Rear U joint replacement

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

dkad260

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Posts
368
Reaction score
374
For the rear of a '12 Yukon, are these retained by a clip or are they epoxied?

They look to have clips but the front looks to have epoxy.

Curious if the rears need to be pressed or will a C-clamp work with a large socket.
 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
Joined
Jun 12, 2020
Posts
2,582
Reaction score
6,508
Location
Eastern North Carolina
For the rear of a '12 Yukon, are these retained by a clip or are they epoxied?

They look to have clips but the front looks to have epoxy.

Curious if the rears need to be pressed or will a C-clamp work with a large socket.
You can do it with a socket and a c clamp but it’s a biotch for sure. If you got a buddy or shop with a press it would be much easier to just unbolt it from the yoke pull it out and take it up to the shop.
Last time I tried the c clamp idea it made a 30-45 min job turn into a 4 hour job and had to use the torch to get it broke free granted this was in my 93 Silverado and it had the original u joints.
I got a new set for my 07 Tahoe but the factory ones some how are still holding up good so I threw them in my trunk just incase one were to give out while I was on the road.
 

B-train

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2022
Posts
2,072
Reaction score
3,522
For the rear of a '12 Yukon, are these retained by a clip or are they epoxied?

They look to have clips but the front looks to have epoxy.

Curious if the rears need to be pressed or will a C-clamp work with a large socket.
If you see clips, then that's the way in/out. I'm not sure when the epoxy thing ended, but if memory serves me right almost all the new stuff with aluminum shafts have clips.

If you have a good vice, you can let it hold the yoke loosely (more like a contained rest of sorts). Use a pic to clean up the ring groove, emery cloth the yoke if it's corroded, then use a small amount of oil on your finger to lube the hole.

Once you get the u-joint in the yoke, you can slip the caps in until they are tight by hand. Hold the driveshaft so it's centered and engaging both caps (this keeps the needle bearings in their place). Then tap lightly with a hammer to seat the caps in.

Get one in fully and install the snap ring. Then repeat the other side. If it's too tight after setting it and putting the clip in, use the vice to support the other 2 caps and tap lightly at he yoke weld to back the caps out against the clips. Done this for years. It takes some practice, but works slick.
 

Joseph Garcia

Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Posts
6,839
Reaction score
9,032
^^^x2^^^ Just be VERY careful not to upset the bearings in the cap while you slip it into the yoke. I once had a bearing drop down into the cap once, because I was not careful enough.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,792
Reaction score
33,512
Location
Willamette Valley
If you see clips, then that's the way in/out. I'm not sure when the epoxy thing ended, but if memory serves me right almost all the new stuff with aluminum shafts have clips.

If you have a good vice, you can let it hold the yoke loosely (more like a contained rest of sorts). Use a pic to clean up the ring groove, emery cloth the yoke if it's corroded, then use a small amount of oil on your finger to lube the hole.

Once you get the u-joint in the yoke, you can slip the caps in until they are tight by hand. Hold the driveshaft so it's centered and engaging both caps (this keeps the needle bearings in their place). Then tap lightly with a hammer to seat the caps in.

Get one in fully and install the snap ring. Then repeat the other side. If it's too tight after setting it and putting the clip in, use the vice to support the other 2 caps and tap lightly at he yoke weld to back the caps out against the clips. Done this for years. It takes some practice, but works slick.
Learned these steps years ago and works great. Have to have a steady hand and attention to detail but it works.
 
OP
OP
D

dkad260

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Posts
368
Reaction score
374
Thanks for that info, greatly appreciated.

Could someone verify the part#'s for the front and rear? I assume the top two are for the '12 XL Denali, or the 3rd entry. I have a hard time with a $140 single U-joint lol. There are aftermarket options at half that pricepoint.


Screenshot_20230530-190251_Chrome.jpg
 

Just Fishing

Can't fix stupid
Joined
Aug 30, 2020
Posts
3,570
Reaction score
7,584
Location
Utah
OP
OP
D

dkad260

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Posts
368
Reaction score
374
So it appears the correct GM part # for my rear driveshaft is 89059111. However there's no way I'm paying $140 for one u-joint.

Going to settle with aftermarket, I've never had bad luck with them anyway.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
130,400
Posts
1,831,890
Members
94,014
Latest member
blackVenom
Top