How do you replace lower ball joint?

[JamesLond]

After replacing my upper control arm, I looked down and saw that somehow the boot on my lower ball joint split open during the repair.

I looked up info on it for my Yukon, but data seems sparse. One place mentioned I'd have to drill out rivets.

If you know about a dealer tool to do the job, please share the part number on it.

It looks like universal press tools don't work. I also saw some guy on youtube wailing on the lower control arm forever trying to get one out and I'd like to avoid going that route.

 

[OR VietVet]

Best to get the complete lower arm and comes with ball joint and new bushings. If is time for ball joints, it is likely time for bushings. You can go to RA and use their 5% off code and get cheap or quality. I have an 05 Z71 with alll Genuine GM control arms on it and could not be happier.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Coincidentally, I gave the front suspension parts a good shot of lube today. Doesn't the lower balljoint have a zerk fitting? I couldn't find one, but it might have been hiding.
Do replacements come with a means to keep them lubed?

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

After replacing my upper control arm, I looked down and saw that somehow the boot on my lower ball joint split open during the repair.

I looked up info on it for my Yukon, but data seems sparse. One place mentioned I'd have to drill out rivets.

If you know about a dealer tool to do the job, please share the part number on it.

It looks like universal press tools don't work. I also saw some guy on youtube wailing on the lower control arm forever trying to get one out and I'd like to avoid going that route.

I rebuilt everything on my truck. I used poly bushings as well. Wouldn't go ANY other route. I currently have MEVOTECH ball joints which seem to work quite well. I had previously replaced with Moog and they wore out within a few thousand miles!

Is your truck 4wd? I have to look at my truck but it was pretty straight forward. I believe I had to pull the CV axel though to get at it as well as unhook the steering knuckle. It's way more than doable.

The previous design before NBS is riveted though... If that's what you have 1 Road on YouTube has a tutorial. You drill out the factory ball joint / rivets, then new one bolts on.

 

[swathdiver]

I had previously replaced with Moog and they wore out within a few thousand miles!

CK Series or RK Series?

 

[tRidiot]

I currently have MEVOTECH ball joints which seem to work quite well. I had previously replaced with Moog and they wore out within a few thousand miles!

CK Series or RK Series?

That was exactly my question! I was looking at a full front end rebuild, but life concerns got in the way and funds had to be redirected.

 

[mattbta]

My stock front LCA's had those little steel tabs over the ball joint. I dremel'd/chiseled them away and used a hammer to push the old one out. The press set I rented from AutoZone was able to press in the new and the snap ring holds it in.

 

[OR VietVet]

Trying to answer @NoReverseYukon post but the QUOTE part is messed up right now.

OE ball joints typically come with no grease zerks. If you see no grease zerk, is likely an OE ball joint. Aftermarket ball joints typically come with the zerks.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As stated above, replace the entire control arm, and you'll get a new ball joint and new bushings.

 

[MassHoe04]

Wait... What?!
There's supposed to be bushings in there?