My 1998 2-door build is done - Pics, impressions (and need some input)

[Upper tanker]

If you have a scanner, see what the coolant temperature sensor is reporting. It’s the one by the thermostat.

It should be reading close to ambient when cold and around the thermostat setpoint when hot. If it is reporting some real oddball temperature, the sensor may be flaking out and fooling the computer into calling for too much fuel when starting.

Holding the gas to the floor while cranking is sometimes a remedy as this puts it into “clear flood” mode, temporarily stopping injector flow.



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I do have a scanner, but not with me. I do have one of the Bluetooth OBD2 things that I could check it with. I paid the extra money for all of the extra PIDs. So, that would just be the engine temperature, correct?

 

[east302]

Correct, you’re looking for the temperature that is being reported to the VCM. It’s the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.


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[Toomanyhobbies]

Mine is still at the shop getting the hydro boost rebuilt and the steering work done. I am still throwing codes from the right side O2 and the new MAP sensor on occasion. I ordered replacements for both. I used AC delco O2's on both sides and one was DOA and the other has spotty readings and throws codes. I replaced DOA with an NGK and it performs well so I am doing the same on the other side (love putting Japanese parts on my American truck but what I am I supposed to do).

I think I need a 3 bar MAP since the manifold pressure registers up to 14.7 or right around 2 bar.

My cold start issue is really only at "cold" start so totally different problem than you are experiencing. How does your motor pull in the 2000-2800 range with that cam?

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

My mechanic did not want to install the U joint on the steering shaft, because he was afraid he would destroy the shaft, which I can understand. When I went back and looked at the procedure it is a big job.

So I ordered a urethane doughnut from an ebay seller to put in in place of the original rag joint. When I pick the truck up next week I will report back on the steering improvement.

 

[Rocket Man]

Damn that's clean. Nice work!

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

So as an update I got the booster rebuilt and got a HEIGHT's adjustable power steering valve added by my mechanic. The valve is ok, I have it on max open and my steering now feels like it has about the same resistance as my GMT800.

This week I replaced my other AC Delco O2 sensor with an NGK and put in a 3 bar MAP sensor. Cold start issue is 90% better but now I may have a little stutter when I floor it from stop haven't driven it enough to be sure. Overall is runs better though.

I also added the rag joint disk from unbalanced engineering as it turns out I had the small size joint. That job is a PIA getting the rivets out if the joint is fairly awful if you don't have a drill press. I have done all you can do to the steering, redhead box, adjustable valve and metal rag joint donut. It drives really great.

I am going to add a rear sway bar next, but I finally got my 1972 Cutlass back and have a million things to do there as well.

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

I haven't really had time to do much to the truck and it's basically rained every day for the last month so I have hardly taken her out of the garage. I had it out today and this steering setup is not yet perfect. The steering basically loses power assist when I am at idle, making it hard to parallel park without driving with two feet, which is not a great option.

So I thought maybe a solution would be to put a little bit smaller pulley on the power steering pump. This would bring the pressure up a little bit at idle, no? I have the heidt's valve all the way open, and the steering resistance at speed is fine, I just lose power assist at idle.

Thoughts?

Rear sway will be next big project, but I have so many things to do to the Olds first.

 

[Rocket Man]

I’d say it sure as hell is worth a try. It makes sense too.

 

[Wedge]

That truck is so clean !! Great job !!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Love your truck. Super clean. Doing a great job on the 'ol girl too.

 

[homesick]

If you don't mind me backing up a bit here, I'm curious about your seats. Do you have pictures of them installed? What did you have to do to install them in your truck (mine's a '95)?

Thanks,
joe

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

If you don't mind me backing up a bit here, I'm curious about your seats. Do you have pictures of them installed? What did you have to do to install them in your truck (mine's a '95)?

Thanks,
joe

Here's a shot of the driver's seat. The GMT900 seats are mounted on the original seat frames. I didn't do this work so I can't say what was involved, and it's not possible to take a decent picture of it, but as far as I can tell the most the upholstery guy had to do was drill a few holes in the steel runners under the seats to mount them to the old frames. And for another $500, he was able to install seat heaters and put the switches and a USB cord in the dash where the CD player used to be.

Hope this helps



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[Squirrelsmith]

I had been wondering where i would put the switches when i decided to add heat to my seats

 

[homesick]

Here's a shot of the driver's seat. The GMT900 seats are mounted on the original seat frames. I didn't do this work so I can't say what was involved, and it's not possible to take a decent picture of it, but as far as I can tell the most the upholstery guy had to do was drill a few holes in the steel runners under the seats to mount them to the old frames. And for another $500, he was able to install seat heaters and put the switches and a USB cord in the dash where the CD player used to be.

Hope this helps

It does. Thanks.

joe


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[bowtieman55]

The ebay LED interior light kit is a really great inexpensive touch for our trucks FYI. Really makes it feel more modern.

You seem like a bit of a stickler for quality and such; which kit should I be looking for on eBay?

 

[Toomanyhobbies]

Yes and no. I think when it comes to stuff like that it's all coming out of the same factory in China. If you do the LED's just remember they are polarity sensitive I kind of freaked when I put them in and only a few worked...

When it comes to other stuff, like shocks for example, I don't understand why people will skimp on Bilstiens to save $20/shock. Take $80 am divide it by $50k miles and it's kind of hard to justify.

Latest update is my brand new right rear axle seal blew out on thanksgiving and I am hoping I didn't hurt the rear by driving it that way for 50 miles. I didn't realize until I got home.

I am in need of a rear armrest for the driver's side in neutral, the glue failed on mine and the vinyl peeled up. Hard part to find. I epoxied it and it looks ok for now.

Starting to explore the idea of a 0411 computer swap as I may want to start working on tuning. That is a way cheaper option than pulling the cam and pulling a different one in.



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[Toomanyhobbies]

Latest update is the right rear axle was broken when I sent it back to the shop. Doing new axles on both sides with upgraded parts. Also while is is apart I decided to do a trutrack. The G80 in my 2004 is trashed and operates as an open rear and has similar mileage to this one so it seems like the right thing to do, especially since the increased engine output is breaking parts in the rear.

Mechanic is doing the small pulley while it's there I haven't had much motivation to do any wrenching anyway with the freezing weather we've had. I will report back on how that works.

New hydroboost is in so hopefully that's the end of the leaking.

 

[3dirtwheels]

Great thread on a super sweet Tahoe, I'd be interested in how the small pulley worked out, my PS doesn't work all of the time below 600-700 rmp's on my new HT383E, it's a pain parking and drive thru's!