Rise of the Turd-burban

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
45,012
Location
Li'l Weezyana
I dropped the dern thing and have a crack next to the air vent hole on the passenger side, but I think a little epoxy will fix it fine. I need to “rebuild” a couple of the side mounting tabs that broke off too. I’ll either build them out of JB weld, or may try plastic welding some pieces on.

Nooj

I'm a fan of J-B Weld Plastic Bonder
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
Sound quality in the turd is…. Lacking.
It has pioneer speakers in the doors, but they’re still fed through the factory amp. I plan on doing the bypass to get a better range through the door speakers.
As for right now though- I’m getting no action out of my tattered sub in the rear. Should it at least be trying to move? I get sound from the tweeter on that side (but not the opposite side).

And then there’s this
8C0EE302-43AA-49BD-A405-A28556EA4CA9.jpeg


I found that connected into the orange wire coming from the factory amp, here

C2046B28-4380-4C51-BE8C-BE18416FBBB0.jpeg


Any idea what this horse crap is?
Where would the factory sub likely be bypassed, if someone had used a separate sub and bypassed the factory one?

Nooj
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
Turns out the reason I had no sound from the rear sub is because it was crap.

19219D2D-551E-4A4E-A8AA-D6C183F1ECC8.jpeg


I reinstalled the power filter thing, and installed my new sub, which is the MB Quart Discus ds1-204.

2A33B8C9-17D2-43C1-B3A0-B6345C0ADD0F.jpeg


I now have bass!! Sounds much better, but I’m still going to do the crossover bypass for the door speakers when my parts come in tomorrow.

I caught hell trying to remount the jack and equipment back in the rear panel (they were just all laying in there, rattling about!). Found out I’m missing the stinking hook and knob to hold the wheel chocks to the Jack! That’s ok, I can fab that up. Another day, though.

You ever taken apart a mirror control switch? Here’s what it looks like

529EE827-AE5B-41EE-B888-944E49062280.jpeg

B0470854-AE66-4530-AFEA-759608961755.jpeg


Normally the traces on the circuit boards are the thin foil lines, but on this one it looked like the thin lines were the gaps between the conductors. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and gently scrubbed away tiny bits of unknown crusty substances between the conductors and between the solder joints. I also slightly bent the tiny fingers on the left/right selector switch outward so they’d make good contact. And VIOLA!! My power mirrors now work!
I wonder if it was bridging, or just crusted over with stuff, not allowing current flow when the pads made contact, or if it was just the L/R selector… The World May never know! Either way, they work now. Plus one for the ol me!

Tomorrow- road trip to pick up the parts car, using the un-tagged turd to haul it with!! Lord help me… I hope it makes it.

Nooj
 
Last edited:

Tonyrodz

Resident Resident
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Posts
33,185
Reaction score
51,399
Location
Central Jersey
Turns out the reason I had no sound from the rear sub is because it was crap.

View attachment 379813

I reinstalled the power filter thing, and installed my new sub, which is the MB Quart Discus ds1-204.

View attachment 379816

I now have bass!! Sounds much better, but I’m still going to do the crossover bypass for the door speakers when my parts come in tomorrow.

I caught hell trying to remount the jack and equipment back in the rear panel (they were just all laying in there, rattling about!). Found out I’m missing the stinking hook and knob to hold the wheel chocks to the Jack! That’s ok, I can fab that up. Another day, though.

You ever taken apart a mirror control switch? Here’s what it looks like

View attachment 379817
View attachment 379818

Normally the traces on the circuit boards are the thin foil lines, but on this one it looked like the thin lines were the gaps between the conductors. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and gently scrubbed away tiny bits of unknown crusty substances between the conductors and between the solder joints. I also slightly bent the tiny fingers on the left/right selector switch outward so they’d make good contact. And VIOLA!! My power mirrors now work!
I wonder if it was bridging, or just crusted over with stuff, not allowing current flow when the pads made contact, or if it was just the L/R selector… The World May never know! Either way, they work now. Plus one for the ol me!

Tomorrow- road trip to pick up the parts car, using the un-tagged turd to haul it with!! Lord help me… I hope it makes it.

Nooj
Hopefully it has the extra parts for the jack. I love parts cars!
Is your new sub an 8" in the original sub box? Was that sub pricey?
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
Hopefully it has the extra parts for the jack. I love parts cars!
Is your new sub an 8" in the original sub box? Was that sub pricey?
It was fairly cheap ($63) and yes it’s 8” and it fit the factory sub box without any modification. Well, I drilled a few holes through the box to mount it- but that’s it.
I wired the two 4 ohm coils in parallel so it matches with the 2 ohm factory specs. I think the wattage range and box requirements are within spec as well.

Yes, I’m hoping for all the obscure extra parts I need on the donor!

Nooj
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
This weekend has been busy and terribly unproductive…

Planned on picking up the parts turd, couldn’t get my uncles trailer… I at least went and paid for it, seen it in person. It’s in better shape than the original turd! Couldn’t get it home today.

Tried to do the factory amp bypass

E9422158-0C61-46CA-8F40-F5F3CBD76320.jpeg

Once again- action taking place at the soldering station, as I use magical skills to create an electrical gizmo of epic proportions! But one of my connectors was missing TWO DÂMN wires/pins- so I can’t complete this bîotch…

FedEx is also slowing my weekend progress by parading my rock auto order around the country before hopefully bringing them to rest at my doorstep.

Also, It’s hotter than a four balled tomcat in my garage.

Maybe good luck will befall upon me tomorrow.

Nooj
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
Navy Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
23,720
Reaction score
44,161
Location
Willamette Valley
This weekend has been busy and terribly unproductive…

Planned on picking up the parts turd, couldn’t get my uncles trailer… I at least went and paid for it, seen it in person. It’s in better shape than the original turd! Couldn’t get it home today.

Tried to do the factory amp bypass

View attachment 379865
Once again- action taking place at the soldering station, as I use magical skills to create an electrical gizmo of epic proportions! But one of my connectors was missing TWO DÂMN wires/pins- so I can’t complete this bîotch…

FedEx is also slowing my weekend progress by parading my rock auto order around the country before hopefully bringing them to rest at my doorstep.

Also, It’s hotter than a four balled tomcat in my garage.

Maybe good luck will befall upon me tomorrow.

Nooj
I have heard of those "four balled tomcats" and will raise you with a "three peckered billy goat" and a "fresh +f_u_c_K_E_D+ fox in a forest fire". BY GOD!
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
I have heard of those "four balled tomcats" and will raise you with a "three peckered billy goat" and a "fresh +f_u_c_K_E_D+ fox in a forest fire". BY GOD!

Today it was hotter than two rats f*ckin in a wool sock. I was sweating like a virgin reading a love letter. Felt like my nuts were sawing my legs off, and my âss cheeks done went phase to phase (electrician humor).

Stayed busier than a puppy with two peters this weekend, and accomplished a governmental amount- ie: a whilole lotta dîcking around, spent lots of money and have nothing to show for it.

Nooj
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
Navy Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
23,720
Reaction score
44,161
Location
Willamette Valley
I was busier than a long tailed cat in a room full of rockin' chairs organizing my tools and I found a tool I had bought thinking that I did not have it when I actually did and felt dumber than a screen door in a submarine. I worked up a sweat out in the G-A-Y-r-o-g and came in to the a/c turned down so low I was colder than a witches t*i*t in a brass bra.

I was in a hurry and turned right into the edge of the bathroom door, to go back to work and man oh man, that door edge was harder than a preacher's p--r--i--c--k at a double weddin'. Tuff day all around
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
I’m getting a high frequency vibration in the floorboard. I’m going to explain it as simply as I can so you guys might be able to help me figure it out.

-Imagine “the missus” left her personal massager in the car, and it’s rolling around near your feet, on.

-it’s noticeable around 20-30mph mostly. Much faster than that and the frequency is so high that it’s nearly imperceptible.

-engine rpm has no effect, nor does turning or breaking.

-it’s not constant, it’s coming and going (remember- the massager is rolling around).

-There’s no sound, vibration in the wheel or brake pedal.

I was thinking wheel bearing, but if that’s going bad wouldn’t it be more noisy?
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
45,012
Location
Li'l Weezyana
I’m getting a high frequency vibration in the floorboard. I’m going to explain it as simply as I can so you guys might be able to help me figure it out.

-Imagine “the missus” left her personal massager in the car, and it’s rolling around near your feet, on.

-it’s noticeable around 20-30mph mostly. Much faster than that and the frequency is so high that it’s nearly imperceptible.

-engine rpm has no effect, nor does turning or breaking.

-it’s not constant, it’s coming and going (remember- the massager is rolling around).

-There’s no sound, vibration in the wheel or brake pedal.

I was thinking wheel bearing, but if that’s going bad wouldn’t it be more noisy?


Downshift and see if it comes and goes with throttle to load and unload the driveline to possibly rule out/in U-joints. 4WD?
 
OP
OP
N

Nooj

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2022
Posts
85
Reaction score
303
Downshift and see if it comes and goes with throttle to load and unload the driveline to possibly rule out/in U-joints. 4WD?
I’ll give that a try on the way to work in the morning and report my findings.
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
Navy Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
23,720
Reaction score
44,161
Location
Willamette Valley
You can check front wheel bearings/hubs by doing slight steering wheel turn from 10 to 2 and if you go to 2, the load is at the lf bearing/hub and same for other side when turn to 10 at left. You may also have motor mount problems. Hold foot on brake, set parking brake and have a trusted friend pop the throttle in drive and reverse to see if one side or the other, of the engine, pops up. If just rises a little, then mount is holding. You do not want to just floor it...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,745
Posts
1,991,091
Members
102,734
Latest member
WITCH1975
Back
Top