Oil Capacity Question/Verification

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viven44

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Just a small thing to pay attention to while changing oil and/or checking oil level. Viscous lukewarm oil tends to cling onto surfaces and not drain well.

- A fully hot engine will drain about a 1/4th of a quart more than an engine that hasn’t been warmed up fully
- The corollary to this that a cold engine that was turned off when fully hot will also drain almost the same amount as a fully hot engine, as most of it is in the pan already (although won’t drain as fast from the pan as hot oil)

If the oil change was performed after a 5 min drive, you’ll need about 1/4th of a quart less as it didn’t drain fully
 
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Vladimir2306

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Just a small thing to pay attention to while changing oil and/or checking oil level. Viscous lukewarm oil tends to cling onto surfaces and not drain well.

- A fully hot engine will drain about a 1/4th of a quart more than an engine that hasn’t been warmed up fully
- The corollary to this that a cold engine that was turned off when fully hot will also drain almost the same amount as a fully hot engine, as most of it is in the pan already (although won’t drain as fast)

If the oil change was performed after a 5 min drive, you’ll need about 1/4th of a quart less as it didn’t drain fully
No, the oil drains completely 0-20 in 5 minutes. I checked the oil level immediately after a long trip on the highway, in 5 minutes it drains completely into the sump, and then after 10, then 15 and even 20 minutes, its level no longer changes.
But if you change the oil on a cold engine, for example, at home. After a night of parking, then yes, most likely the oil will drain less than when warmed up. Since I have oil in the service, and always go to it, they change the oil for me warmed up, and the engine includes 8.2-8.3 liters of oil, which is almost 9 quarts.
 

viven44

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Yes when fully hot it drains quickly and fully. Even 10W-40.

When semi warm, it won’t drain into the sump quickly and actually never fully no matter how long you let it sit… some of that viscous oil is held in by surface tension between so many surfaces.
 
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viven44

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With 0W40 in my 6.2l at 1500-3000 RPM my engine pretty much has 45 PSI of oil pressure.

I see this as an issue for sure on the 6.2L. Yes check your neighbors running the 0W-20 and let us know if the PSIs are any different.
 

Scarey

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You always want to change the oil hot. More contaminants in solution. Cold, the contaminants have had time to collect at the bottom of the pan as a kind of sludge and not drain as easily. I just did my first oil change after the free one. I cut the filter open and was very surprised at how light duty the filter is. I’ve cut open allot of filters in other applications and this is by far the lightest filter I’ve seen. This all speaks to doing a hot oil change so you get more contaminants out.
 

PPV_2018

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Out of 100 members here that change their own oil, 2/100 say the capacity is 9 quarts. The other 98 and GM say 8 quarts.

Shopping for new (to me) work trucks a few weeks ago and stumbled across something — something I DID find quite interesting

The underhood picture of on of the silverados i was looking at had “9qt ow20” scribbled in huge block letters on the plastic “beauty” cover…

sQA2gci.jpg


Needless to say, i will not be purchasing that truck.
 

Silverado4x4

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I do, used to work for GM, know a bit about how they operate. I am also not just some DIYer, I made my living in the automotive industry for many years.

If GM engineers were so smart we would not have 600,000 6.2l engines in questions and valve bodies still failing for the same reasons as they have for the past 10 years!
OK if you say so, I guess everything went to $hit after you left. Iam out.
 

GMCnewbee

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Wow, we seem really fixated on this 8 or 9 quart issue. The dipsticks have a range, meaning you are OK within the range. No need to get so precise. 8 is OK, I have checked it myself after a Dealer oil change, and 9 quarts are OK, just puts you at the top of the "range". Chill everybody.

Don't blame everything on the engineers. The designs come into being in Production. Things can be changed that an engineer does not control.
 

Blackcar

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Wow, we seem really fixated on this 8 or 9 quart issue. The dipsticks have a range, meaning you are OK within the range. No need to get so precise. 8 is OK, I have checked it myself after a Dealer oil change, and 9 quarts are OK, just puts you at the top of the "range". Chill everybody.

Don't blame everything on the engineers. The designs come into being in Production. Things can be changed that an engineer does not control.
Does dealer put 9 quarts on work order when you have them change?

I change my own and add 8 start then let set and add more until 3/4 on dip stick probably 1/2 quart or more.
 

GMCnewbee

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Does dealer put 9 quarts on work order when you have them change?

I change my own and add 8 start then let set and add more until 3/4 on dip stick probably 1/2 quart or more.
Yes, Dealer charged me for 8 quarts. We are not yet in a relationship where they will give me a free quart of oil. Still hoping.
 

DuraYuk

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An old rule of thumb was 90% of engine wear occurs during start. Auto start/stop is the dumbest thing ever.
That rule of thumb applies on a cold start when lubricants have not had time to circulate. Again this isn't based on reality.
 

DuraYuk

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I have heard this same crap from many who commented on this thread.

Do you REALIZE that I matched the oil level found in the engine when the vehicle was delivered?

Do you REALIZE I have checked multiple other new vehicles and found the exact same situation?

Do you REALIZE this the level is about 1/8" above the top full mark on the dipstick?

Do you really think that 1/8" above the fill mark the crank will be hitting the oil in the crankcase?

Do you understand this level is well below the windage tray mounted to the bottom of the engine?
I understand what you are trying to do but realistically probably dont need to convince folks how you know better etc. If you want to overkill the engine do so but we dont need you telling everyone else how this is the correct way outside of what the manufacturer recommends.

I too was a gm heavy line tech and there is no way I'm recommending anything to customers or friends outside the scope of the manufacture. You open yourself up to all sorts of liability. And when things go side ways no one is siding with the customer because they did something stupid at the behest of some random person on a forums.

What works for you is great. Share your experience. But dont come here convincing everyone how GM is wrong, engineers are wrong, their eyes are wrong, the dipstick is wrong, the design is wrong, but only you are right.

Just my 2 cents.
 

the 18th letter

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Shutting the vehicle off every time you come to a complete stop is a grand idea, why waste gas in stop and go traffic. Warming a car up and damage being done to engines on start up are no longer applicable to the ways vehicles are produced. Drivers will soon become obsolete as well.
 
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jfoj

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I understand what you are trying to do but realistically probably dont need to convince folks how you know better etc. If you want to overkill the engine do so but we dont need you telling everyone else how this is the correct way outside of what the manufacturer recommends.

I too was a gm heavy line tech and there is no way I'm recommending anything to customers or friends outside the scope of the manufacture. You open yourself up to all sorts of liability. And when things go side ways no one is siding with the customer because they did something stupid at the behest of some random person on a forums.

What works for you is great. Share your experience. But dont come here convincing everyone how GM is wrong, engineers are wrong, their eyes are wrong, the dipstick is wrong, the design is wrong, but only you are right.

Just my 2 cents.
Appreciate your 2 cents, but something is CLEARLY wrong when the manufacturer delivers and engine with an oil level that is "above spec".

I have been in many industries and I have seen many "specs" be wrong, misprints typos and so forth.

GM is not going to be putting in extra oil in millions vehicles, they would not want to spend the money or they could save plenty of money depending on how you look at things.

I do not recommend anything I would not or am not currently doing. What I am suggesting and doing is not going to cause catastrophic failures and damage. Everyone is going to do what they want to do with their vehicle.

I initially asked if anyone else had seen a similar situation and like all good Internet and Forum members I was immediately roasted and continue to roasted. But guess what I not only have thick skin this ain't my first rodeo and I do my homework. Few have actually objectively looked at the situation, they just repeat "spec says". Well if that is how they roll, nothing I can do or say will help them.

But like anything, everyone has their opinions.

I think most would agree the dipstick design sucks and is misleading regardless of what the "spec" states. But at least we still have a dipstick to use, so many of the newer vehicles have no dipstick and you have to rely on an oil level sensor that hopefully works correctly.

We will see if this thread dies, but I am holding by footing on this and I have had other 6.2l owners that I pointed this out to, they did their own oil changes, started out with 8 quarts and using their own eyes and judgement came to the exact same conclusion I did.

But hey, its just an oil change, nothing special!
 

DuraYuk

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Appreciate your 2 cents, but something is CLEARLY wrong when the manufacturer delivers and engine with an oil level that is "above spec".

I have been in many industries and I have seen many "specs" be wrong, misprints typos and so forth.

GM is not going to be putting in extra oil in millions vehicles, they would not want to spend the money or they could save plenty of money depending on how you look at things.

I do not recommend anything I would not or am not currently doing. What I am suggesting and doing is not going to cause catastrophic failures and damage. Everyone is going to do what they want to do with their vehicle.

I initially asked if anyone else had seen a similar situation and like all good Internet and Forum members I was immediately roasted and continue to roasted. But guess what I not only have thick skin this ain't my first rodeo and I do my homework. Few have actually objectively looked at the situation, they just repeat "spec says". Well if that is how they roll, nothing I can do or say will help them.

But like anything, everyone has their opinions.

I think most would agree the dipstick design sucks and is misleading regardless of what the "spec" states. But at least we still have a dipstick to use, so many of the newer vehicles have no dipstick and you have to rely on an oil level sensor that hopefully works correctly.

We will see if this thread dies, but I am holding by footing on this and I have had other 6.2l owners that I pointed this out to, they did their own oil changes, started out with 8 quarts and using their own eyes and judgement came to the exact same conclusion I did.

But hey, its just an oil change, nothing special!
You missed the point.
And if you think the dip stick is hard to read than I will leave it at that.

Even a dry sump that has more oil in it can wreak havoc. And that's a dry sump system.

Like many here I'm done with this conversation. People can read and believe what they want.

Wish you luck on your journey of circumventing manufacturer instructions. Hope it works out.
 
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jfoj

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As I said, everyone will do what they want to do. I matched the oil level my engine was delivered with and I have seen the same level on many of these engines.

1/8" is not and will not wreck havoc on these or most engines.
 

Kpwweb

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@Kpwweb and anyone else reading this thread.

Below is a picture of my dipstick with the oil level at 9 quarts. Notice the oil level is just above the top line above the hash marks, maybe 1/8" tops. Matches the same level I found my oil level in the engine when I received the vehicle with 8 miles on it and the same as 2 - 2025 6.2l Yukon that had 7 and 40 miles on them. Other members have seen the same situation.

I had to wait until the oil had some color so you can see the oil easier. Have about 2000 miles since the last oil change and the color is still very light.

Notice how heavy the oil is in the hash marks, it needs to be this way, as I mentioned in the picture that Kpwweb posted above, his oil level is about 2/3 low on the has marks. It is not that oil has flowed to the bottom of the dipstick. The oil must have a thickness as seen in the picture below, This is why there is plenty of confusion of the oil level in these engines.

Take your dipstick and dip it in some used oil 1/2 way up the hash marks and look at it, then do the same at the top of above the hash marks and see what it looks like.

You guys do what you think you want to do, I am running 9 quarts with filter change as are my 2 neighbors with their 2025 as they saw the same oil level in their engines at time of delivery. I am sure I will have PLENTY of "you overfilled your crankcase, the crank will aerate the oil and you will have a crankcase full of foam". Well not the case, I have run 9 quarts of oil for the past 7500 miles and never have I had any problems with foam, oil leaks, oil consumption or any other negative effects. If 1/8" above the top full mark has the crankshaft frothing the engine oil below the windage tray we have bigger problems. I could probably put 1-2 more quarts in the engine before the level would be anywhere near the crankshaft.

For everyone else, enjoy running your engine chronically low on oil.

View attachment 457036
I checked my oil yesterday and it is at the upper mark. The “hash marks” are totally saturated. That is with 8 quarts. No more, no less. It is NOT 2/3 the way down.
 

Antonm

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I have heard this same crap from many who commented on this thread.

Do you REALIZE that I matched the oil level found in the engine when the vehicle was delivered?

Do you REALIZEI have checked multiple other new vehicles and found the exact same situation?

Do you REALIZE this the level is about 1/8" above the top full mark on the dipstick?

Do you really think that 1/8" above the fill mark the crank will be hitting the oil in the crankcase?

Do you understand this level is well below the windage tray mounted to the bottom of the engine?

Do you REALIZE.... that you are assuming the meth head that took the plastic off the seats for the dealership (and did the rest of the vehicle pre-delivery) didn't top off the oil or otherwise mess with it and that your oil level as delivered was the "perfect" level.

This whole thread is ridiculous ,,, these engines take 8 quarts,,, yours is not special, it takes 8 quarts too.

I suppose the argument could be made that overfilling the engine (which is what you are doing) is not determinantal until you reach the point of crankshaft windage/ oil aeration, but that is a different discussion than what this thread topic says.
...
 
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jfoj

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Do you REALIZE.... that you are assuming the meth head that took the plastic off the seats for the dealership (and did the rest of the vehicle pre-delivery) didn't top off the oil or otherwise mess with it and that your oil level as delivered was the "perfect" level.

This whole thread is ridiculous ,,, these engines take 8 quarts,,, yours is not special, it takes 8 quarts too.

I suppose the argument could be made that overfilling the engine (which is what you are doing) is not determinantal until you reach the point of crankshaft windage/ oil aeration, but that is a different discussion than what this thread topic says.
...
Funny how the same Meth Head topped up the oil on vehicles at dealerships in 3 different states!
 

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