Tips/tricks for separating lower ball joint 2018 Tahoe PPV?

[CrashTestDummy]

We're mostly done loosening/removing everything on the front of our '18 PPV to install the Beltech 2" drop kit. We are struggling with separating the lower ball joint from the spindle, though. We've tried wailing on it with a BFH, slipping something between the LCA and spindle and jacking it up to hopefully wedge the piece between the two and separate them, heat with a BFH, pretty much everything I can think of except a ball joint separator tool. I'd like to NOT do that, as it'll tear up the boot. Heck, we even got out our sorta-power tool and wedged that between the LCA and spindle. Nada!!

We used a pitman arm puller on the tie rod and upper ball joints, but, sadly, it's too short for the lower. IIRC, when we did our '10 Tahoe, all it took was a jack under the lower stud and a BFH. That's not getting us anywhere this time. It's pretty rust-free, being a Texas vehicle, but I do now have it soaking in PB Blaster in case that helps any.

While we could do LCAs AND the drop kit, it'll add another $500 to the project. The ball joints and bushings look in otherwise good shape for a 103K mile vehicle.

Thoughts? Tips? Tricks? Thanks!!

 

[k_arnold72]

Penetrative fluids, and worst case scenario heating up the spindle at risk of ruining the joint.

Combination of these was how I did mine with the same kit. I remember having a hard time as well.

 

[tom3]

On the old cast iron spindles two hammers would pop it out. One big hammer to buck it with and a good sized ball peen to hit it. Hit the knuckle on the side. Has never failed me. Not sure what's actually there on your machine.

 

[swathdiver]

We're mostly done loosening/removing everything on the front of our '18 PPV to install the Beltech 2" drop kit. We are struggling with separating the lower ball joint from the spindle, though. We've tried wailing on it with a BFH, slipping something between the LCA and spindle and jacking it up to hopefully wedge the piece between the two and separate them, heat with a BFH, pretty much everything I can think of except a ball joint separator tool. I'd like to NOT do that, as it'll tear up the boot. Heck, we even got out our sorta-power tool and wedged that between the LCA and spindle. Nada!!

We used a pitman arm puller on the tie rod and upper ball joints, but, sadly, it's too short for the lower. IIRC, when we did our '10 Tahoe, all it took was a jack under the lower stud and a BFH. That's not getting us anywhere this time. It's pretty rust-free, being a Texas vehicle, but I do now have it soaking in PB Blaster in case that helps any.

While we could do LCAs AND the drop kit, it'll add another $500 to the project. The ball joints and bushings look in otherwise good shape for a 103K mile vehicle.

Thoughts? Tips? Tricks? Thanks!!

You need the tool specifically made to do this job on our trucks:

J-43631

Stop by the house, you can borrow mine!

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Penetrative fluids, and worst case scenario heating up the spindle at risk of ruining the joint.

Combination of these was how I did mine with the same kit. I remember having a hard time as well.

Yeah, I tried the heat, but it was from a Burns-A-Matic torch, not an oxyacetylene torch, so probably not enough heat there.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

On the old cast iron spindles two hammers would pop it out. One big hammer to buck it with and a good sized ball peen to hit it. Hit the knuckle on the side. Has never failed me. Not sure what's actually there on your machine.

While not using another hammer as a buck, I'm smacking the knuckle area pretty good with a 2 lb hand sledge, and having no luck.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

You need the tool specifically made to do this job on our trucks:

View attachment 443403

J-43631

Stop by the house, you can borrow mine!

On my way!! Be there in about 12 hours!!

Ordered a cheap Chinesium copy, only because I could supposedly get it by tomorrow, but will probably order a proper Kent-Moore tool so I have one in the box. I'll also be checking the local parts house today to see what they have in their loaner pile.

 

[k_arnold72]

When the spot you're applying to starts to glow, it's hot enough. It took me a combination of pbblaster and heat methods and patience

Yeah, I tried the heat, but it was from a Burns-A-Matic torch, not an oxyacetylene torch, so probably not enough heat there.

 

[Doubeleive]

I know you already ordered a tool but a run of the meal puller should have worked fine
even a harbor freight one. I have had a adjustable one in my tool box for a few decades
something like this, if you need it shorter or longer a quick trip to the hardware store for a bolt with the same thread is all it takes
can be a puller or pusher

12PCS Heavy Duty Bearing Separator Removal Tool Kit Wheel Hub Axle Puller Pxoxkq | eBay

12Pcs/set Wheel Hub Axle Puller Set Bearing Removal Splitter Separator Tool Rbyi. Note: With this bearing puller kit, tight bearings, inner rings, magnetic wheels, drums ,Fly Wheel ,Gear Puller and other components can be easily removed.

www.ebay.com

 

[Tonyv__]

If I was in your shoes, I’d use a pickle fork and a BFH. They have never let me down, even with PA rust. If you ruin the boot, rent a C clamp press and press a new ball joint in.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

If I was in your shoes, I’d use a pickle fork and a BFH. They have never let me down, even with PA rust. If you ruin the boot, rent a C clamp press and press a new ball joint in.

IIRC, the BJs are non-replaceable. They look welded into the LCAs to me, and while I haven't specifically looked, I haven't seen a separate listing for just the BJs. But if that's an option, I'll cut the ones on the current LCA and replace with the spindle.

 

[wjburken]

IIRC, the BJs are non-replaceable. They look welded into the LCAs to me, and while I haven't specifically looked, I haven't seen a separate listing for just the BJs. But if that's an option, I'll cut the ones on the current LCA and replace with the spindle.

 

[Tonyv__]

IIRC, the BJs are non-replaceable. They look welded into the LCAs to me, and while I haven't specifically looked, I haven't seen a separate listing for just the BJs. But if that's an option, I'll cut the ones on the current LCA and replace with the spindle.

I think its the other way around. bottoms are serviceable and the tops are not. however, rock auto list upper and lowers available for sale.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Weird. As I said, they both look welded on to me.

BUT, we had success!! While I have the $200 Kent-Moore J-43631 tool on order (should be here Friday), I found a cheap Chinesium ($40) one that we could get in one day from the Jeff Bezos. Reviews were all 1's or 5's, and I figured even though I had the other one on its way, I really wanted to get this job done.

The cheap tool arrived this afternoon, just as we were finishing up cleaning our weapons from this morning's range trip. Since we still had some daylight and a few hours before dinner, we ran out to see if we could have any success. I cranked it on there pretty tight, but even after smacking the knuckle with the 2# hammer, nothing.... until ->BANG!<- the knuckle broke loose! Went over to the other side, cranked down on it again, and while I was doing something else, BANG! again.

We left it at that, since my gimp shoulder is kind of sore from the range trip. The work in the rear should be relatively trivial, so we hope to button it all up tomorrow.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

And... done!! Took MUCH longer than anticipated, but that seems to happen with us these days. Took a few iterations trimming the LBJ stud before we got clearance, Clarence ( ) but we finally got it all together. Rides fine, and looks better. We even put new wiper blades on it, since the ones it had were chattering across the windshield.

One thing to note, it's not said in the install directions, but you'll want to insert the top hub bolt in the new spindle BEFORE you install it. Once the upper ball joint nut is in place, there's zero room to slide that bolt into place. That was yet another delay in the install. Now I know.

Thanks for all the help and tips. They really helped!! Still waiting for the Kent-Moore tool, but the Chinese one did the job this time.

Pardon the dirt. It doesn't sit still long, and it's now cold outside. We'll probably throw the standard Tahoe front spoiler on it soon. Should help mileage a bit.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

View attachment 443479View attachment 443480

Yeah, the lower BJ is replaceable, but you're hammering the chiseled-over edges with a hammer and chisel, and still haven't gotten to the pressing it off bit yet. IMHO, I'd just replace the whole dang thing, and I really hate just replacing units (throwing out the front wheel hub on our '12 Caprice, not being able to rebuild it really brought me some angst).