My 2011 Escalade Build Thread!!

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NORCAL SS

NORCAL SS

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Wait I'm sorry why does it need to towed to get them installed?

my buddys dealership is abotu 70 miles away from me. I have 100 mile towing so going to have them tow it back to me also. Lot less gas lol
 

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Makes sense. Just seemed like a hassle but I understand the money saving side.
 
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they are going to bleed the abs unit with the tech 2 and bleed the brake system since I put the wilwoods on. I didnt have a issue but hey you never know if there might be air in the sytem.

also dropping the pan and doing a filter change/refil on trans

bad side ill get truck back on friday since the gears they sent the wrong ones 3.42s so I wont be able to dyno the 11th but rescheduled the 20th. Just in time to go to the track the 24th.
 

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I was always wondering how people installed the wilwoods with no tech 2 because I disconnected my brake lines and had to tow it to the dealership myself on a trailer attached to my moms caddy
 
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NORCAL SS

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as long as master cylinder doesn't go dry you will be fine. Also i bleed the ones I do a week after and a month after use. Ive had them on for about 6 months and since dealer had it might as well do it one last time.
 

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Ever since all my brake fluid drained out my brake pedal has been very spongy compared to how it used to feel but yet I still can stop on a dime I can't figure out why my pedal feels like this do you have any ideas?
 
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did you drain the system?
was there a leak?

If master cylinder went dry most likely you got air in abs unit and have to bleed it with tech 2
 

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I'm just an idiot and let it run dry in my driveway while I stuffed my face and then I filled it back up and low and behold I can't bleed my own brakes and that lead to me towing it. Idk what all they bled just that it went from no brakes to spongy brakes. So maybe I take it up there and ask them to bleed the master cylinder and the abs unit?
 
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yes you will need them to use the tech 2 to bleed abs unit. As soon as that ****** goes dry you need the tech 2.


trust me once you do that it will feel 10x better its like you have a ****** on now and then you take it of that's how much of a difference it will feel like lol
 
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project will be changing directions. Im going to do a before/after on the manifold to see how much it makes.
 
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im doing a complete step by step set up different mods and power-1/4 mile times. Blower will come after I do the bolt ons and get times down. Kinda focusing on making most power with bolt ons and then moving onto blower.

On performance trucks guy running the whipple with more boost and headers is only in the high 12s. If this truck runs mid 13s without blower not really worth it to me to spend 6500 bucks to only run 1/2 to 3/4 faster but I know a 100 shot would be a killer set up.

My trailblazer ss went 11.9s on a 50 shot with only intake/tune/magnaflow muffler and 3600 converter BEST OF ALL street races were perfect total sleeper when you look under the hood got a lot of victims
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Lets hear some street race stories...

my truck went 11.39@120 and on the street it hooked on 325 45 17 mt drag radials. beat vetts 2 vipers a supra many cobra mustangs/camaros/corvettes. The truck is not a roll race car as you can see by the low mph (my ctsv went 11.3@94 on the brakes) but out the hole people wouldn' have enough time to catch up. Evos and stis were a good race since they hook out the hole.

Here was with the old cam on a 100 shot went 7.35 in this video in the 1/8 which is mid 11s. When i stepped up to a 125 shot went 7.22/11.39@120

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkfYevPXPQk


Here was the new cam put in before I sold it made more power and I also added heads. Truck prob would be in the 10.9-11.0 range for sure
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECKR-KNQ1fY&list=UUJwwnNFdE_AlBC4HTW71WDg&index=7&feature=plcp

MY Drag set up (like the valve stem :))

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Here is a pic from pinks all out when it was running 11.60s look at left front tire looks like a little off ground
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