Started cleaning sludged engine

[Jon Chimpo]

Im going with no. You ever seen an engine tore down that was neglected, especially with oil changes never or rarely done? The bearings end up with all kinds of crap imbedded into the shells. Mains, Cam and Rod bearings all are trashed. Ive seen rod bearings where the top layer was missing in patches because of crap in the oil.

this could turn out to be a half a million mile engine. should we start a betting pool on how long it will last? winner buys me a motor.

 

[Tacky]

When you get this running, keep a close eye on your coolant. A lot of the time when you have heavy sludge it s because coolant s getting into the oil.

 

[2011SSVHOE]

yep but it will look like a milkshake. just my 2 cents

 

[Jon Chimpo]

My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard.

 

[iamdub]

My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard.

Apparently it only brought one boy, Bernie, and he didn't do much.

 

[BeenChevy]

If you haven't gotten back to the fuel filter. I've had good luck saturating my nuts with water and letting them sit for 10 minutes to reactivate the rust.. then hit each nut with a punch tool and they'll break free. Repeat the process until you throw up.. but seriously water works better then the penetrating oils in these circumstances. If you've already dressed with a PO hit it with de-greaser first remove the oil and then apply the water.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Apparently it only brought one boy, Bernie, and he didn't do much.

 

[Jon Chimpo]

Apparently it only brought one boy, Bernie, and he didn't do much.

hahahahaha

 

[mattbta]

I've had good luck saturating my nuts with water and letting them sit for 10 minutes.

Oh yeah?


Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

[Jon Chimpo]

If you haven't gotten back to the fuel filter. I've had good luck saturating my nuts with water and letting them sit for 10 minutes to reactivate the rust.. then hit each nut with a punch tool and they'll break free. Repeat the process until you throw up.. but seriously water works better then the penetrating oils in these circumstances. If you've already dressed with a PO hit it with de-greaser first remove the oil and then apply the water.[/QUOTE

Really? I put this on the back burner for now. I'll give it a shot, as with everything else with this Tahoe, i have nothing to loose but my time.

 

[BeenChevy]

Yeah the PB-blaster & Kroil no longer get ANY attention after discovering this technique. The only penetrating oil I use now is seafoam - used primarily as a cleaner. I got sick and tired of snapping bolt heads with a torque wrench only to spend hours drilling them out and re-tapping things. Obviously heat can work wonders as well but for H20 is a damn miracle on rusted/seized bolts - It'll even help break bolts that have been torqued tight with yellow or blue locktite, so long as theres rust present.

 

[rockola1971]

this could turn out to be a half a million mile engine. should we start a betting pool on how long it will last? winner buys me a motor.

Or it will more likely spin a rod bearing and throw a rod though your sludge pan in about 100k miles or less.

 

[iamdub]

Or it will more likely spin a rod bearing and throw a rod though your sludge pan in about 100k miles or less.

As optimistic as we can all be, this will always be a realistic possibility. It was running fine sludged up, and cleaning doesn't cost much in materials. If it lasts a year or two, I'd say he got his time and money's worth out of it and hopefully will have a little put aside for a new/rebuilt motor. Or he'll just ditch the whole thing and look under the oil cap on the next used SUV.

 

[Aliquantus]

Or it will more likely spin a rod bearing and throw a rod though your sludge pan in about 100k miles or less.

And then you go put in a $250 junkyard 5.3 that will go another half million. These motors are cheap, plentiful and generally bullet proof.

 

[Aliquantus]

The sludge issues I've seen were on early 2000's BMW's where the dealers were changing the oil through the dipstick tube and not pulling the drain plugs. Sludge would just gather up in the bottom of the pan until it hit the crankshaft and was flung all over the place. This is exactly why I change the oil every 3000 miles religiously in all my cars and don't bother with synthetics that go 7-12k miles between changes.

 

[2011SSVHOE]

The sludge issues I've seen were on early 2000's BMW's where the dealers were changing the oil through the dipstick tube and not pulling the drain plugs. Sludge would just gather up in the bottom of the pan until it hit the crankshaft and was flung all over the place. This is exactly why I change the oil every 3000 miles religiously in all my cars and don't bother with synthetics that go 7-12k miles between changes.[/QUOTE

Jeeeez Lueeez BMW really? glad I don't drive that foreign crap. My son had a girlfriend that changed her oil every 3k with synthetic what a waste. of course she was a little weird anyhow.

 

[Jon Chimpo]

Eh I'm already figuring a rebuild is in my near future. if it works, it works. if not whatever. I learned a valuable lesson on this car. I've bought an sold probably 30 cars in my life. I've always made money on the cars I buy. this one, nope. that's the way the mop flops. my next car I will insist that my local mechanic double checks my work. I will also never buy another car from another dealer. this was thestablished first and last dealer bought car for me.

 

[Jon Chimpo]

I also own a e46 ZHP BMW. Its been a great little car. no issues whatsoever, just normal maintenance stuff.

 

[Jon Chimpo]

Or it will more likely spin a rod bearing and throw a rod though your sludge pan in about 100k miles or less.

sounds like we have our first wager.

 

[rockola1971]

And then you go put in a $250 junkyard 5.3 that will go another half million. These motors are cheap, plentiful and generally bullet proof.

Youre not likely to get a 5.3L out of a junkyard to go a half million miles. Not very realistic there.