Replace lower ball joint

[LiLRedWagon]

I've seen the topic here, which although helpful,...
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/how-to-repllace-upper-lower-ball-joints-on-nnbs-tahoe.46406/

...did not go quite as planned for me when doing it for the first time. There are some PPV-specific differences unless I missed something.
http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=534862

 

[AppocAlexx]

What issues did you run into. Did my UCAs and lower balls joins a few months ago and looked about the same as that first thread you posted. Mine is an 07 SSV.

 

[kbuskill]

I've seen the topic here, which although helpful,...
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/how-to-repllace-upper-lower-ball-joints-on-nnbs-tahoe.46406/

...did not go quite as planned for me when doing it for the first time. There are some PPV-specific differences unless I missed something.
http://www.tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=534862

I am not sure that those are PPV specific control arms.

When you look up ball joints for the 07-14 gmt-900 platform that is NON PPV/SSV specific it lists the ball joints for steel OR aluminum control arms.

The guy in the first post you linked to installed the WRONG ball joints in his aluminum control arms which is why I asked him about it in that thread. I am shocked that no one else has ever noticed that or mentioned it before, that is why he couldn't seat it far enough to get the clip installed because the aluminum arms are thicker than the steel arms for obvious reasons.

They install the aluminum arms on a lot of 4x4 trucks to reduce the weight up front.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

They are not. The difference is simply aluminum vs. steel.

FYI, the OEM aluminum LCAs aren't that expensive from GM. I purchased all four control arms to swap onto our PPV. The plan is to replace the bushings and ball joints on the take-offs so we have them for spares.

 

[metelhead]

Note: I have a non PPV 09 LT......

However I'm about to do a total front end rebuild.....

seems most pp opt to bang out the Lower Ball Joint out of the LCA.....Once I saw how inexpensive the Lower Control Arms/Ball joints assemblies were, that just became a no-brainer to me...for about $40 per side price difference to save me 3-4 hours of beating and hammering...I'm in!!. The AC delco LCA was about $75 amazon prime vs. $30 for just the lower ball joint.

- I just received the UCA, LCA, and sway bar links yesterday...I went with either AC delco or moog parts, just waiting on the inner/outer Tie Rods today....if the weather cooperates installation should be today or tomorrow.

I will be renting a tie rod inner removal tool today, my biggest concern about doing this job is just the removal of lower ball joint from the Hub carrier...finger crossed its just below grease.

 

[kbuskill]

Note: I have a non PPV 09 LT......

However I'm about to do a total front end rebuild.....

seems most pp opt to bang out the Lower Ball Joint out of the LCA.....Once I saw how inexpensive the Lower Control Arms/Ball joints assemblies were, that just became a no-brainer to me...for about $40 per side price difference to save me 3-4 hours of beating and hammering...I'm in!!. The AC delco LCA was about $75 amazon prime vs. $30 for just the lower ball joint.

- I just received the UCA, LCA, and sway bar links yesterday...I went with either AC delco or moog parts, just waiting on the inner/outer Tie Rods today....if the weather cooperates installation should be today or tomorrow.

I will be renting a tie rod inner removal tool today, my biggest concern about doing this job is just the removal of lower ball joint from the Hub carrier...finger crossed its just below grease.

A pickle fork will work to separate the Lower ball joint from the spindle but the easiest way is to loosen the nut but leave it on the ball joint stud a few turns and then smack the shit out of the side of the spindle right where the ball joint goes through... It should pop loose but leaving the nut on keeps things from going flying.

 

[metelhead]

A pickle fork will work to separate the Lower ball joint from the spindle but the easiest way is to loosen the nut but leave it on the ball joint stud a few turns and then smack the shit out of the side of the spindle right where the ball joint goes through... It should pop loose but leaving the nut on keeps things from going flying.

Yes, perfect thanks for the conformation....

I went and rented the inner tie-rod tool however several parts didn't show today...In fact one of the boxes from UPS according to tracking info said it was already delivered, so I called amazon and explained the details...Amazon didn't believe UPS, and hence has reissued a new part out today...thats hell of customer service.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

A pickle fork will work to separate the Lower ball joint from the spindle but the easiest way is to loosen the nut but leave it on the ball joint stud a few turns and then smack the shit out of the side of the spindle right where the ball joint goes through... It should pop loose but leaving the nut on keeps things from going flying.

The problem with the lower control arm configuration on the Tahoe is that since the ball joint stud goes down through the hole in the spindle, using spring tension to break the connection loose with the BFH trick works against you. When we did the drop on our Tahoe, I ended up having to use a ball joint press, kind of backwards, putting pressure on the ball joint stud, then whacking the snot out of the spindle to get it to break loose. All sorts of wailing on the spindle with a hand sledge wasn't working for me.

I guess I should have taken a picture of the configuration, because it's kind of unique to the NNBS truck.

 

[metelhead]

...having attempted to do this yesterday, I'm convinced its the size of the hammer which might matter most......my hammer was grossly inadequate

 

[kbuskill]

...having attempted to do this yesterday, I'm convinced its the size of the hammer which might matter most......my hammer was grossly inadequate

That's what she said... Lol

 

[992dr]

Like metalhead, I'm going to be doing my front end.

Is the biggest PITA going to be removing the ball joint from the lower?

I'm going with new control arms so I can install new bushings. Like crash, I'll be rebuilding the ones I take off and keep them for future rebuilds.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I believe so, 992. I haven't done the full monty yet, although I do have the control arms in stock now. One of the ball joints popped right loose using the BFH on the spindle trick, the other (driver's side) did not.

Loosen the nut so that it's even with the tip of the stud. Then put a floor jack against that nut/stud and lift it a bit. Then wail on the lower spindle where the stud goes through it. You may get lucky.

 

[metelhead]

I believe so, 992. I haven't done the full monty yet, although I do have the control arms in stock now. One of the ball joints popped right loose using the BFH on the spindle trick, the other (driver's side) did not.

Loosen the nut so that it's even with the tip of the stud. Then put a floor jack against that nut/stud and lift it a bit. Then wail on the lower spindle where the stud goes through it. You may get lucky.

I like that idea...note you'd have to have the shock installed to make that work I think.
I fought like crazy to get mine done this weekend...in the end the LBJ won, so I figured its got some more miles left in it if its not ready to come out yet

 

[Kenny D]

If you are trying to separate the BJ from the spindle, then a fork would work best. As for beating the BJ out of the LCA, then renting the press will save your sanity. If you go the BFH route, add heat to the LCA then smash away. If you beat the crap out of your BJ trying to get it out of the LCA but ended up leaving it in, you may find yourself back at this again sooner than you think. All that shock didn't do it any favors.

 

[08HoeCD]

Still not sure why so many choose to fight the lower ball joint rather than replace the lower control arm assembly during a DIY. Yeah, it costs a little more to do the whole assembly, but the aggravation factor has got to be WAAAY lower, and many times the control arm bushings need replaced at the same time or soon after anyway.

 

[metelhead]

Still not sure why so many choose to fight the lower ball joint rather than replace the lower control arm assembly during a DIY. Yeah, it costs a little more to do the whole assembly, but the aggravation factor has got to be WAAAY lower, and many times the control arm bushings need replaced at the same time or soon after anyway.

Well you right about that...however much of this discussion is simply about separating the ball joint from the spindle....trust me I lost that fight this weekend.

 

[992dr]

I believe so, 992. I haven't done the full monty yet, although I do have the control arms in stock now. One of the ball joints popped right loose using the BFH on the spindle trick, the other (driver's side) did not.

Loosen the nut so that it's even with the tip of the stud. Then put a floor jack against that nut/stud and lift it a bit. Then wail on the lower spindle where the stud goes through it. You may get lucky.

Will you be posting when you're ready for the full monty?
Great idea.

If you are trying to separate the BJ from the spindle, then a fork would work best. As for beating the BJ out of the LCA, then renting the press will save your sanity. If you go the BFH route, add heat to the LCA then smash away. If you beat the crap out of your BJ trying to get it out of the LCA but ended up leaving it in, you may find yourself back at this again sooner than you think. All that shock didn't do it any favors.

Pickle forks are great and a must in any home mechanics tool box. I'll be using mine for sure.
No beating on BJs, I'll be using a press.

Still not sure why so many choose to fight the lower ball joint rather than replace the lower control arm assembly during a DIY. Yeah, it costs a little more to do the whole assembly, but the aggravation factor has got to be WAAAY lower, and many times the control arm bushings need replaced at the same time or soon after anyway.

I'm purchasing all new parts
I'm using my old ones to rebuild and store away.

 

[08HoeCD]

Well you right about that...however much of this discussion is simply about separating the ball joint from the spindle....trust me I lost that fight this weekend.

I just can't stand the idea of being high & dry. Lol

Hang in there, brother. Keep us posted.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Will you be posting when you're ready for the full monty?
Great idea.



Pickle forks are great and a must in any home mechanics tool box. I'll be using mine for sure.
No beating on BJs, I'll be using a press.



I'm purchasing all new parts
I'm using my old ones to rebuild and store away.

I may, but I think the swap is pretty straight-forward. The fork is a good tool, if used correctly. If you're separating the ball joint to service the spindle, or some other part, planning to reuse the old ball joint, the fork can many times damage the boot that protects the joint and holds the grease in.

I also have a fork, albeit one that goes on the end of an air hammer, but I've found the hammer trick to work wonderfully on 99.9% of the car's I've ever worked on. That, and you don't damage the boot.

I don't think you can beat the ball joint out of the lower control arm, but have to cut the swedge off that holds it in place on the control arm, then press it out. I guess heat and a hammer can do the job, but I'd expect the press to be much more efficient removing the ball joint from the control arm.

I use the hammer only to separate the ball joint stud from the spindle.

 

[992dr]

I may, but I think the swap is pretty straight-forward. The fork is a good tool, if used correctly. If you're separating the ball joint to service the spindle, or some other part, planning to reuse the old ball joint, the fork can many times damage the boot that protects the joint and holds the grease in.

I also have a fork, albeit one that goes on the end of an air hammer, but I've found the hammer trick to work wonderfully on 99.9% of the car's I've ever worked on. That, and you don't damage the boot.

I don't think you can beat the ball joint out of the lower control arm, but have to cut the swedge off that holds it in place on the control arm, then press it out. I guess heat and a hammer can do the job, but I'd expect the press to be much more efficient removing the ball joint from the control arm.

I use the hammer only to separate the ball joint stud from the spindle.

True, it is pretty straight forward. And once you've done it a few times, it just gets easier every time after that.

I typically pull the fork out when replacing ball joints for that reason.

No way you're beating the ball joint out unless you're using a 20lb sledge haha.