There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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@915_Tahoe got back to me with the correct mirror part number. It was what I thought it was but was blown away by the almost $600 Dorman price at RA and wanted to be sure.
Owner is still not gonna spring for the part.

Does anyone have a link or 5 for used GM truck parts like this mirror?

You could try car-part.com for junkyard availability.
 

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At my age, I am more of a parts replacer than opening components up and replacing a part inside. Plus, it is the customer's money.

Absolutely! It was a chill Sunday morning and I had it apart. I spotted a roll of cable on the shelf and just went with it. One of those "nothing to lose in trying" moments that worked out as intended.
 
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Absolutely! It was a chill Sunday morning and I had it apart. I spotted a roll of cable on the shelf and just went with it. One of those "nothing to lose in trying" moments that worked out as intended.
How are they attached at each end? Isn't like you can tie them in a "bowline on a bight".
 
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You could try car-part.com for junkyard availability.
I searched the site. Found a used one about 8 miles from me. For less than half the price and IIRC, they give a military discount. Instead of new Dorman for $593, the used one is $225 minus the military discount, I hope. The owner may go for that. It is a large salvage yard company and there is 2 other stores close that list one for $200 and another for $250. May be the exterior condition of each for the price difference. I will have to call on Monday and see what the difference is. There is a column called "damage codes" but the listed code on two of them is (**) which means, not specified. The one that is close says "no damage".
 
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I just talked to the truck owner and he is ok with me calling the salvage yard and see if I can get a good used mirror for the d/s door. I am going to help him sell the truck. It will sell easier if during the prospective buyer walk around, they see 2 working outside mirrors. Plus, he will pay me to R&R the mirror.
 

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I'm quite familiar with that exact sound you described! The cable frayed and got wrapped up in itself inside, on that spool. My driver window did this five years ago. I took it apart to see what I needed to order to replace it. Ended up taking the assembly apart and replacing the cable. Then put the money I would've spent towards H3 mounts: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1283960
Same thing happened on my 03--cable frayed, but it only let the window come down 1/3 of the way. I just replaced the complete assembly.
 
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Interesting morning. Went to local salvage yard that showed the mirror I need for $225. They could not access the site I used to verify but said they had a truck with the mirror on it that they could pull and have off by tomorrow or I could pull it. I chose to pull to save a $25 fee for them pulling it. Went home and got tools. came back and walked out in the rain. Found the truck but had a front impact and drivers door was jammed closed and the inner door panel was still on it and, as it turns out, The glass for the mirror was gone. I walked back, in the rain, to the office. They were going to sell the mirror to me for $200, if I pulled, to match the lowest price listed on the car-parts.com website for the 3 mirrors available in the area at their 3 stores. They found a good mirror at the store 28 miles away and will pull it and have it here locally on Wednesday. They felt bad enough for sending me in the rain and finding no working mirror, they are selling the mirror to me for $180, pulled off and delivered locally. The mirror on website, that was listed at $250, was the same mirror 28 miles away. They are knocking off $70 and no pull fees and no delivery fees. All good.
 
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According to RA tracking info, I will have brake parts for 2005 Lexus RX330 here the 10th and the 17th. Rotors tomorrow and pads/hardware a week later. Thankfully the owner still has pad thickness to use till then.
 

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Interesting morning. Went to local salvage yard that showed the mirror I need for $225. They could not access the site I used to verify but said they had a truck with the mirror on it that they could pull and have off by tomorrow or I could pull it. I chose to pull to save a $25 fee for them pulling it. Went home and got tools. came back and walked out in the rain. Found the truck but had a front impact and drivers door was jammed closed and the inner door panel was still on it and, as it turns out, The glass for the mirror was gone. I walked back, in the rain, to the office. They were going to sell the mirror to me for $200, if I pulled, to match the lowest price listed on the car-parts.com website for the 3 mirrors available in the area at their 3 stores. They found a good mirror at the store 28 miles away and will pull it and have it here locally on Wednesday. They felt bad enough for sending me in the rain and finding no working mirror, they are selling the mirror to me for $180, pulled off and delivered locally. The mirror on website, that was listed at $250, was the same mirror 28 miles away. They are knocking off $70 and no pull fees and no delivery fees. All good.
Hopefully this'll be how it turns out--for you. Not trying to jinx you, but I'd be surprised if the transaction turns out in your favor.
 
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Hopefully this'll be how it turns out--for you. Not trying to jinx you, but I'd be surprised if the transaction turns out in your favor.
Yea, I pre paid with a c/c and that way can dispute the charge if it is needed.

I wish I needed this truck. It is in great shape. I had an 03 and these are better engines but not as good as the 2010 Duramax engines and newer.
 

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Made it out to Pick n Pull for rear disc backing plates to convert my 73 Camaro to rear disc. Happen to be 1/2 price day so only $11.50 each. This gives me 11.7" rear disc with a drum E-brake by using S10 4WD driver backing plate & passenger side 2WD V6 backing plate while using 2 4WD calipers.
Disc backing plates.jpg
 
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In my area, there is a B&R Salvage yard and a Pick-A-Part Salvage yard. I have walked thru both yards over the years and here in the PNW, they both look very dreary and unappealing in the rain and overcast skies. Way better experience on a sunny day. Yesterday was one of those dreary days. No fun, especially when I found the mirror I wanted and then found could not remove it and had no glass anyway.
 
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On the 2005 GMC Sierra SLE Duramax, just finished installing the two rear doors window regulators and motors. Not too bad. Did both in 1 hour and 50 minutes. Work flawlessly. Now just waiting for the call for the driver's side outside mirror to install it. The driver's side back up light was just a bulb. Had an extra 3157 clear for that.
 

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On the 2005 GMC Sierra SLE Duramax, just finished installing the two rear doors window regulators and motors. Not too bad. Did both in 1 hour and 50 minutes. Work flawlessly. Now just waiting for the call for the driver's side outside mirror to install it. The driver's side back up light was just a bulb. Had an extra 3157 clear for that.
None of the door clips busted on ya? That's a victory.
 
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None of the door clips busted on ya? That's a victory.
I expected door clips too, but the design is a single retaining screw at the lower front corner and a single screw above the inner door handle that releases the latch. Then pop the sliding door lock out, pop the window switch up and disconnect and remove a trim piece around the inner door handle that releases the door latch and then grab the inner panel grab handle and lift up about 1.5" to 2" and the panel pulls away from the door. Two rods in the way that work the inner door lock and the latch release handle and I popped them loose and tied with a zip tie up and out of the way. Removed the plastic cover and the door speaker. Removed 5 attaching nuts and bolts and snake the assembly out of the big hole. When you do this all, tape the glass all the way up. On the regulator there are two nuts that squeeze the regulator to the bottom of the glass. Loosen the nuts and spread the slot apart to accept the glass. Bolt regulator in place, plug switch and motor in and run the regulator up to the glass and tighten the squeeze clamps and reverse the rest to cover it all.
 

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I expected door clips too, but the design is a single retaining screw at the lower front corner and a single screw above the inner door handle that releases the latch. Then pop the sliding door lock out, pop the window switch up and disconnect and remove a trim piece around the inner door handle that releases the door latch and then grab the inner panel grab handle and lift up about 1.5" to 2" and the panel pulls away from the door. Two rods in the way that work the inner door lock and the latch release handle and I popped them loose and tied with a zip tie up and out of the way. Removed the plastic cover and the door speaker. Removed 5 attaching nuts and bolts and snake the assembly out of the big hole. When you do this all, tape the glass all the way up. On the regulator there are two nuts that squeeze the regulator to the bottom of the glass. Loosen the nuts and spread the slot apart to accept the glass. Bolt regulator in place, plug switch and motor in and run the regulator up to the glass and tighten the squeeze clamps and reverse the rest to cover it all.
That's the one positive about the regulators in these trucks. I like that glass clamp setup compared to the old school channels with the plastic rollers. Much easier to pop the glass off and on.
 

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