Short block purchase

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flynn78us

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Found a short block for sell. Is it worth 1900 or should I just rebuild mine? Timing is key here because I can’t be down my family hauler. What do you guys think?


5.3 LC9 long block for sale:
Complete GEN 4 5.3, 58x reluctor wheel,

706 heads

BTR .560 lift beehive springs

BTR truck Norris cam 212/22x, .553 lift

Rings gapped for boost .028” gap

New rod bearings

Sleeves honed

All new gaskets and seals

Rebuilt oil pump

Billet oil barbell

Oil relief valve has been plugged on the pan

VVT and DOD delete, 3 bolt cam conversion

Upgraded trunnion rockers

BTR 7.400” .080 wall chromoly pushrods

Yes the oil pan is included, engine is sealed up

Obviously I’d get a black bear tune
 

Geotrash

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Found a short block for sell. Is it worth 1900 or should I just rebuild mine? Timing is key here because I can’t be down my family hauler. What do you guys think?


5.3 LC9 long block for sale:
Complete GEN 4 5.3, 58x reluctor wheel,

706 heads

BTR .560 lift beehive springs

BTR truck Norris cam 212/22x, .553 lift

Rings gapped for boost .028” gap

New rod bearings

Sleeves honed

All new gaskets and seals

Rebuilt oil pump

Billet oil barbell

Oil relief valve has been plugged on the pan

VVT and DOD delete, 3 bolt cam conversion

Upgraded trunnion rockers

BTR 7.400” .080 wall chromoly pushrods

Yes the oil pan is included, engine is sealed up

Obviously I’d get a black bear tune
Looks like a fair deal if it's in running shape. With the heads included, it's a long block. My only hesitation would be the idle lope that comes with the truck Norris cam. That would drive me batshit crazy in a daily driver. My other question is why the 706 heads instead of the 799's that came with it. Seems like a step backwards to me.
 

iamdub

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Looks like a fair deal if it's in running shape. With the heads included, it's a long block. My only hesitation would be the idle lope that comes with the truck Norris cam. That would drive me batshit crazy in a daily driver. My other question is why the 706 heads instead of the 799's that came with it. Seems like a step backwards to me.

I was wondering this as well. If the 706s were modded (2" intake valves and mild porting), they could be better than the 243/799 with their equal or better flow volume but more turbulent swirl and higher compression. That higher compression would compliment the cam.
 

Geotrash

Dave
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I was wondering this as well. If the 706s were modded (2" intake valves and mild porting), they could be better than the 243/799 with their equal or better flow volume but more turbulent swirl and higher compression. That higher compression would compliment the cam.
Yup. I think that's the key question I would ask the seller. Of course, heads are essentially bolt-on accessories so its a problem he could solve later since he has some time pressures.
 

iamdub

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Yup. I think that's the key question I would ask the seller. Of course, heads are essentially bolt-on accessories so its a problem he could solve later since he has some time pressures.

You would think with all the other mods, it'd have different heads or modded heads. Although, it has rings gapped for boost. Maybe low boost and bumped compression for peppiness when off boost, being a truck engine? OP needs to get some important details.
 

strutaeng

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Yeah, I was confused why you mentioned shortblock...

So basically a refreshed long block with some upgrades for $2000 is pretty good in my opinion.

I can't offer any advice on the cam though...who is the seller? Is it like a hobby "builder" guy? Nothing wrong with that. Maybe they can swap for another one closer to your use? Probably an additional charge if they are willing to do that for you. IDK.

What is you use anyways? That's important to know. List intended use, tire size, gear ratio and I guess this is a 6L?
 
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flynn78us

flynn78us

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So this is his statement when asked about the rings for daily use:
No, I barely opened them up to be safe on 12 lbs, the heads that are on it put it at about 11:1 compression anyway so it’s more desirable for n/a power not boost.

I want it for a daily driver suburban. It’s all stock with 3.08 gears and the number 8 keeps getting misfires and I thought that was due to the 180k plus with afm/dod. I really just want a daily that I won’t have afm/dod on. Figured it would be a quicker start. And most parts are already in there
 
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flynn78us

flynn78us

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Also he was building for a turbo avalanche but decided to sell the avalanche and use the cash for his Escalade
 

Foggy

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Decent deal.. But that cam is gonna suck with stock torque converter and
3.08 gearing.. Pretty lumpy cam. Will require a good tuner. And it won't
be in your rpm range 90% of the time on 5.3L
For the money, you could still buy it and swap out the camshaft !
 
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flynn78us

flynn78us

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I think you guys have convinced me to look onward. Should I start a new advise post or put it in this one? Basically knowing I have a non deleted 11 LC9 with 184ish k miles and a repeated number 8 misfire that comes and goes after plug replacement what are my next steps. Buy a stock 6.0 for a little more power, get another 5.3 and rebuild it?
 

j91z28d1

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I think you guys have convinced me to look onward. Should I start a new advise post or put it in this one? Basically knowing I have a non deleted 11 LC9 with 184ish k miles and a repeated number 8 misfire that comes and goes after plug replacement what are my next steps. Buy a stock 6.0 for a little more power, get another 5.3 and rebuild it?



I find the money spent doesn't hurt as much when you can consider it an upgrade. I vote 6.0.

as a in the mean time it could be interesting type thing, you could do the procedure dojetman did to his, to maybe unstick any rings, might help with #8 and add a 30$ catch can if you haven't to try and catch some of the oil going in while you look around. I do agree a 180k active afm on a vehicle you can't have go down would worry me too.
 

Geotrash

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I think you guys have convinced me to look onward. Should I start a new advise post or put it in this one? Basically knowing I have a non deleted 11 LC9 with 184ish k miles and a repeated number 8 misfire that comes and goes after plug replacement what are my next steps. Buy a stock 6.0 for a little more power, get another 5.3 and rebuild it?
We have guys on here with over 400K on their original AFM-equipped 5.3's. I'd be more inclined to troubleshoot the one you have. Misfires can come from multiple causes, and #8 is not an AFM cylinder, so I'd look at the wiring to the coil and injectors next. The AFM cylinders are 1,4,6,7. Also, are the plugs you're using either OEM or NGK from a known source like Rock Auto or a local parts store? Amazon and eBay are rife with fakes.

Are there any knocking noises accompanying this misfire? Are there any other stored codes when it happens?
 
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flynn78us

flynn78us

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We have guys on here with over 400K on their original AFM-equipped 5.3's. I'd be more inclined to troubleshoot the one you have. Misfires can come from multiple causes, and #8 is not an AFM cylinder, so I'd look at the wiring to the coil and injectors next. The AFM cylinders are 1,4,6,7. Also, are the plugs you're using either OEM or NGK from a known source like Rock Auto or a local parts store? Amazon and eBay are rife with fakes.

Are there any knocking noises accompanying this misfire? Are there any other stored codes when it happens?
Ticking, now some bucking I put in Bosch platinum plugs in it. Ensured gap was 40. Cleared the code (0308) now it has random misfire. Bucking is new and seems like it may be transmission related but unsure. I bought this truck at just over 90k from an older couple that did all major maintenance in Florida during the winter months on Cape Cod when I was stationed there.
 

Geotrash

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Ticking, now some bucking I put in Bosch platinum plugs in it. Ensured gap was 40. Cleared the code (0308) now it has random misfire. Bucking is new and seems like it may be transmission related but unsure. I bought this truck at just over 90k from an older couple that did all major maintenance in Florida during the winter months on Cape Cod when I was stationed there.
These engines are very sensitive to plugs. I can only tell you what I would do if it were mine. The factory plugs are iridium so I would start by replacing all eight plugs with these from Rock auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,2012,yukon+xl+1500,5.3l+v8,1502532,ignition,spark+plug,7212

And wires: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...5.3l+v8,1502532,ignition,spark+plug+wire,7224
 
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flynn78us

flynn78us

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I put those plug wires on last year in May. Same time I did the Bosch plugs. Went away until this week. I’ll throw the correct plugs in and see what that does.
 
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flynn78us

flynn78us

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I find the money spent doesn't hurt as much when you can consider it an upgrade. I vote 6.0.

as a in the mean time it could be interesting type thing, you could do the procedure dojetman did to his, to maybe unstick any rings, might help with #8 and add a 30$ catch can if you haven't to try and catch some of the oil going in while you look around. I do agree a 180k active afm on a vehicle you can't have go down would worry me too.
Can’t find the procedure @dojetman did? Is there a link?
 

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