Updated Thermal Control Valve

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akbrener

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That's a good idea, just changing out the internal components to avoid the coolant line connectors being different. Could someone check when they are about to do the swap to see if the thermostat itself fits in the new and old housings? If they are interchangeable I'll order one and just use my old housing.
I already swapped mine in, but just looking from outside.they are the same. They do make an aftermarket kit that replaces the guts, but i think it removes the thermostat completely. May be fine if you don’t get real cold temps in winter
 

trailblazer

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I ended up canceling my order for the updated valve as I believe I have the old style connectors. I bought the 1/4 NPT plug and tap to just remove that plug completely after reading that doing the “pull flip” can lead to blocking if it’s not inserted correctly. My trans guy made an excellent point noting that the 6L80-90 NEVER needed a thermostatic valve from 2006-2014 and that they only did that to get it warmer faster for better initial mpg.
 

Rygrego

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I ended up canceling my order for the updated valve as I believe I have the old style connectors. I bought the 1/4 NPT plug and tap to just remove that plug completely after reading that doing the “pull flip” can lead to blocking if it’s not inserted correctly. My trans guy made an excellent point noting that the 6L80-90 NEVER needed a thermostatic valve from 2006-2014 and that they only did that to get it warmer faster for better initial mpg.
I may be incorrect but I believe prior to 2015 the trans fluid shared the radiator which would have warmed the fluid when extremely cold, but in 2015 and on the trans fluid started sharing the A/C condenser which would not warm the fluid. I believe too cold can be almost as bad as too hot especially in the north. Again I could be wrong, but I don't think so. The new thermostat at 158 degrees is a good thing.
 

akbrener

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Yea, my 08 goes up by the radiator. Runs 150-160 and never seen it go above 195, even pulling a car trailer. GM got 1 mpg maybe by keeping it hot and thin
 

Doubeleive

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I may be incorrect but I believe prior to 2015 the trans fluid shared the radiator which would have warmed the fluid when extremely cold, but in 2015 and on the trans fluid started sharing the A/C condenser which would not warm the fluid. I believe too cold can be almost as bad as too hot especially in the north. Again I could be wrong, but I don't think so. The new thermostat at 158 degrees is a good thing.
they did add a separate little cooler piece to run horizontal across the top of the condenser in addition to the right vertical end cap.
 

Doubeleive

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I stand corrected, you are absolutely right. I was thinking the radiator was totally by-passed. Thank you for making me go out and check for myself.
I read about all that stuff before I bought my 18 silverado and then I added a tru cool 40k to it, removed all the internals and tapped the thermostat open, added a b&m deep trans pan now it runs about 140 ish mostly or less even beating on it pretty hard and that's far beyond how normal people drive. It's the same system on the tahoe, yukon, sierra, escalade, suburban, denali
 

Rygrego

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I read about all that stuff before I bought my 18 silverado and then I added a tru cool 40k to it, removed all the internals and tapped the thermostat open, added a b&m deep trans pan now it runs about 140 ish mostly or less even beating on it pretty hard and that's far beyond how normal people drive. It's the same system on the tahoe, yukon, sierra, escalade, suburban, denali
I added a Mishimoto cooler at the beginning of last summer along with their "pill". Haven't got the temp over 140 all summer. Gm recommends the trans be at least 155 degrees for fluid checking. I'm just assuming it's warm enough to check after I've driven for an hour or so because I can't get it any warmer according to my display.
 

BG1988

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I just went through my DIC options and for the life of me could not find trans temp? Found this video here:

At about 11:20 it mentions how when you press the tow/haul mode button the battery voltage gauge turns into a trans temp gauge. Is there a way to keep the trans temp gauge on the DIC or cluster without having to go into tow/haul mode?

Also, I just found out about this new updated TBV (Thermal Bypass Valve). According to the specs this new valve has a full open temperature of 158 F instead of the old one at 194 F. That's a pretty big difference! I'll be swapping to this TBV here soon as well.
it's safe

the hybrid is set to 158 temp as well

158-164f

it needs the extra cooling because of the motors


the only reason why it is set higher is because they need to make money off you with servicing you Suv/truck
 
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RLC2020

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So, After all this I'm thinking I'm just going to tap and plug the thermostat housing instead of flipping the pill or trying to adapt the new style thermostat to my 2015. I live in Florida and it never gets below 40 where I am and is generally 80-95 degrees out 9months out of the year. I'm assuming I'll be just fine bypassing the thermostat completely. Thoughts? any better option for us 2015 owners?
 
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