There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[TollKeeper]

If you have the VIN, you can go to the NHSTA site, and it will tell you if those recalls to that VIN have been performed.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have the VIN. Is the NHSTA site free?

 

[TollKeeper]

I have the VIN. Is the NHSTA site free?

it is

Recalls | NHTSA

Use our VIN lookup tool to check for recalls on your car, or search by make and model. Also, get recall information on car seats, tires and equipment.

www.nhtsa.gov

 

[OR VietVet]

If you have the VIN, you can go to the NHSTA site, and it will tell you if those recalls to that VIN have been performed.

I did go there and found exactly what I needed. Thanks a bunch.

 

[TollKeeper]

Well dont leave us hanging... What did you find?!

 

[OR VietVet]

Well dont leave us hanging... What did you find?!

I found that this Equinox was not involved in the vacuum pump recall and that the other 5 recalls that it was involved in, have all been done to it. It is free and clear of recalls that have not been addressed. Now I can concentrate on the valve cover gasket work after inspection on Monday to see if there is any other oil leak concerns. I do know that the valve cover gasket tear down and reassembly, will be a PITA.

 

[TollKeeper]

Is that the 4 cyl or 6 cyl?

 

[OR VietVet]

4 cylinder turbo. 1.5.

 

[TollKeeper]

Oh... One of those motors..

 

[OR VietVet]

Oh... One of those motors..

Yes, one of those. To get the valve cover off, it will require battery removal, vacuum pump removal, turbo tube removal, evap lines removal, ignition coils removal and injector fuel rail removal.

 

[TollKeeper]

There is a reason I wont buy anything newer than 2006/2010 (depending on model) from GM.. And thats one of them. Stupid engineering.

 

[OR VietVet]

At $80 an hour, I should do likely 3.5 to 4 hours. Cash.

 

[OR VietVet]

In another thread I explain about buying a 2006 GMC Yukon Denali with 136k miles and the 6.0 engine. I was talking with the guy that I bought it from and he has a very clean red 1999 GMC Yukon 4 door with a coolant leak. I told him my rates. Bought the Denali on the 25th and he had me inspect the red 1999 today. Leaking water pump. Charged him my $40 inspection fee and he gave me money for parts and did the new A/C Delco new water pump, new thermostat and new radiator cap. That fixed his coolant leak and put $290 labor back in my pocket from the $10k I gave him for the Denali. The pressure test I did easily showed the coolant leak at the water pump and loose hose clamps at the heater control valve.

Now, on to my next question. His temp gauge will not read higher than 160 degrees and the heat blowing out is warm and not hot. I think on a vehicle that old and unknown maintenance, he has a clogged heater core but that is not gonna effect the dash gauge. He is gonna have me throw more money at the coolant temp sensor and the coolant sender as well. I am likely gonna pull the heater hoses at the firewall and check the flow at the heater core.

I told him to try the small hose clamp at the hose from the radiator to the coolant overflow bottle but unsure if this is the age where that would help.

If anyone has ideas, please share them. If anyone know that the heater core job is a nightmare or easy, please tell me. At 70 years old and 275 pounds, I don't want to spend a bunch of time laying under the dash in weird body twists.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Fless]

I remember a video that Eric O made about using CLR to clean the core. Might be something to try to cheat some labor.

 

[OR VietVet]

I remember a video that Eric O made about using CLR to clean the core. Might be something to try to cheat some labor.

Interesting little video. I am having to deal with his external heater control valve as well.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, the 99 Yukon owner was just here. I did a laser temp reading at the two heater hoses. The larger feed hose that is closest to the engine, read 180-185 degrees and the smaller return hose, read 160-165 degrees. The temp difference is because of the loss of some of the heat from the blower blowing across the heater core. I told him that I could flush the heater core but I was certain that it would not accomplish anything. The vents temp readings were 100 degrees at the center and 90-95 degrees at the two end vents. I told him he likely has a blend door/actuator problem. The heater control valve is working properly. The control head, in the dash, has been replaced two times, for 2 different owners, because a tech said they were needed. Two different techs. While he was here, I did double check my coolant leak work. The water pump was dry and me tightening the heater control valve hose clamps stopped the leaks at that component. He thanked me for not wasting his money for a heater core flush. I told him I will not tear in to his dash.

Reason for the last statement: He knows my labor rate of $80 an hour is half of what shops charge in the area and he still tries to get a better rate and ask me to commit to a flat fee for the work. Not gonna do that, period! Nice enough guy but him and his dad own an RV sales business and he has too much "used car salesman" in his demeanor.

Please see a post in the OBS section for help me with a question he has.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, yesterday, I got my neighbor's son's 2005 Lexus RX330 back here for the engine noise diagnostics and see if can turn out the air bag light.

The engine noise is definitely at the top middle front of the engine, behind the timing belt cover. I looked at a you tube video and right at that spot is a belt idler pulley. The noise can be heard at idle but as soon as you accel just a little, the noise goes away. He is choosing to delay that repair till later. The timing belt was done by the dealer about 30k miles ago but the idler, water pump and tensioner were not done at that time.

Now, on to the air bag light. I checked any related fuses, inspected all wiring under both front seats and the related connectors for any problems and found none. There is a module under the passenger seat but I could not see it or touch it. He has all electric seats and they hug the floor and to get to that would require unbolting the seat. Not doing that, YET. Inspected all the seat belt latches and made sure they work freely. I then attached the scanner and got one code-B1150: Occupant Classification System Fault. Did some research and found that code is normal if after an air bag deployment, seat sway....etc. There are weight sensing plates in the seat. The easiest attempt to get the light out is a re-calibration but my scanner will not do that. My friend/shop owner, has a Snap On scanner that can. I am going to get a Tuesday when I can have the vehicle and go attempt a recal. If that does not work, then the seat will need to come up and access the module. The kicker is that the floors are loaded with clutter and filth and I will have to tell him to clean it all up before I would remove the seat. I warned him what next step after recal attempt would be but have not mentioned the floor filth problem. He has been driving around with the air bag light and the maintenance required light on for close to a year. I reset the maint required light already. We shall see what happens. More info to follow as this progresses.

 

[tom3]

Heat in the 99 Yukon. That machine have a cabin filter?

 

[OR VietVet]

Heat in the 99 Yukon. That machine have a cabin filter?

Thanks, I had not thought of that. Yes, RA lists a cabin air filter for that truck. I know that the air flow could be effected but had not thought of a cabin filter effecting the heat output.

 

[OR VietVet]

I just talked to the Yukon owner and I am gonna take the cabin air filter out tomorrow.