There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

I just helped a local shop, that I send work to if I don't want it, sell a $7k ticket on a 1986 Nissan 720 series pickup, manual transmission, 2.4 engine. It is a neighbor's truck that he has had since new and he loves the truck and does not want another truck. I got the shop to only do a 20% mark up on parts and give a military discount on the whole ticket and an additional 3% off if pay cash. I still got it!

 

[OR VietVet]

Landlord's son has a 2022 Prius Hybrid. I did an oil change and CAF and engine air filter and cleaned the MAF. Checked both coolant reservoirs. One for engine and one for Hybrid battery. Then I found out about and replaced the filter for the Hybrid battery assembly, under the rear seat area. Filter is behind a panel at the p/s front corner of the rear seat. There is a fan there that draws air in to help cool the battery assembly. Very easy to change. You can see them at you tube. Sorry, no pics.

 

[OR VietVet]

Recently I was working on a 2010 F150 5.4 with a fluttering oil pressure needle on my mechanical gauge from my tool box. I wanted to see what it would say/do while driving. I went to my local O'Reilly's and they did not have extended lines to attach and read the oil pressure, in the cab while driving. They suggested to see a local, right down the street, supplier of all different kinds of sizes and lengths of lines and pressures that the lines would handle. Plus they had whatever fittings I needed and they built me 2 custom length, 8', lines with the correct fittings, for the oil pressure and fuel pressure. My cost, out the door was close to $60 total. The extended line gave me plenty of length for the oil pressure diagnostics and I know the fuel line will work too.

Since I do work out of my driveway, these 2 lines will save me so much time and guesswork. I can also get the scanner out and do it, but I wanted to SEE the fluttering needle.

 

[OR VietVet]

So, tackled a 2020 Colorado with 26,500 miles and the 3.6 V6 engine. Recently had a 2018 Suburban, landlords, doing the same thing as this Colorado. Temp gauge stuck at 160 degrees, CEL codes P0118 and P0128, having to do with the thermostat and the Coolant Temp Sensor. The cooling fans were staying on for 10 minutes after shut engine off, too.
They did not want to pay for the upper intake labor, for CTS access, so I was just gonna do the thermostat and cross fingers. When you look at you tube, most say the upper intake does have to come off for the CTS. One guy even made a special tool and wants $90/shipped for it. I looked at the videos and came up with an idea. I used a 15mm 12 point ICON long beam tool that has more than a 90 degree flex at the end and is a combo 15mm and 13mm and about 20" long.
Just to let you know, the CTS is tilted slightly toward the valve cover/away from center. I removed the thermostat housing/thermostat combo, that is a feat all of it's own because the 2 10mm bolt heads are hidden a bit but a 1/4" wobble extension worked for me. Do not leave the attaching bolts in there. I removed with mechanical fingers. Snaked the housing out thru the front hole and that is a bit tricky too.
Broke the CTS loose and then the fun starts. There is no "throw room" so I kept ratcheting it but had to reach in with my middle finger, no room for any more than one finger when tool is on the CTS. I had to ratchet loose and ratchet tighten and then hold pressure with the one finger to grab a couple teeth for removal and install. Basically have to have eyes in your fingers. Got it all back together, filled with coolant.
Did an oil and filter change. Cabin Air Filter and engine air filter and cleaned the MAF sensor. Reset oil change reminder and put a w/s sticker on it. Inspected the throttle body and was ok for now. Cleared codes and took on a long road test and topped off the coolant when returned.
By the way, first I drained coolant at radiator so when I released the upper hose housing, I would not have coolant all over the belt. I refilled system with fresh 50/50 Dexcool mix. After all that prep for coolant flow, I still had some come out of a small coolant pipe when I pulled the small hose, in the pics, for access.

The thermostat and CTS took close to 2 hours time. Complete time going in and back out and running.

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, so today, I worked on my landlord's son's 2004 K2500HD 6.0 crew cab, with 126k miles on it. It is in fantastic shape and I know that for sure because I used to own it about 9 months ago.

In today for an oil change. Air filter was in great shape and found that the throttle body was filthy because in the short time I owned it, 3 to 4 months, me and my girl only put 200 miles on it. I cleaned the MAF and removed the throttle body and thoroughly cleaned both sides of the plate and the plate itself. It was filthy. PITA dealing with the 2 coolant lines that attach at the bottom with some PITA clamps. Especially PITA was the one behind the alternator. Used these pliers to handle it. I used a set that had a 45 degree bend at the jaws. Be aware, you cannot pull the throttle body off the 3 mounting studs until you remove at least the hose off the d/s of throttle body, behind the alternator. Also, I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned at the throttle bore and plate but the plate stains will sometimes remain from neglect time. The pics you see of the clamps, are after reinstall.

But what was the biggest surprise is that even though the parts listing listed an inline fuel filter, there was none. Absolutely no inline fuel filter. Manufactured 05/04. The fuel filter was on the fuel pump. I have a 2005 Tahoe Z71 and know I don't have an inline fuel filter but was surprised that this 2004 K2500HD did not.

 

[LsHart]

I love these stories on repairs! Good deal. It's really nice when it all comes together.

 

[homesick]

Ok, so today, I worked on my landlord's son's 2004 K2500HD 6.0 crew cab, with 126k miles on it. It is in fantastic shape and I know that for sure because I used to own it about 9 months ago.

In today for an oil change. Air filter was in great shape and found that the throttle body was filthy because in the short time I owned it. 3 to 4 months, me and my girl only put 200 miles on it. I cleaned the MAF and removed the throttle body and thoroughly cleaned both sides of the plate and the plate itself. It was filthy. PITA dealing with the 2 coolant lines that attach at the bottom with some PITA clamps. Especially PITA was the one behind the alternator. Used these pliers to handle it. I used a set that had a 45 degree bend at the jaws.

View attachment 482232


But what was the biggest surprise is that even though the parts listing listed an inline fuel filter, there was none. Absolutely no inline fuel filter. Manufactured 05/04. The fuel filter was on the fuel pump. I have a 2005 Tahoe Z71 and know I don't have an inline fuel filter but was surprised that this 2004 K2500HD did not.

I thought that filters in-tank AND in-line was the standard.

joe

 

[OR VietVet]

I thought that filters in-tank AND in-line was the standard.

joe

The concern was that the GMT800's had inline fuel filters thru 2004 and a sock on the pickup in tanks. The 2005's had no inline filter and just on the pump. This 2004 SHOULD have had the inline filter but did not.

 

[OR VietVet]

Tomorrow is an inspection on a 2008 K3500 HD GMC Sierra 6.6 Duramax diesel. Has oil in the intercooler and tubes. Likely turbo seals problems. Leaks at back of hydro boost and back of master cylinder. Also, has 6 engine codes for 5 cylinders glow plugs ground problems and 1 code for glow plug control module and a TPMS light at dash. I will dig deeper on inspection tomorrow.

Friday is an alternator install on my neighbor's 2006 F150 5.4. Cold start squeal when below 40 degrees. Related to "drive end bearing" at back center of housing.

 

[OR VietVet]

I love these stories on repairs! Good deal. It's really nice when it all comes together.

I work on more than GM's, in this thread.

 

[OR VietVet]

2008 GMC Sierra K2500HD Duramax inspection done. Has 5 of 8 glow plugs "open" and bad. Told him that need to replace all and see if P064C module related code goes away. Found out something interesting about the Duramax. The 1-3-5-7 cylinders are on the Passenger and the 2-4-6-8 on driver's side.

Tubo going bad and throwing oil in to the intercooler system. Pulled master cylinder and verified wet at back and is wet at inside firewall where the plunger is for the hydro boost is.

Just told him to get all new GM TPMS sensors and get them installed.

 

[OR VietVet]

Worked on the neighbor's 2006 F150 5.4 4x4, with a noisy alternator bearing. This is the F150, me and my shop owner friend put a Ford Reman engine and a local rebuild of the transmission. Lots of additional parts done at same time but no alternator, 2 years ago, next month. He wanted a Motorcraft reman alternator. Ordered in and picked up on the 8th. Installed today. Is an easy R&R. Literally out and in within 30 minutes. Charged fine till roadtest and battery light came on. Tested with same meter and not charging. AT ALL. Found a Denso replacement at same warehouse. Bad alternator off and new install in 30 minutes. Took longer to round trip and go get the 2nd reman alternator. Alternator in pics is the original one. The two ears on the bottom sit on the two lower bolts, a 4 bolt bracket across the top and plug in and go, after serp belt reinstall. You can see the 2 cradle bolts in the pics. The first pic shows the 2 ears for two of the top bolts and the bracket extends out on each side and 2 other bolts attach at the intake.

 

[OR VietVet]

It is still bugging me. No exterior/along the frame, fuel filter on that 2004 K2500HD, crew cab 6.0? Does anyone know if I just missed it? Know of an RPO code that proves it?

 

[OR VietVet]

I am going to be replacing the thermostat and ECT sensor on my landlord's sister's 2018 Camry XLE 2.5 hybrid, on Monday or Tuesday. Problem is related to a CEL code of P0128.

The "Maintenance Mode" that I need to put the vehicle in, for the proper refill, is talked about at 9:30 of this video. The video is made by "Car Care Nut" who is a Toyota specialist and my go to guy for anything Toyota that I am unaware of. He really does know his stuff. But I have never heard of or had to deal with this Maintenance Mode. Any of you aware of this? I am not dealing with the separate coolant/cooling system for the hybrid battery. The whole video is very informative but the Maintenance Mode is new to me.

Any thoughts and comments are appreciated.

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

Found this at LEMON:

Replacement [06/2017 - 08/2018]: Procedure — 2018 Toyota Camry XLE, 2.5L Eng VIN 1 Service Manual ~ LEMON Manuals

Repair manual for the 2018 Toyota Camry XLE, 2.5L Eng VIN 1, including electrical diagrams, bolt torques, and labor times.

lemon-manuals.org.ua

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, so today I worked on a 2018 Toyota Camry XLE 2.5 Hybrid and dealt with a code P0128, to do with cooling system running to cold. Research points at the thermostat. Fans not involved because of the cooling running temps. I gotta tell ya, that thermostat/housing assembly, is a big PITA to get to.
Removed upper radiator cover, air snorkel, disconnected 8 different sensor connectors, including one on the thermostat housing. Then fold out of the way for access from above but that just means reach down and then curl the hands and fingers up to remove 2 8mm bolts and then the housing comes off. Reverse the procedure and then the fun begins.
Have to highest line on the cooling system and that is the EGR connector hose. Lay a cloth under it to catch coolant as it comes out during filling of coolant, after replacing the radiator drain plug. The refill is very slow going and filling the reservoir, too. You also have to burp the upper and lower radiator hoses. Fill very slow. The process takes about 30-40 minutes and then the coolant runs out at the disconnected EGR tube. Reconnect EGR line at the tube.
Then you start the engine and have to go thru 3-4 cycles to heat up engine and get it to open the thermostat and then top it all off again. Cleared code. Roadtested and monitored Live Data to watch the ECT sensor temps. All good and fans cycle as should. Codes all gone. See pics.

 

[LsHart]

Make that money!

 

[OR VietVet]

Make that money!

She is aware of the valve cover gasket being next. She has an 8 year old car with 32k miles and thinks it should have no concerns. She is learning.