

You replace the whole upper control arm, the ball joints are not replaceable. If you live up north, be prepared to cut the bolts, otherwise, PB Blaster a couple times a few days before you get started should get the bolts out. When we did ours back in May, the upper ball joints popped out of the knuckle, but the lowers required force to remove. Not a hard job, my teenage daughters helped me.

Yes, from the condition of the rusty bolts I suspected some difficulty.

 

[EddieC]

Should I expect the second one to be coming up next, so replace both uppers now?
We're at 98,000 miles and the other feels ok but do they generally have a general set lifespan?

 

[swathdiver]

Should I expect the second one to be coming up next, so replace both uppers now?
We're at 98,000 miles and the other feels ok but do they generally have a general set lifespan?

I put up a post about this very question some years ago and the general consensus is that they are worn out by about 150K miles. My right upper started going bad at around 122K, or rather, that's when I noticed it going bad!

Yes, you could do just what needs doing and not replace everything at once, did my hubs that way, about 20K miles apart. With a dial indicator you can test all four with a jack stand and floor jack, movement should be no more than 1 millimeter.

If this truck is a long time keeper, use GM OE parts. ACDelco Professional or Moog CK series are good for at least 50K miles and likely double that. If you're going to sell it tomorrow, Moog's RK series will save you quite a bit of money. Of course, if you're going to be running baja races with Ford Raptors, I doubt even the best will last that long!

 

[Tonyv__]

Should I expect the second one to be coming up next, so replace both uppers now?
We're at 98,000 miles and the other feels ok but do they generally have a general set lifespan?

I’m at 59k on my 15 Yukon and the mechanic has told me more than once that my ball joints are still “within spec” but should be replaced in the near future.

 

[EddieC]

I’m at 59k on my 15 Yukon and the mechanic has told me more than once that my ball joints are still “within spec” but should be replaced in the near future.

Geeze, I remember my '57 Chevy seemed to have a million miles and were ok but I guess it weighed a lot less.

 

[Tonyv__]

Geeze, I remember my '57 Chevy seemed to have a million miles and were ok but I guess it weighed a lot less.

I don’t know. Somethings fishy or the stock ones are crap. I’ve only ever done ball joints on cars that have over 100k miles.. apparently one of my uppers have already been changed from the factory aluminum control arm to steel… I’ve only had the truck for a little over a year and like 8k miles. So I don’t know much about it’s history. I’m probably gonna do all 4 soon anyway just to get it out of the way

 

[OR VietVet]

Geeze, I remember my '57 Chevy seemed to have a million miles and were ok but I guess it weighed a lot less.

Different 2wd suspension too.

 

[89Suburban]

If your mounting bolts are frozen these will be your best friend, trust me:

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[EddieC]

If your mounting bolts are frozen these will be your best friend, trust me:

DIABLO 6 in. 8 TPI Steel Demon AMPED Carbide Reciprocating Saw Blade for Thick Metal Cutting DS0608CFA - The Home Depot

Get an essential and ultimate addition to your drilling performance with this Diablo Steel Demon Carbide-Tipped Thick Metal Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade.

www.homedepot.com

Frozen? The rust had claimed all the threads. Our state saves us money on not paying plow workers in exchange for all our rusted out vehicles. You'd think it was the 60s and 70s all over.

 

[EddieC]

I don’t know. Somethings fishy or the stock ones are crap. I’ve only ever done ball joints on cars that have over 100k miles.. apparently one of my uppers have already been changed from the factory aluminum control arm to steel… I’ve only had the truck for a little over a year and like 8k miles. So I don’t know much about it’s history. I’m probably gonna do all 4 soon anyway just to get it out of the way

That's interesting. Only my lower control arms are alloy.

 

[89Suburban]

Frozen? The rust had claimed all the threads. Our state saves us money on not paying plow workers in exchange for all our rusted out vehicles. You'd think it was the 60s and 70s all over.

I had no visible rust whatsoever and the bolts shanks were frozen in the bushings. Nuts came off fine. I had to cut the bolt heads off. Then use a pry bar to get enough of a gap to get that blade between the frame mounts and the bushings to cut it loose.

 

[GO0BER]

I put up a post about this very question some years ago and the general consensus is that they are worn out by about 150K miles. My right upper started going bad at around 122K, or rather, that's when I noticed it going bad!

Yes, you could do just what needs doing and not replace everything at once, did my hubs that way, about 20K miles apart. With a dial indicator you can test all four with a jack stand and floor jack, movement should be no more than 1 millimeter.

If this truck is a long time keeper, use GM OE parts. ACDelco Professional or Moog CK series are good for at least 50K miles and likely double that. If you're going to sell it tomorrow, Moog's RK series will save you quite a bit of money. Of course, if you're going to be running baja races with Ford Raptors, I doubt even the best will last that long!

oof.. reviving an old thread here in hopes I can get some extra info

I have an 08 Yukon XL 2500 with 4x4. I went to have an alignment done and was told my passenger side upper ball joint and tie rod are bad enough they couldn't/wouldn't do the alignment but they weren't "unsafe" yet.

After reading this I started looking for ACDelco parts on amazon that are of the 'professional' tagging..

Passenger side
Driver side
Inner TR
Outer TR

These are parts that should in theory be factory or very close to?


I did wheel hubs last year (~8k miles), should I worry about doing anything else while in there now (I will be doing both sides so that I have equal wear side to side)?

 

[swathdiver]

I have an 08 Yukon XL 2500 with 4x4. I went to have an alignment done and was told my passenger side upper ball joint and tie rod are bad enough they couldn't/wouldn't do the alignment but they weren't "unsafe" yet.

After reading this I started looking for ACDelco parts on amazon that are of the 'professional' tagging..

Passenger side
Driver side
Inner TR
Outer TR

These are parts that should in theory be factory or very close to?

Those Uppers in the links provided are for the 1500s. Yours would be 45D1083/19144068 for ACDelco Gold/Professional. GM OE would be 25905442.

Your tie rods are correct for ACDelco Gold/Professional. Don't forget the boots.

When it comes to the bellows boots, folks think a tie strap is good enough to secure the boot. It's not, it allows water to get in there and shortens the life of the tie rod.

I suggest also replacing the lower control arms.

If memory serves, Chris and Ken have experience with ACDelco Professional control arms and am sure would be willing to share their experiences with them:

@iamdub @kbuskill

Use GMPartsGiant and https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php for assistance in looking up the correct parts for your truck.

How are your springs and shocks and jounce bumpers?

 

[kbuskill]

Those Uppers in the links provided are for the 1500s. Yours would be 45D1083/19144068 for ACDelco Gold/Professional. GM OE would be 25905442.

Your tie rods are correct for ACDelco Gold/Professional. Don't forget the boots.

When it comes to the bellows boots, folks think a tie strap is good enough to secure the boot. It's not, it allows water to get in there and shortens the life of the tie rod.

I suggest also replacing the lower control arms.

If memory serves, Chris and Ken have experience with ACDelco Professional control arms and am sure would be willing to share their experiences with them:

@iamdub @kbuskill

Use GMPartsGiant and https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php for assistance in looking up the correct parts for your truck.

How are your springs and shocks and jounce bumpers?

I went with Moog CK "problem solvers" upper and lower and SKF X-Tracker Hybrid hubs. Zero issues. The X-Trackers are well recommended in the road course racing community for Corvettes and the like.

 

[iamdub]

oof.. reviving an old thread here in hopes I can get some extra info

I have an 08 Yukon XL 2500 with 4x4. I went to have an alignment done and was told my passenger side upper ball joint and tie rod are bad enough they couldn't/wouldn't do the alignment but they weren't "unsafe" yet.

After reading this I started looking for ACDelco parts on amazon that are of the 'professional' tagging..

Passenger side
Driver side
Inner TR
Outer TR

These are parts that should in theory be factory or very close to?


I did wheel hubs last year (~8k miles), should I worry about doing anything else while in there now (I will be doing both sides so that I have equal wear side to side)?

The "Professional" series is most likely reboxed Moog. I can't say if they'll be the CK or RK series. You do NOT want the RK series. Also, the Professional and/or Moog CK series has a lower quality boot than the original part. Myself and another member both had boots split very soon after installation. I don't drive that much, so it failed with little mileage. The rubber (or silicone or whatever it is) is firmer and more brittle. The arm seems to be fine otherwise. Still, for the hassle, I'd aim for GM Genuine/AC Delco OE.