Rear Main Seal job, Pan, etc - 07 Yukon Denali 6.2

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iamdub

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Great news, we did a 2000+ mile trip to Leadville, CO(highest US city-10,152') and back. Now I'm pleased with our Yukon. It used zero oil. It doesn't burn or leak any now. The catch can isn't necessary anymore, because it doesn't catch much of anything anymore. What is does catch smells more like gasoline and is watery like gasoline? The Yukon performs good in the snow, and it's comfortable doing the 1000 mile 15 hr non-stop drive each way. I'm happy with my decision to buy this vehicle. Here is a pic of what came out of the catch can after 1200 miles.
View media item 27505

Fan-freakin'-tastic.

Just to recap, the only oil control measure you did was that valve cover?
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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Fan-freakin'-tastic.

Just to recap, the only oil control measure you did was that valve cover?
Yes, that and I put on the deflector on the afm bypass valve, and possibly un-stuck some rings by doing the solvent soak job as described in TSB 10-60-01-008M.

Was it the valve cover? or all 3 things that did the trick?
 

iamdub

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Yes, that and I put on the deflector on the afm bypass valve, and possibly un-stuck some rings by doing the solvent soak job as described in TSB 10-60-01-008M.

Was it the valve cover? or all 3 things that did the trick?

Well, the deflector in the oil pan helps by stopping the high-pressure spray of oil from being a mist and getting sucked out of the crankcase via the PCV system. The valve cover relocates the vent hole away from a splashing oil area. So, I'd say both of those contributed to minimizing the root cause. The stuck rings are a byproduct of the oil burning in the combustion chamber that got there from the aforementioned failure points.

I don't know if I'll do the deflector on mine, at least not right away. If I understand the system correctly, that valve shouldn't operate and cause a mist since I have my AFM disabled in a tune. I'll definitely be replacing the valve cover as I already have it. Just need to find time after the holiday hoopla settles. Mine doesn't consume all that much oil, but it can use some improvement nonetheless. It's invaluable to see such drastic results and I'm grateful for you keeping this so well documented.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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Mine doesn't consume all that much oil, but it can use some improvement nonetheless. It's invaluable to see such drastic results and I'm grateful for you keeping this so well documented.
Had I not seen it for myself, I probably wouldn't believe it. I was hoping for these results, but I would have bet $ against it. I think the new valve cover is $ well spent.
 

iamdub

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...I was hoping for these results, but I would have bet $ against it. I think the new valve cover is $ well spent.

Same here! This is why I'm a bit excited to see that there IS hope!

I'm now even more motivated to swap my valve cover.
 

thompsoj22

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Great news, we did a 2000+ mile trip to Leadville, CO(highest US city-10,152') and back. Now I'm pleased with our Yukon. It used zero oil. It doesn't burn or leak any now. The catch can isn't necessary anymore, because it doesn't catch much of anything anymore. What is does catch smells more like gasoline and is watery like gasoline? The Yukon performs good in the snow, and it's comfortable doing the 1000 mile 15 hr non-stop drive each way. I'm happy with my decision to buy this vehicle. Here is a pic of what came out of the catch can after 1200 miles.
View media item 27505


just a question in regard to the snow, was there ever a situation where the AWD was tested? accellerating from a stop on a incline where it lost traction and the system controlled the wheelspin? i live a couple hours from mammoth and plan to get into some snow this season so just wondering. With your exp would you put the cables on the front or rear wheels if required?
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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just a question in regard to the snow, was there ever a situation where the AWD was tested? accellerating from a stop on a incline where it lost traction and the system controlled the wheelspin? i live a couple hours from mammoth and plan to get into some snow this season so just wondering. With your exp would you put the cables on the front or rear wheels if required?
I don't know what you mean by "tested"? we did normal around town driving on snow plowed roads, nothing deep.
Worked great, no slipping or sliding, its sure footed. No cables for us. The tires are newish Falken Ziex S/TZ05 275/55R20
 

Stimpy911

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Is the oil catch can something you added? The shop just told me I had a small rear main leak. I also want to check the oil pressure switch to make sure that is not leaking instead since o have gad the gauge drop to zero twice now.
50c1b8833c27e3122b9e86f5d18112c2.jpg


Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk
 

Stimpy911

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Sorry, 2010 Yukon XL Denali AWD

Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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Now I get 1 oz every couple of thousand miles in the catch can :)

and it doesn't leak or burn any oil
 

ChuckP33

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I'm currently doing the rare main seal and the oil pan gasket. Along with replacing the oil pump pickup tube gasket, transfer case gasket, oil cooler gasket, and oil pressure relief valve defector. I currently have the oil pan off and about to start working on getting the transmission out. Do I install the oil pan now or what for the transmission to be taken out? Also, in what order do they go back together?
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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Hi Charlie, that was years ago so I'll try to remember? I think I had everything out , oil pan, trans, torque converter, rear main seal cover.

Putting back together, oil pan first, then rear main seal and cover. Post #19 and #23 here in this thread.

Sorry I was slow getting back to you, I've been traveling for 3 days.
 

thompsoj22

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This is one example of a "Tahoe Yukon Forum" Thread that define's how much talent/experience is participating here. This is an amazing group of people offering opinion's, Advice and technical step by step instructions on how to take charge of vehicle maintanance. This forum is soooooo cool!
 

JonnyTahoe

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I'm a DIYer and have my own lift at home.
Day 1
I'm starting the process of changing the rear main seal. While I'm at it I'm gonna:
1) Replace the trans fluid and filter, 2) Install oil pan gasket 3) Replace a leaky trans cooler line, mine has an external cooler, 4) new starter, 5) new alternator, 6) install new oil cooler adapter block off, 7) Installed new improved valve cover # 12570427. I recently installed a catch can. It is collecting an once of oil every 100 miles, NOT GOOD.

It took me half a day to get the 6 nuts off that hold the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds. Lots of PB Blaster, patience, and elbow grease. I borrowed a special socket to get the O2 sensors out.

Here's a link to pictures I've taken on Day 1 of this massive undertaking.
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JonnyTahoe

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Absolutely Rust Free Truck you have from Texas. I have gone down to Texas 3 times in the 90's bringing back Rust free cars. My Yukon is from Richardson Texas two owner Truck with 163k on it when I bought it four years ago. I have had the rear main leak since I have owned it only now have I decided to fix it. I plan on doing it myself for several reasons one being its 2wd so no transfer case to deal with but more importantly I don't trust a shop that I don't know anything about or anything about the guy working on it. Money is not even a issue putting it back together correctly is.
 

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