Project Carbon Next Gen 10 Speed Valve Body Kit - Finally Installed!

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Time will tell as I perform fluid changes. The aftermarket PPE trans pan has a drain plug with large magnet, so I will be able to track the fines on the magnet. The issue with the 1/2 ton V8 models is there is NO WAY to drop the trans pan WITHOUT removing the drivers side pre-Cat O2 sensor and dropping the front of the exhaust off the manifolds. The drivers side cross over is right under the transmission pan and will not allow the trans pan to be dropped and removed without dropping the front of the exhaust. So this means most of these vehicles will never get a trans fluid or filter change!!!

Not sure you can even perform a flush/fluid exchange on these transmissions with the internal cooler loop thermostat??? The older the trucks get the harder it will be to get the exhaust nuts loose and off the studs without problems. I put a GENEROUS amount of Anti-seize compound on the exhaust studs so I can hopefully get the nuts loose and off the studs in the future. This is one of the reasons I went with the aftermarket pan with the drain, I will likely drain and refill the trans every other oil change because I doubt I will get more than 7 qts of fluid out of the pan and this pan hold an extra 2 1/2 quarts of fluid, the stock pan you would be lucky to get 5 quarts during a filter change.

What I can say is I finally had a chance to drive the vehicle about 2 hours round trip the other day, had to do an airport pickup of family members. So this was the first time to take about 30 minutes of non Interstate but road that are semi rural with speed limits up to 45 MPH. Then went out for about a 50 minute round trip this evening on all surface streets, some semi rural, some more suburban.

I can say I really like the final outcome of shift firmness, not too firm, but far less flare and overlap, shifting is crisp and deliberate and I like this a lot. I hate automatic transmissions that they slip and slide the shifts so much you can barely feel them, to me this is just wearing the transmission out. I think the changes are with a slight pressure boost and the new shift valves and the separator plates and a few valve body plugs with O-rings that reduce or eliminate any internal leakage.

Would love to know if NextGen spent a fair amount of time and testing or of they got it right out of the gate from prior knowledge? But so far I am liking the end product, not sure when my next 4-6 hour trip will be but this will be a good test along with the hills and inclines on a route I take fairly often, this will allow me to get a better feel for the final result. I would do this again in a heartbeat based solely on the shift feel from 1st to 5th gear because these transmissions are shifting in this range all the time and very quickly around town. Every time you come to a stop and get up to 25-30 MPH, this transmission is shifting at least 5 or more times. Think of the transmission wear and tear every time you take off from a start!

Get rid of the Auto Stop/Start or turn if off, run the transmission in L9 except for speeds over 50-55 MPH, change the engine oil every 4k miles, the trans fluid every 8k miles, and if you are lucky, maybe your engine and transmission will last over 100k miles. Unfortunately they do not build them like they did in 2005, my 6.0 Vortec with the 4L80 or 4L90 has over 275k miles and still going, I did not maintain it like I am taking care of the 2024, probably should have, but being up in the Mid Atlantic most of its life the 2005 rocker panels are quickly fading away, otherwise I would be nicer to the 2005, but at this point it really owes me next to nothing, every mile I put on the 2005 is a freebie IMHO.
 
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2022-2025 Gen 2 10 speeds are pretty much the same except for the Diesels which have a few minor differences to include and external cooler loop thermostat that is set at a higher temperature than the gas vehicle.

 

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I was looking in the parts catalog and it looks like there is a fill plug for the trans on the top of the trans. It is the same plug as the side fill plug. I am not sure how hard it would be to get to, I haven't looked under my truck yet, but that would be cool to find a 90* fitting and a tube run up into the engine compartment to be able to fill the trans easier.
 
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I am aware that there should be an upper fill plug, but as tight as the transmission is on the gasoline trucks with the exhaust and front driveshaft on the 4 wheel drive models, not worth even looking for the plug IMHO.

Overall it is not very hard to fill the transmission with the side plug other than the exhaust and front driveshaft on the 4 wheel drive units. But not too difficult overall. Just beware of the exhaust getting hot.

If the transmission does not leak, no real reason to worry about level or needing to fill the transmission. Only caveat was what happened to me on my 2005 Yukon Denali where the AWD transfer case seal start to leak and allowed transmission fluid to leak into the AWD transfer case. The only good thing is that AWD transfer case actually used ATF so no issue with cross contamination, but I found out when I pulled the fill plug for the AWD transfer case and had a good amount of fluid to pour out the fill port!

For some other reason, the AWD transfer case ended up leaking badly so I obtained a reman unit and swapped it out and this solved the transmission fluid leaking into the AWD transfer case.
 
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Finally had a chance to really get on the road yesterday. 325 miles and no problems. While I was on the highway for the most part, I did hit some traffic after cruising for a long time where we ended up on stop and go traffic on the highway. This really outlined how much better the transmission upshifts and downshifts now. Fluid fully warmed up and ended up starting from a dead stop and shifting up to 4th or 5th slowly driving maybe 25-30 MPH, then slowing again to a stop many times.

The shift behavior is SO much more precise, without shift overlap or flares, downshifting smoothly. Overall probably how the transmission should shift if GM spent their time sorting the TCM and valve body out. Kind of surprised how well the valve body sorted things without TCM reprogramming. Maybe it is just learned shift behavior.

Yesterday was a highway drive with speeds up to 80 MPH and in temps up to 105F. Transmission temperature never got above 165F. Noticed that as you bring up the overall MPH the temps would creep up from 158-160. Also noticed a few times when passing or pulling a grade temps would jump 2-4F but then quickly drop back once converter had locked back up and trans was in 10th gear.

I have bypassed the transmission cooler circuit thermostat and also have a 2 1/2 quart larger trans pan with cooling fins so these probably help reduce the temps a bit.

I have purchased and will install an exhaust heat shield for the section of exhaust that crossed directly under the transmission pan that I will hope will help drop the trans temp a few degrees. Probably will not get a chance to test out the exhaust heat shield for a while, but I have to assume it will help keep the heat radiating of the cross over pipe from heating the bottom of the transmission pan.
 
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Added the heat shield on the the exhaust pipe that runs under the trans pan, seems to fit fine, but very close proximity overall. Hopefully it will help with radiant heat transferring to the trans pan from the Post Cat drivers side cross over pipe. I do not think this exhaust cross over pipe is an issue on the 2500 series and up and the 3.0l Diesels have a single exhaust so this is not a problem. Just the 1500 series for sure with 4WD, maybe all of the 1500 series V8 models.

4" x 1' flexible heat shield on Amazon deal for like $35.


Exhaust Heat Sheild.jpg
 
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Just putting this info out there for anyone that comes across this thread.

While the GM Authority article linked below is good news for GM owners, it just goes to show you how bad the original valve bodies are.

Additionally the title of this article is likely very misleading as I do not think GM Corp has partnered with NextGen Drivetrain. I think the person that wrote the article just meant that a newer generation of valve body has been released.

NextGen Drivetrain did have a number of GM dealers setting up wholesale accounts and buy product to get their customers back on the road because of the backlog on parts and the weeks and months delays getting customer cars fixed. This may have been approved by GM upper management as a stop gap measure as a way to lessen the sting for customers that have been waiting months with their vehicles down.

Even GM's most current solution is no cheaper than the Project Carbon NextGen valve body upgrade.

 

viven44

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It would be easy for GM to acquire Next-Gen. Also keep Next-Gen from helping out their competition. Just saying :cool:
 

gr8tdane24

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I successfully installed the NextGen kit on the 10L80 in my 2024 Sierra 1500 over the weekend. Thanks to OP for his tips and tricks - everything went smoothly, and I am very pleased so far with how the upgraded trans shifts. Lower gear shifts (especially 1st through 3rd) feel very precise and crispy. I have the LZ0 diesel and did run into one hiccup. On the diesels, the transmission does not have an internal cooler thermostat valve; instead GM uses a longer polished aluminum end plug in the thermostat bore of the valve body. I had to shorten this end plug spool piece 0.265" in my metal lathe so it could be reinserted backwards into the thermostat valve bore as indicated in the NextGen instructions. I'm sure careful grinding and filing could accomplish the same thing, but it was just easier to chuck it up in my lathe. After starting my truck back up, there were three DTC's (P17F6, P17FB, and P27ED) that cleared after test driving and several ignition cycles. Overall, everything is working great and I am happy with the outcome so far, but this not something your average DIY'er would want to do unless you have the tools, patience, and level of comfort required to modify a complex piece of mechanics. Also the NextGen instructions are not the best - I had to use the ATSG 10L80 manual, as well as ALLDATA, to get critical information such as the torque sequence for all the valve body bolts.

I have a more detailed post of my experience on r/gmcsierra for those that care to know more.
 
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While I have not had my hands on a Diesel valve body, I think the internal valve body thermostat plug probably did not need anything changes because the Diesel do have the external cooling loop thermostat. If you search around on YouTube I think there are some videos on how to bypass the external cooling loop thermostat by flipping something internally.

I think the problem is overall the 10L80/10L90/10L1000 all have the same basic valve body but between the Diesel, the 3/4 ton and up truck (2500-3500+) and some of the earlier Gen1 valve bodies, there are some variations. Differences include whether the valve body is electrically shifted, meaning there is not a column shifter with a physical cable connected between the column shifter and the transmission, whether the valve body is mechanically shifted with a physical cable between the column shifter and the transmission (Typically 3/4 ton 2500-3500+) trucks, unclear if the earlier 2019-2021 Gen 1 transmission were electrically or cable controlled, whether there is an internal valve body cooling loop thermostat (Gasoline engines only from my understanding).

I think there may be some varitions on the transmission filter shape/part number as well.
 
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This video is more about the manually shifted 10L1000, however, this will offer some more insight to check ball location and seperator plate alignment. So anyone thinking of DIY'ing the NextGen kit viewing this should be helpful.

Trying to get as many resources in one place.

 
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Info on external cooling loop thermostat, typically for the Diesel models.



 
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Updated GM valve body, note that the country of Origin on the part number label at 28 seconds into the video indicate USA and Germany.

The fact they are having to go to an updated valve body either means the original vendor has been changed and/or the original valve bodies were just substandard.

Not sure the bolt information is really anything new, there are 1 time use bolts that should be replaced when replacing the filter and/or valve body. See 2nd video below.


 

Skiwagon25

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Added the heat shield on the the exhaust pipe that runs under the trans pan, seems to fit fine, but very close proximity overall. Hopefully it will help with radiant heat transferring to the trans pan from the Post Cat drivers side cross over pipe. I do not think this exhaust cross over pipe is an issue on the 2500 series and up and the 3.0l Diesels have a single exhaust so this is not a problem. Just the 1500 series for sure with 4WD, maybe all of the 1500 series V8 models.

4" x 1' flexible heat shield on Amazon deal for like $35.


View attachment 463828
Has the dealer made any mention about the PPE pan? I am planning on installing one in a couple of weeks but having 2nd thoughts due to warranty on my ‘25 3.0. My local dealer was not keen on the Nexgen valve body when I asked if they would install one for me…
BTW, is there any logic to the 3.0 transmission running at the upper 190’s/ 200’s?
 
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Dealer? The dealer will only see my vehicle for warranty work. My 2005 Yukon only went to the dealer once for a GPS radio problem, still own and drive it. What can they say about a pan that holds liquid? Only possible issue is the pan holds 2 1/2 qts more fluid that GM pays for so I may need to buy 3 qts of fluid if they need to perform a major trans repair.

They cannot really say anything about an aftermarket pan as long as the pan gasket is not leaking and you expect warranty to cover your work.

Dealer will not be keen on installing any non GM part especially when they know nothing about it. NextGen indicates some dealers have set up wholesale accounts and are buying their product to get customers back on the road so they are not down for weeks or months. I would not have dealer install a valve body update because most dealer techs only replace assemblies, the do not dive deep into valve body overhauls. Could the techs do the work, sure but GM may only have labor hours for valve body R&R.

3.0 Diesel trans temps high because of the different cooling loop thermostat but no idea why they did what they did with the trans temps on the Diesel, probably fel economy related?? All bad ideas seem to be fuel economy related!
 

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Not sure the bolt information is really anything new, there are 1 time use bolts that should be replaced when replacing the filter and/or valve body. See 2nd video below.
Why did they need to use TTY bolts ? Seems like overkill. Honestly even cylinder heads shouldn’t need them, but fine, with aluminum heads and higher compression ratios maybe there are reasons. We did just fine with standard bolts for over 50 years on valve bodies.
 
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Possibly because it allows allows more smaller bolts, but they over engineer things like the bolts and do foolish things with the valve body. No idea why they they use the aluminum bolts for the filter. Seems like broken filter bolts going to occur often, but maybe this keeps the trans case from being stripped out.
 

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