reedal's '03 Tahoe build

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05Single

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Came put clean and flush . Glad I was wrong on my assumption :emotions133:
 

05Single

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Also forgot to ask , were your trim pieces glued in or clipped in? Mine were glued to the carpet and didn't really clip in.
 
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reedal

reedal

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Also forgot to ask , were your trim pieces glued in or clipped in? Mine were glued to the carpet and didn't really clip in.
They are glued to the carpet, but they clip onto the little metal bars that the seats are supposed to lock into
 
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reedal

reedal

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Got some work done yesterday and today.

Yesterday, I ran the RCAs and remote turn on/ SMD meter wires under the center console to the second row, put interior panels back in, seats in, bolted everything that needed it back down (thank goodness for an impact, that makes light work of it). Today I put the 80PRS back in, and the dash back together. I got some grommets in, so I just need to find a good spot to drill a couple holes, run some 1/0, cut some wood and build a new amp/battery rack. Unfortunately, my wire came in but my terminals weren't with them, so I'm trying to get droppinhz to figure that part out... it's been a troublesome order with them. Here are some pics of the interior back together. Don't mind the loose wires, I don't have a place to connect everything to yet.


Front seats back in

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Back seats in

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Trim back together without any issues

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Second Skin Speaker Tweakers in the doors. Two each in the front doors, and one in each back door.

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New single din mount I stumbled across going through someone's BL on diyma. I thought it was kinda cool. You can get a personalized mount for your HU and your vehicle at http://humount.com/

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Thanks for looking
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Tonyrodz

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Looking good. What's that in the upper center console bezel? Where the cubby used to be, under the power points.
 
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reedal

reedal

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Looking good. What's that in the upper center console bezel? Where the cubby used to be, under the power points.

It's a PAC LC-1 gain control knob, a USB port that connects to the rear of the 80PRS, a SMD VM-1 volt meter, and SMD OM-1 output meter so I make sure I don't send a clipped signal to the sub amps
 
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reedal

reedal

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Bought some PIAA 880's for the fogs (so now I have PIAA's for highs, lows, and fogs) and a fleece all lights on module to replace the cheap method, which was a diode connecting the relays.

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i need to align the fogs still, so no pictures of the fogs and all lights on until I get that done.


also, I've had a "Service Brake Booster" message ever since I installed my singer 270A alt back in June of 2015. All of the research said it was the SBA (supplemental brake assist) causing it. I verified it had ground on the connector where it was supposed to, and power coming in where it was supposed to. I finally got a replacement SBA, and I still have the message. So I guess I'll run it to a stealership and have them diagnose it and then I'll do the repair.
 

05Single

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Nice work!
Those speaker tweakers legit? I've never used them
Careful with 50w in those fog housings. But I might just be paranoid too. My 35w hids haven't melted mine yet.
 
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reedal

reedal

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Nice work!
Those speaker tweakers legit? I've never used them
Careful with 50w in those fog housings. But I might just be paranoid too. My 35w hids haven't melted mine yet.

I've never used them either, but it's supposed to help the speaker response. Guess we'll see. I got them 30% off each, so I figured give it a shot
 
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reedal

reedal

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After driving around for a few days (no stereo equipment installed yet) it's a pretty quiet ride. The only thing I hear is the wind against the windows, and a small amount of engine noise, which I'm sure would be quieted if I had done the firewall. I'm satisfied with the results of all of the noise dampening I installed. Time to get to work on reinstalling the stereo equipment.
 
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reedal

reedal

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These came in the other day.

Two SMD quad ANL fuse holders
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And a DC Power Inc. triple alt bracket
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But it's time to work on the door pods.
 
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reedal

reedal

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I haven't spent anymore time on the pods since I started them last week, so I decided that since I was stuck on the ship today for duty, and I didn't have night watch, I'd bring them and my dremel in and get rid of the excess glass and make them sit flush inside of the factory grilles.

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Couple of air bubbles inside that one, thought I got them all good with my roller, but oh well. They're both pretty solid and layered. Sometime this week/weekend I'll see how they sit in the doors, and I'll drill a couple holes and either glass or glue some bolts for mounting into place. Once that's done, it'll be time to angle the speaker rings where I want, glue them into place, then stretch some cloth and glass it for strength, a little (ha!) body work, and paint. Or maybe I'll bedline them to hide my horrible bodyworking. We'll see.
 

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Damn brother, just read the entire build...awesome work! You're the perfect person that should be able to answer my question regarding stereo installations. I have to run 3 rca's and 1 remote wire from the hu back to the amps including 4/0 power and ground cables. I plan on running the remote/rca's on the passenger side and the power and ground on the drivers side

I bought these rca's... KnuKonceptz Krystal Twisted Pair 2 Channel Smoke RCA Cable 20ft 6M OFC | eBay but they're as thick as 4/0 wire! My system will consist of 2- 1000 watt 10'' rockford fosgate subs and 4- 90 watt 6.5''watt rockford forget door speakers, 1- 2000 watt mono amp for the subs and 1- 500 watt amp for the door speakers...nothing nearly as crazy as yours lol

Are those rca's overkill? or should I just run normal sized rca's since they won't fit under the floor trim?
 
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reedal

reedal

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Damn brother, just read the entire build...awesome work! You're the perfect person that should be able to answer my question regarding stereo installations. I have to run 3 rca's and 1 remote wire from the hu back to the amps including 4/0 power and ground cables. I plan on running the remote/rca's on the passenger side and the power and ground on the drivers side

I bought these rca's... KnuKonceptz Krystal Twisted Pair 2 Channel Smoke RCA Cable 20ft 6M OFC | eBay but they're as thick as 4/0 wire! My system will consist of 2- 1000 watt 10'' rockford fosgate subs and 4- 90 watt 6.5''watt rockford forget door speakers, 1- 2000 watt mono amp for the subs and 1- 500 watt amp for the door speakers...nothing nearly as crazy as yours lol

Are those rca's overkill? or should I just run normal sized rca's since they won't fit under the floor trim?

I appreciate the viewing :)

If they're that thick, I'd recommend some different ones so you can run it under the carpet/along the door trim pieces, or however you plan to in order to keep them out of site. There is absolutely no reason for an RCA cable to be that thick. I use Sky high car audio triple shielded RCAs with no issues or noise, they're about the size of 8awg wire, and pretty flexible. Others to look into are SounDrive, wccaraudio.com, and Rockford fosgate. The SHCA that I use are probably the cheapest out of those options, but there's no quality issues, so I would recommend them if cost is a selling point. If not, then the SoundDrive and SMD (wccaraudio.com) RCAs are probably built with the best quality, as they're hand built with each order.
 
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reedal

reedal

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Speaker grill molds fit, a little extra room on the outside edges, so I'll probably fill that in when the time comes. Still need to drill mounting holes and glue rings to them. I'm dragging on it.

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Installed my Compustar Dash cam. Quality looks pretty good playing it back on it's small screen, not sure how it comes out yet when it gets stretched on a computer screen. Only thing left is to tap into a constant power source instead of the cigarette adapter that comes with it.

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This was a tight fit. I need to take it back out and take an angle grinder to that mounting bracket for the cross-brace

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And my upgraded body grounds so my HRK5 from Tony Candela will work properly again.

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reedal

reedal

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Here's a quick pic of the kicks I started for the L6's.

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I think I'm going to take that fleece off, and stretch the Lycra that dolarbilz sent to me.

Once I glass them, I'll leave them there while I figure out the placement of the L8's in the doors. If I don't like the combo of the L6/L8 due to T/A issues, or whatever else, then I take the L6's out and put the stock kicks back in place. Simple.
 

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