Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[Tonyrodz]

I finally figured out why it kept throwing the belt--idler pulley.

Advance had given me the wrong one and I tried to make it work--FAIL! I got an oem one from numb nuts and it's GTG!! Runs like a champ.

I think I fixed the blinker issue. I just messed with the bulbs. They work again.
The beauty cover is flopping around. The part that it hooks into is missing--I think.

Anyone have a pic of it?
I miss my 10.5 Taylors .

Of course if you yank them by the wire they'll break!

This bare ended wire is just an extra ground I added. I don't have a big enough eyelet to add.

 

[iamdub]

So pull it down for more wiggle room? It's pushed up too far?

This is what it looks like to me. Pulling it down would clear the prop shaft and align the flange where it connects to the rest of the system. My Y-pipe is about 1/2" above the bottom of the cross member that it goes in front of. With all them slip-fit connections, you have a lot of adjustment. You still may need to crush the Y-pipe a little, but it'd be a lot less. You may actually get plenty of clearance at the prop shaft and need to squash it a little where it passes on top of the cross member to let it come down enough. Whichever requires less squashing and/or gives more clearance.

 

[Bear77]

I finally figured out why it kept throwing the belt--idler pulley.

I was sure it the power steering pump pulley! Glad you figured it out.

The beauty cover is flopping around. The part that it hooks into is missing--I think.
Anyone have a pic of it?

Might have a one hiding if you need it

This bare ended wire is just an extra ground I added. I don't have a big enough eyelet to add.

What size is that wire?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[iamdub]

These pic angles don't show the height of my crossover pipe in relation to the cross member. They actually make it look really high. But you can get a visual of the two points in question. Loosen all three slip-fit connections, and let the Y droop down as much as the slack in the slip-fits will allow but remain above the bottom of the cross member. They'll try to realign as you tighten the clamps, so wedge a 2x4 or something on top of the Y, against the floor of the body to hold it down and into position while you tighten everything where you want it. You can mark everything very carefully with a permanent marker, remove the Y and have someone weld it together so the clamps and slip-fits will never be a problem.

 

[randeez]

These pic angles don't show the height of my crossover pipe in relation to the cross member. They actually make it look really high. But you can get a visual of the two points in question. Loosen all three slip-fit connections, and let the Y droop down as much as the slack in the slip-fits will allow but remain above the bottom of the cross member. They'll try to realign as you tighten the clamps, so wedge a 2x4 or something on top of the Y, against the floor of the body to hold it down and into position while you tighten everything where you want it. You can mark everything very carefully with a permanent marker, remove the Y and have someone weld it together so the clamps and slip-fits will never be a problem.

View attachment 262977

View attachment 262978

no where near the front DS

when i had the speed engineering headers/ypipe on mine i think the crossover pipe was right at the bottom of the transmission crossmember, maybe even a hair below it. never really tried to push it up to the prop shaft

 

[Dantheman1540]

Plug wires are plug wires as long as they still work. I think I have 3 different brands on the Tahoe right now.

Turck sounds like it's running great! I like the cluster. trans looks like it's shifting good too. You got a hot rod again!

 

[pwtr02ss]

These pic angles don't show the height of my crossover pipe in relation to the cross member. They actually make it look really high. But you can get a visual of the two points in question. Loosen all three slip-fit connections, and let the Y droop down as much as the slack in the slip-fits will allow but remain above the bottom of the cross member. They'll try to realign as you tighten the clamps, so wedge a 2x4 or something on top of the Y, against the floor of the body to hold it down and into position while you tighten everything where you want it. You can mark everything very carefully with a permanent marker, remove the Y and have someone weld it together so the clamps and slip-fits will never be a problem.

View attachment 262977

View attachment 262978

So CLEEEEEAN

 

[pwtr02ss]

I finally figured out why it kept throwing the belt--idler pulley.View attachment 262969
Advance had given me the wrong one and I tried to make it work--FAIL! I got an oem one from numb nuts and it's GTG!! Runs like a champ.

I think I fixed the blinker issue. I just messed with the bulbs. They work again.
The beauty cover is flopping around. The part that it hooks into is missing--I think.View attachment 262965
Anyone have a pic of it?
I miss my 10.5 Taylors .View attachment 262974
Of course if you yank them by the wire they'll break!View attachment 262973
This bare ended wire is just an extra ground I added. I don't have a big enough eyelet to add.View attachment 262972

I've had the best luck out the OEM wires. The ones that are actual OE, not just ACDelco brand or whatever.

 

[Bear77]

These pic angles don't show the height of my crossover pipe in relation to the cross member. They actually make it look really high. But you can get a visual of the two points in question. Loosen all three slip-fit connections, and let the Y droop down as much as the slack in the slip-fits will allow but remain above the bottom of the cross member. They'll try to realign as you tighten the clamps, so wedge a 2x4 or something on top of the Y, against the floor of the body to hold it down and into position while you tighten everything where you want it. You can mark everything very carefully with a permanent marker, remove the Y and have someone weld it together so the clamps and slip-fits will never be a problem.

View attachment 262977

View attachment 262978

Very clean looking exhaust!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Scottydoggs]

she sounds damn good. good to see you back on the road.

 

[Rocket Man]

Awesome to see and hear you drive it again Tony. Looks like you just about have it figured out. Who was it that installed your headers anyway, the same “friend “ who has had it forever?

 

[Tonyrodz]

These pic angles don't show the height of my crossover pipe in relation to the cross member. They actually make it look really high. But you can get a visual of the two points in question. Loosen all three slip-fit connections, and let the Y droop down as much as the slack in the slip-fits will allow but remain above the bottom of the cross member. They'll try to realign as you tighten the clamps, so wedge a 2x4 or something on top of the Y, against the floor of the body to hold it down and into position while you tighten everything where you want it. You can mark everything very carefully with a permanent marker, remove the Y and have someone weld it together so the clamps and slip-fits will never be a problem.

View attachment 262977

View attachment 262978

I can't wait to try it. I'd love to get my 4wd back.

Plug wires are plug wires as long as they still work. I think I have 3 different brands on the Tahoe right now.

Turck sounds like it's running great! I like the cluster. trans looks like it's shifting good too. You got a hot rod again!

Kept burning the wires and/or boots because of the headers. I burned through 2 sets before going with the Taylors. They never burned on the headers.

I've had the best luck out the OEM wires. The ones that are actual OE, not just ACDelco brand or whatever.

Taylors were made for headers. I'll eventually get another set. 10.5 mm too.

she sounds damn good. good to see you back on the road.

Yes she does. Good to be back on the road. Thx Scotty.

Awesome to see and hear you drive it again Tony. Looks like you just about have it figured out. Who was it that installed your headers anyway, the same “friend “ who has had it forever?

I was working on it today a little bit. Just trying to tidy up inside, fix my turn signals, musc stuff. Took me over an hr to wire in an aftermarket pwr port to replace one that didn't work.
Yup--dumbass/numb nuts installed the headers originally. I wish I had a nice garage to work in lol. I'd be spoiled!

 

[Tonyrodz]

I was sure it the power steering pump pulley! Glad you figured it out.

Might have a one hiding if you need it



What size is that wire?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That would be awesome Humberto. Thx dude.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Forgot--still need to bleed the brakes, get wheel alignment and swap tires.
It just occured to me--Since I'm lowered I hope the knobby style tires don't rub when the wheels are cut hard left and right.

 

[iamdub]

no where near the front DS

I'm not trackin. Am I missing something?

 

[PG01]

Happy for you Tony

 

[randeez]

I'm not trackin. Am I missing something?

your exhaust is nowhere near the front shaft...

 

[Fless]

your exhaust is nowhere near the front shaft...

It WOULD be if it had one...

 

[Tonyrodz]

Happy for you Tony

Thx Pete, I'm ecstatic!!

 

[Sparksalot]

Forgot--still need to bleed the brakes, get wheel alignment and swap tires.
It just occured to me--Since I'm lowered I hope the knobby style tires don't rub when the wheels are cut hard left and right.View attachment 262984 View attachment 262985

That’s the same size as the KO2s I have on thecopcar.