Oil pan gasket and pickup tube seal replacement

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Erickk120

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I replaced the pan gasket on mine, it was covered in oil, replaced it and it was bone dry in the pan area, then I discovered a new leak. It seems to be coming from the passenger area by the riveted spot. At first I thought it could be the rivet but looking at it, I think its just one of the bolts that go on the side bearing caps thats leaking. Since it only does it in that area and it drips below it. My rear main is a mess though and it needs to be replaced. I might take pics to post in a new thread if I get the honor of doing such a lovely task.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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I replaced the pan gasket on mine, it was covered in oil, replaced it and it was bone dry in the pan area, then I discovered a new leak. It seems to be coming from the passenger area by the riveted spot. At first I thought it could be the rivet but looking at it, I think its just one of the bolts that go on the side bearing caps thats leaking. Since it only does it in that area and it drips below it. My rear main is a mess though and it needs to be replaced. I might take pics to post in a new thread if I get the honor of doing such a lovely task.

Mine had oil in that same location before removing the pan. It also had oil up and inside the bell housing where you remove the flywheel inspection cap. However, up along the flywheel and block where rear main is, is dry as a bone. I'm not sure how that oil got there but wasn't from the rear main seal thank god.

Before you ever do a rear main seal fix, put AT 205 reseal in your crankcase. If there seal is just dried up a bit that will help dramatically. It may fix it all together. I run it as a precaution every couple oil changes.
 

03z71chevy

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I've been following this thread. I've diagnosed my oil pan gasket as leaking for sure. Just want to make sure I get the right gasket and figure out if I should or should not use RTV sealant. Definitely don't want to have to do this twice.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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I've been following this thread. I've diagnosed my oil pan gasket as leaking for sure. Just want to make sure I get the right gasket and figure out if I should or should not use RTV sealant. Definitely don't want to have to do this twice.
I would definately use rtv where the other two covers meet the block, the rear main cover and front timing cover. The RTV goes along their seams. It is debated if that is required, however, rebuild manual calls for RTV along those four seams.

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Matahoe

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I've been following this thread. I've diagnosed my oil pan gasket as leaking for sure. Just want to make sure I get the right gasket and figure out if I should or should not use RTV sealant. Definitely don't want to have to do this twice.

Same thinking here. Just hold on a bit. I can do the research if needed unless someone else wants to take the lead. We need to figure out first if there really is a 5.3 gasket design change for our year. Then we need to know what specific problem is it supposed to fix. I swear I installed my gasket right...but those waffle printed areas on the gasket make me think this wasn't meant for the LM7 engine. Or...as you said...maybe RTV really is an absolute no-no.
 
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Matahoe

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I would definately use rtv where the other two covers meet the block, the rear main cover and front timing cover. The RTV goes along their seams. It is debated if that is required, however, rebuild manual calls for RTV along those four seams.

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Yes...what type of sealant/RTV does GM recommend for the front timing chain and rear main covers? Is it an "anerobic sealant" or RTV? Because they should both be the same as the gaps being filled are similar and right next to each other.
 

Matthew Jeschke

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I think permatex has a compatible version of the AC delco GM stuff. I believe is a high temp selant. But I sprung for ac delco stuff just to be safe.
e565a8b243725627e30a9e90ab94d869.jpg


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Matahoe

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I think its this stuff.

51YSDqfyOZL._AC_SL1500_.jpg




Like I said previously..its like that pipe thread sealant you put on gas pipe thread. Or like the pre-applied stuff you see on sensors ...like the water temp sensor. It's made to fill in a minute gap.

What has me scratching my head is ...why in the heck wouldn't a pan gasket be sufficient to fulfill this task instead of a thin film of this stuff? Wierd.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

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I think its this stuff. Like I said previously..its like that pipe thread sealant you put on gas pipe thread. Or like the pre-applied stuff you see on sensors ...like the water temp sensor. It's made to fill in a minute gap.

What has me scratching my head is ...why in the heck wouldn't a pan gasket be sufficient to fulfill this task instead of a thin film of this stuff? Wierd.

View attachment 218992
Not sure, the gasket appears to be designed with that in mind. However, I just wanted to be careful after reading the instructions you shared. My guess is in hindsight thay the rtv does a better job squeezing up and into the seams than the gasket could.

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Matahoe

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Ah-ha. I found it. We are using the wrong stuff!! The front and rear covers + oil pan use GM 12378190 which has been superseded to 19333512.

Here is a partial install steps for front and rear cover


Front cover
  1. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 inch) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 inch) long to the oil pan to engine block junction.
Rear cover
  1. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 inch) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 inch) long to the oil pan to engine block junction.
And here is the stuff we are supposed to use..

31jFmL+TFzL._AC_SY400_.jpg
 
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Matahoe

Matahoe

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Yeah so it looks like that permatex would work as well.

Now on to check the pan gasket..to see if the original design has been superseded.

Edit: the oil pan gasket is correct.

New part number is 12612350. Thats what I bought and put in. Probably can't source an old one anyway besides eBay.

It's interesting to note that more than a few people on Amazon are reporting leaks after a week or two with the new one. Kind of like what I experienced. Some are also crying foul...complaining of the new gasket being cheaper. Supposedly it is now made from a multi sectional puzzle piece type assembly.
 
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Matahoe

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So maybe not use a GM gasket?

Possibly. More likely I installed it wrong or indeed used the wrong sealant.

Reviews of other aftermarket brand oil pan gaskets seem to have their leak complaints as well. This might suggest installation error...or some type of engineering design oversight. With all the different LS blocks that use this gasket we can pretty much rule that out.

I think what i'll do next is buy a Felpro and Dana (Victor Reinz)...and compare all three.
 
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JonnyTahoe

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The FEL-PRO for your '05 will be P/N; OS30693R This is a Quality Gasket and the price reflects that.
 
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03z71chevy

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That's probably what I am going to go with. Still a month or so away from tackling this project.
 

JonnyTahoe

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So the FEL-PRO gasket with the ACDELCO sealant?
I did not use any sealant. The instructions that came with the gasket said self sealing no sealant required but I should of put some in the corners. If you feel you have to use sealant use it. The correct torque and tightening sequence is very important to a leak free installation. If the front of the oil pan,wire harness and transmission cooler lines are covered in oil and dirt cleaning them first is going to save you having to clean them later. I put my truck up on ramps at a car wash and blasted the entire underside of the truck.
 
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03z71chevy

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Think I'll stick to the instructions like you did. Just wanted to make sure I get everything before I start. I'll add a torque wrench to the list. Good idea with the cleaning. I know it's a real mess under there.
 

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