Rear main Seal

[Rocket Man]

I have a craftsman battery powered impact wrench I'm just unable to get it in the space the front diff/frame is in the way if my impact was a little more slim I could do it. I am going to start looking for a compressor today but im not sure about the gallons and psi I will need

Just don’t round off those bolts or you’ll be screwed. In other words, make sure the socket is seated square. They make wobble extensions that allow the socket to be square to the bolt but the extension and ratchet or impact can angle a bit.

 

[lspann3525]

With extension and swivel it kept trying to slide off the bolt I was afraid I would strip it and then the motor kept unlocking..so today I'm going to see if I can pick up earthquake xt and borrow my father's compressor

 

[Rocket Man]

With extension and swivel it kept trying to slide off the bolt I was afraid I would strip it and then the motor kept unlocking..so today I'm going to see if I can pick up earthquake xt and borrow my father's compressor

I wouldn’t use a swivel on an impact myself. A wobble yes but a swivel is too easy for it to slip and you can’t push on it which is what an impact does. That’s my experience anyway.

 

[89Suburban]

With extension and swivel it kept trying to slide off the bolt I was afraid I would strip it and then the motor kept unlocking..so today I'm going to see if I can pick up earthquake xt and borrow my father's compressor

You can't get a box end wrench on it?

 

[lspann3525]

You can't get a box end wrench on it?

yes but im unable to lock the motor using large screwdriver. I went ahead and bought an air ratchet that should make it alot easier

 

[Rocket Man]

If you have Amazon Prime you can get a flywheel locking tool in one day. Just search “ls engine flywheel locking tool”. You would just have to remove it to turn the flexplate if needed to reach all the bolts. I’m not sure what your access looks like, I’ve only done 4l60’s.

 

[lspann3525]

The factory must use loc-tite on them? Here's what I used, see post # 13 here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...7-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-2#post-1291646
from Harbor Freight
View attachment 395994

Well I got them out tonight. dontjetman introduced me to my new gf she helped alot. She got them out in about 10 minutes. Now all I have is the bellhousing bolts left. Will start back maybe tomorrow or later on in the week. That earthquake xt is great little tool. Also picked up a compressor for a little or nothing. Thanks guys for the help.

 

[lspann3525]

Since the transmission is coming out I plan on changing the front and rear seal. On Rockauto I see Torque Converter Seal but on autzone it's called turbine shaft seal. Can someone tell me whats the front transmission seal called and is GM the best brand to use?

 

[donjetman]

I installed the following when doing my RMS:
See post# 24 of this thread:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/page-3
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft oring – GM# 24219390 - $10

 

[Rocket Man]

Isn’t it the torque converter on these trannys that should be replaced also?

 

[donjetman]

Isn’t it the torque converter on these trannys that should be replaced also?

I think so, its all in the link I posted.

 

[lspann3525]

finally got all the bellhousing bolts out, and flexplate bolts out. I was able to wiggle the rear of the trans and it seperated from the motor. Im looking at the rear seal and its sign of a little oil but not much. The area to the left and right of the rear cover appear to be wet. Heres a pic does this look like this could be my oil problem?

 

[89Suburban]

Now I am curious. Has anybody checked if those rear main seal cover bolts came loose like the VLOM bolts? Or perimeter gasket failure compared to the actual rear main seal failure?

 

[Rocket Man]

Now I am curious. Has anybody checked if those rear main seal cover bolts came loose like the VLOM bolts? Or perimeter gasket failure compared to the actual rear main seal failure?

The rear cover has a gasket that can leak for sure. I replace the rear cover and rear main seal as one unit when I have done this. Never heard of the bolts coming loose but I’m sure it’s possible if the proper torque and application of locktite isn’t followed.

 

[lspann3525]

 

[lspann3525]

Well my leak seems to be coming from the bottom of the seal. More than likely it was leaking enough and the flexplate/crank was slinging it around in the bellhousing.

Is it necessary to use the rear cover alignment tool. The kit I have came with a new cover and the seal already installed in it. Most of the videos I have seen the seal is removed to use the alignment tool.

 

[Dave S]

I would say yes but I have never not used it. I figure they make them for a reason and I don’t want to get that far to find out. I bought mine from SacCity Corvette years ago. Looks like there are a lot of other options nowadays.

 

[Rocket Man]

Well my leak seems to be coming from the bottom of the seal. More than likely it was leaking enough and the flexplate/crank was slinging it around in the bellhousing.

Is it necessary to use the rear cover alignment tool. The kit I have came with a new cover and the seal already installed in it. Most of the videos I have seen the seal is removed to use the alignment tool.

No tool needed for the rear cover with the seal already installed in it afaik but there is a specific install procedure for the rear cover that needs to be followed. I suggest paying for a subscription to alldatadiy so you have access to the service manual. You want to make sure you do this right considering you have to pull the trans to get to it. This isn’t something I would be winging it on.

 

[donjetman]

I didn't

 

[lspann3525]

Ok cool I guess ill go that route. Just got the rear cover off to check the rear of the oil pan gasket and look here

This oil gallery plug is sticking out just a tad should it be flush with the block?