Rear Main

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
1,374
Reaction score
2,551
When you see this, you'll know for sure it's the rear main
Fresh out of the box!
Get it as high as you can on jack stands. If you need an extra 2 inches or so, a couple of 2x6s or a couple pieces of plywood.

I didn't need the strap mine down.... It sits pretty stable. You won't need to completely remove it from under the vehicle. Just roll it back and over to the driver side under the fuel tank.

I usually put about 1.5 quarts of ATF in a new torque converter.

Flex plate install notes... If we're using the bolts, clean the threads with a wire brush. Install finger tight with blue loctite. Install flexplate holding tool in place of the starter. Torque in a Criss-Cross pattern in three stages. 15, 37 and finally 74 foot pounds.
 

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
1,374
Reaction score
2,551
Doesn't look like much but it was about three drips a minute at operating temperature

20240309_153429.jpg
 
OP
OP
solli5pack

solli5pack

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Posts
499
Reaction score
769
Got the transfer case out yesterday and the trans is all prepped up for removal. Just need to pull the bell housing and flywheel bolts. Hockey and beer today then back at it tomorrow after work. I purposely work slow and steady to help prevent stress from fighting with the truck....
1000007969.jpg
1000007971.jpg
 
OP
OP
solli5pack

solli5pack

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Posts
499
Reaction score
769
It actually is better to work slow and take your time. You're less likely to miss something.
Agreed...especially since I'm learning as I go...yesterday I learned stubby ratchets and swivel ratcheting wrenches are very helpful in tight spots!!
 

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
1,374
Reaction score
2,551
Lol, out of all my tools probably the most frequently used is my tiny 3.5 inch long, quarter drive swivel head ratchet.

Make sure you have a 1/2 drive foot-pound torque wrench, and a 1/4 drive inch-pound torque wrench. You'll find there's more than a couple bolts on the LS engine where the torque is measured in inch pounds. While you can convert it to foot pounds in a few cases, it's very small on the foot pound scale.... And difficult to be precise if doing that. (106 inch pounds on those two long rear oil pan bolts)

To a novice, it's easy to skip this vital step and just tighten things down.... I was guilty of that some 45 years ago. There are several reasons for the specific torque. The strength of the bolt, the threads, how deep the threads go, and the material the threads are made of. In an aluminum block, you can strip those threads out quite easily. Additionally, these aren't gaskets like in the old small block Chevy. As you'll see on your oil pan gasket, there's actually a thin raised rubber bead. Over torque and you will split that and have a leak. Not enough torque, you will have a leak. Some assemblies have a shoulder built in to prevent any additional squish. (Think of those intake bolts, probably to prevent cracking the plastic intake) The risk of overdoing it there is stripping the threads out or snapping the bolt.

Bolt threads. You cannot achieve an accurate torque if the bolt threads are not clean. Easiest way is get a hold of a bottom tap.... Which is a thread tap that's not pointed on the end..... Just screw it in and out once or twice, you can blow the hole out with some brake cleaner, or shop vac out any debris. Only takes a couple minutes, but clean and dry is the rule. You should be able to screw your bolts in all the way with two fingers.

You don't have to spend a lot of money on a torque wrench unless you need one professionally. But don't buy the cheap ones made in China.
 
OP
OP
solli5pack

solli5pack

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Posts
499
Reaction score
769
Currently stuck on removing the effing top bell housing bolt. I got the nut off that holds the wire loom on but the bolt is kicking my a**! I've tried swivels, extensions and tried to get a ratcheting wrench up on it. No luck. Any suggestions?
 
OP
OP
solli5pack

solli5pack

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Posts
499
Reaction score
769
Thanks for the tips...I was going to try these out but deep well, maybe I should pull the intake. Im gonna have to get the bolts back in on some point...
1000007977.jpg
 
Last edited:

rdezs

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Posts
1,374
Reaction score
2,551
You can also lower the tail of the transmission a little, which gives you more working room.... But be careful about the intake hitting the firewall. I also use a long extension, I think it's a 24-inch, with the same style sockets as you pictured... Just deeper
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
4,655
Reaction score
5,900
Thanks for the tips...I was going to try these out but deep well, maybe I should pull the intake. Im gonna have to get the bolts back in on some point...
View attachment 459351


those with these and good impact. the sell deep sockets like that too if needed


 
OP
OP
solli5pack

solli5pack

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Posts
499
Reaction score
769
those with these and good impact. the sell deep sockets like that too if needed


Yeah. I'm using these with a deep well socket, it's just a little too long and hitting a sheet metal seam. Trip to the tool store after work tomorrow.
1000007978.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
138,039
Posts
1,997,650
Members
102,975
Latest member
jkhuntzinger

Latest posts

Back
Top