Replace lower ball joint

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992dr

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Like metalhead, I'm going to be doing my front end.

Is the biggest PITA going to be removing the ball joint from the lower?

I'm going with new control arms so I can install new bushings. Like crash, I'll be rebuilding the ones I take off and keep them for future rebuilds.
 

CrashTestDummy

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I believe so, 992. I haven't done the full monty yet, although I do have the control arms in stock now. One of the ball joints popped right loose using the BFH on the spindle trick, the other (driver's side) did not.

Loosen the nut so that it's even with the tip of the stud. Then put a floor jack against that nut/stud and lift it a bit. Then wail on the lower spindle where the stud goes through it. You may get lucky.
 

metelhead

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I believe so, 992. I haven't done the full monty yet, although I do have the control arms in stock now. One of the ball joints popped right loose using the BFH on the spindle trick, the other (driver's side) did not.

Loosen the nut so that it's even with the tip of the stud. Then put a floor jack against that nut/stud and lift it a bit. Then wail on the lower spindle where the stud goes through it. You may get lucky.


I like that idea...note you'd have to have the shock installed to make that work I think.
I fought like crazy to get mine done this weekend...in the end the LBJ won, so I figured its got some more miles left in it if its not ready to come out yet:)
 

Kenny D

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If you are trying to separate the BJ from the spindle, then a fork would work best. As for beating the BJ out of the LCA, then renting the press will save your sanity. If you go the BFH route, add heat to the LCA then smash away. If you beat the crap out of your BJ trying to get it out of the LCA but ended up leaving it in, you may find yourself back at this again sooner than you think. All that shock didn't do it any favors.
 

08HoeCD

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Still not sure why so many choose to fight the lower ball joint rather than replace the lower control arm assembly during a DIY. Yeah, it costs a little more to do the whole assembly, but the aggravation factor has got to be WAAAY lower, and many times the control arm bushings need replaced at the same time or soon after anyway.
 

metelhead

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Still not sure why so many choose to fight the lower ball joint rather than replace the lower control arm assembly during a DIY. Yeah, it costs a little more to do the whole assembly, but the aggravation factor has got to be WAAAY lower, and many times the control arm bushings need replaced at the same time or soon after anyway.

Well you right about that...however much of this discussion is simply about separating the ball joint from the spindle....trust me I lost that fight this weekend.
 

992dr

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I believe so, 992. I haven't done the full monty yet, although I do have the control arms in stock now. One of the ball joints popped right loose using the BFH on the spindle trick, the other (driver's side) did not.

Loosen the nut so that it's even with the tip of the stud. Then put a floor jack against that nut/stud and lift it a bit. Then wail on the lower spindle where the stud goes through it. You may get lucky.

Will you be posting when you're ready for the full monty?
Great idea.

If you are trying to separate the BJ from the spindle, then a fork would work best. As for beating the BJ out of the LCA, then renting the press will save your sanity. If you go the BFH route, add heat to the LCA then smash away. If you beat the crap out of your BJ trying to get it out of the LCA but ended up leaving it in, you may find yourself back at this again sooner than you think. All that shock didn't do it any favors.

Pickle forks are great and a must in any home mechanics tool box. I'll be using mine for sure.
No beating on BJs, I'll be using a press.

Still not sure why so many choose to fight the lower ball joint rather than replace the lower control arm assembly during a DIY. Yeah, it costs a little more to do the whole assembly, but the aggravation factor has got to be WAAAY lower, and many times the control arm bushings need replaced at the same time or soon after anyway.

I'm purchasing all new parts
I'm using my old ones to rebuild and store away.
 

08HoeCD

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Well you right about that...however much of this discussion is simply about separating the ball joint from the spindle....trust me I lost that fight this weekend.

I just can't stand the idea of being high & dry. Lol

Hang in there, brother. Keep us posted.
 

CrashTestDummy

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Will you be posting when you're ready for the full monty?
Great idea.



Pickle forks are great and a must in any home mechanics tool box. I'll be using mine for sure.
No beating on BJs, I'll be using a press.



I'm purchasing all new parts
I'm using my old ones to rebuild and store away.

I may, but I think the swap is pretty straight-forward. The fork is a good tool, if used correctly. If you're separating the ball joint to service the spindle, or some other part, planning to reuse the old ball joint, the fork can many times damage the boot that protects the joint and holds the grease in.

I also have a fork, albeit one that goes on the end of an air hammer, but I've found the hammer trick to work wonderfully on 99.9% of the car's I've ever worked on. That, and you don't damage the boot.

I don't think you can beat the ball joint out of the lower control arm, but have to cut the swedge off that holds it in place on the control arm, then press it out. I guess heat and a hammer can do the job, but I'd expect the press to be much more efficient removing the ball joint from the control arm.

I use the hammer only to separate the ball joint stud from the spindle.
 

992dr

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I may, but I think the swap is pretty straight-forward. The fork is a good tool, if used correctly. If you're separating the ball joint to service the spindle, or some other part, planning to reuse the old ball joint, the fork can many times damage the boot that protects the joint and holds the grease in.

I also have a fork, albeit one that goes on the end of an air hammer, but I've found the hammer trick to work wonderfully on 99.9% of the car's I've ever worked on. That, and you don't damage the boot.

I don't think you can beat the ball joint out of the lower control arm, but have to cut the swedge off that holds it in place on the control arm, then press it out. I guess heat and a hammer can do the job, but I'd expect the press to be much more efficient removing the ball joint from the control arm.

I use the hammer only to separate the ball joint stud from the spindle.

True, it is pretty straight forward. And once you've done it a few times, it just gets easier every time after that.

I typically pull the fork out when replacing ball joints for that reason.

No way you're beating the ball joint out unless you're using a 20lb sledge haha.
 

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